Splinter Posted March 22, 2011 Author Share Posted March 22, 2011 On the offchance that anyone cares, it was the pickup coil. Just tested it with a multimeter, 680ohms from wire to wire and the yellow wire is grounded to the body. Weird that it would just suddenly fail like that though... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted March 22, 2011 Share Posted March 22, 2011 Jumpy tach usually is because the disty bushings are worn and the shaft is wobbling around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Splinter Posted March 23, 2011 Author Share Posted March 23, 2011 Jumpy tach usually is because the disty bushings are worn and the shaft is wobbling around. How much can the shaft wobble around when the car isn't running? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Idasho Posted March 23, 2011 Share Posted March 23, 2011 Pull the cap off, and remove the rotor. Then grab the distributor shaft, and see if it has any side to side play. Any play more than VERY slight should warrant a dizzy replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Splinter Posted March 23, 2011 Author Share Posted March 23, 2011 Guys, the car doesn't run. At all. The tach moves with the engine SHUT OFF. How can the shaft possibly be moving around causing the tach to bounce when the motor isn't turning? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted March 23, 2011 Share Posted March 23, 2011 (edited) Guys, the car doesn't run. At all. The tach moves with the engine SHUT OFF. How can the shaft possibly be moving around causing the tach to bounce when the motor isn't turning? someething with the alternator or charge system failed. I had a alternator voltage regulator go bad, and a turn of the key would send the tach needle to like 3000 room without even kicking the starter on. Wipers would move around, even though the switch for them was off.... Edited March 23, 2011 by bheinen74 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Splinter Posted March 23, 2011 Author Share Posted March 23, 2011 (edited) someething with the alternator or charge system failed. I had a alternator voltage regulator go bad, and a turn of the key would send the tach needle to like 3000 room without even kicking the starter on. Wipers would move around, even though the switch for them was off.... It's a single wire alternator, reg doesn't even see the rest of the car. I tried unhooking it, didn't change anything. Unhooked the dizzy, no more tach bounching It failed an ohm test, it's grounded to the casing, I'm fairly confident it's the dizzy pickup coil at this point Edited March 23, 2011 by Splinter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Splinter Posted March 28, 2011 Author Share Posted March 28, 2011 New dizzy solved it! Whats more, it passed inspection! Wooooii I can drive it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Razorthirty Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 New dizzy solved it! Whats more, it passed inspection! Wooooii I can drive it! Congrats, long road to get there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Splinter Posted July 14, 2011 Author Share Posted July 14, 2011 Just picked up a free 87 EA81 3 door (back end totally rusted out, been sitting for 5 years, not savable) Time for a manual transmission swap, a new cowl and new front right fender! yay! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tundrabrat Posted July 14, 2011 Share Posted July 14, 2011 where in alaska did this come from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Splinter Posted July 14, 2011 Author Share Posted July 14, 2011 ketchikan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tundrabrat Posted July 15, 2011 Share Posted July 15, 2011 Ah... Right on the ocean and lots of rain. Poor Brat, never had a chance. ): Looks like it's coming along good though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Splinter Posted July 16, 2011 Author Share Posted July 16, 2011 Yea, the only reason it survived at all was it was mostly garage kept. So I'm having some pretty weird electrical problems. The lowbeams on the car work normally, but when you put the high beams on each bulb only sees 6 volts instead of twelve so they're super dim (confirmed with a multimeter) Also, on the right side only, there's some significant problems with the tail lights. With the lights on and the indicator on, the indicator and brake light alternate flashing, same if you put the reverse lights on. With the other lights off, it just flashes very fast and dim. The only ground I could seem to find was in the bed just behind one of the access panels. I cleaned it up and it didn't seem to make a difference. I've been searching for an answer for a few days so far and been pouring over the wiring diagrams but so far nothing. Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomRhere Posted July 16, 2011 Share Posted July 16, 2011 There is a wiring connector behind that rearmost panel, check to see if there is any corrosion there. It is the last connection before you get to where the wiring harness splits to go across the back of the BRAT to feed the Driver's side lights. Bad ground for the rear lighting can cause all sorts of wierd lighting issues. Yea, the only reason it survived at all was it was mostly garage kept. So I'm having some pretty weird electrical problems. The lowbeams on the car work normally, but when you put the high beams on each bulb only sees 6 volts instead of twelve so they're super dim (confirmed with a multimeter) Also, on the right side only, there's some significant problems with the tail lights. With the lights on and the indicator on, the indicator and brake light alternate flashing, same if you put the reverse lights on. With the other lights off, it just flashes very fast and dim. The only ground I could seem to find was in the bed just behind one of the access panels. I cleaned it up and it didn't seem to make a difference. I've been searching for an answer for a few days so far and been pouring over the wiring diagrams but so far nothing. Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Splinter Posted July 31, 2011 Author Share Posted July 31, 2011 Cleaning that ground helped some, thanks. Still some weirdness with the flasher speed but at least people can see I'm indicating now thanks. On another front, here's the parts car I was given: 3 hours pass... Monday we pull it out of there to remove the powertrain. Unfortunately I didn't notice the damage on the passenger side fender before, which is the same fender that's damaged on my brat. Damn. Oh well, I still got lots of good parts like a non-rusty cowl, shiny wiper arms and a 4MT swap! The round headlight it only there because the front end was gone and the previous owner was using it as a bush vehicle and needed something for a headlight. The passenger side under the door almost collapsed when I sat on it due to rust. Yikes. This car was a gonner for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Splinter Posted August 3, 2011 Author Share Posted August 3, 2011 Managed to get myself a brand new clutch cable, so as soon as I put new seals in the trans and I'd like to sort out a new shifter bushing, I'll be ready to do the swap! Stoked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigjimd Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 Yowza! Everyone should have a cherry picker in the back yard. I'm jealous. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Splinter Posted August 14, 2011 Author Share Posted August 14, 2011 Monday I'll worry the fenders until I can turn the steering wheel in a full arc. The backs wheels SEEM fine, have to see how they respond to actually driving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flowmastered87GL Posted August 14, 2011 Share Posted August 14, 2011 Those rears look really close.... like if you hit the brakes or took a jump and the rear suspension travelled down it could hit the front of the wheel well/fender. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Splinter Posted August 14, 2011 Author Share Posted August 14, 2011 Yea I think I'm going to put a little more juice into the torsion bar (It's still got lots left, and I have a spare if I break it) and give some abuse in a controlled environment to make sure it's all ok before I drive it on the street. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Splinter Posted June 13, 2012 Author Share Posted June 13, 2012 Been a little while since I posted anything about my brat here... Some big changes in the works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratman18 Posted June 13, 2012 Share Posted June 13, 2012 (edited) What are those brakes?! Damn! Edited June 14, 2012 by bratman18 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Splinter Posted June 13, 2012 Author Share Posted June 13, 2012 What are those breaks?! Damn! 98 Chevy K1500 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mechanical_misfit Posted June 14, 2012 Share Posted June 14, 2012 98 Chevy K1500 What? what are you doing with your front axles? This should be interesting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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