juneballoon Posted March 13, 2010 Share Posted March 13, 2010 Hey. im a tech working on my buddys 97 legacy awd 2.2. He is having a problem with a lot of play in the shifter (5 speed standard transmission). even when the car is shifted into gear you can still wobble the shifter back and forth as if it were in neutral. i went underneath the car and it looks like the shift linkage bushings are shot. in order to get to them i need to take down the linkage and in order to do that i need to knock out the roll pin on the gear selector shaft coming out of the trans. is there an easy way to do this without having to drop the cross member and tranny mounts or is it as dificult as i think to do the job. also it looks like the drive shaft might get in the way once i get under there. after all this bull sh*t i hope that solves the problem. if any one can give me advice on an easy way to pull the linkage please let me know. im new to the subaru scene and i just want to fix my boys car so i can get paid. THE RECESSION IS KICKING MY rump roast!!! thanks for your help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 13, 2010 Share Posted March 13, 2010 You probably will have to drop the cross-member but it's only a few bolts. No big deal really. Driveline is similar - couple bolts and it comes down and slips out of the tranny. Once everything is out of the way just unbolt the sections where you need to replace the bushings and swap in new one's. You shouldn't have to remove the roll-pinned adaptor from the shift rod. Not as far as I can remember. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juneballoon Posted March 13, 2010 Author Share Posted March 13, 2010 the bushings on the adaptor side are shot too. i gotta replace all 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 13, 2010 Share Posted March 13, 2010 There's actually 8 peices total - two rubber and two nylon for each bushing. But you should be able to remove the linkage rod and replace the bushings without removeing the pinned adaptor from the transmission. Unless you can't slide the bolt out due to the clearance. If that's the case drive out the roll pins. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 14, 2010 Share Posted March 14, 2010 On some models the linkage has a dowel hammered into it that can't be removed without removing the entire linkage from the car. But even if it were a bolt, there's just no room to get it out. I ended up having to use an air hammer to get the large roll pin out to remove the linkage from the transmission. Subaru sells the whole thing for like $45 or something. But if you get the right size bushings. and the correct size bolt you can grind off the end of the dowel pin, knock it out, and drill out the smaller hole in the bracket to fit a bolt through. Just get the proper sized bushings and you can fix it for like $15. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juneballoon Posted March 15, 2010 Author Share Posted March 15, 2010 yea one bushing has a bolt and the other one has the dowel pin. since im doing this job at the customers house and not at a shop i dont have access to an air-hammer or a lift. im just gonna jack it up, drop the cross member, disconnect the linkage and as far as the roll pin goes im just gonna drill the whole thing out, slide it off the shaft and replace it with all junkyard parts. when i have to slide the adaptor or "boss" as its called by alldata back onto the gear selector shaft i will just drill it out as well and slide a bolt through it. thanks for the advice guys... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted March 15, 2010 Share Posted March 15, 2010 It's tricky, but there should definately be access to unbolt the linkage from trans. Unbolt the large round end of the stationary rod and swing it down out of the way for extra access. YOU DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE THE PINNED END FROM THE TRANS 12mm Gearwrench and 12mm socket with extensions are your friends for this one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted March 15, 2010 Share Posted March 15, 2010 you will only need to remove the pins if you are replacing the shifter shaft seal. if you drop the driveshaft it will make it a lot easier. be prepared to catch some fluid. i recommend draining out the fluid before doing the work, and changing with new when you are done. if you remove the dogbone on the top of the trans, you can get the whole thing to drop down enough for easy access. its really not a whole lot to unbolt altogether. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juneballoon Posted March 15, 2010 Author Share Posted March 15, 2010 i need to replace both sets of bushings in the adaptor. one set i can get to by removing the 12 mm bolt and nut (that one is on the linkage side of the adaptor) The other set of bushings is on the trans side of the adaptor. in order to replace them i need to remove the dowel pin which i believe needs to be pressed out or cut. in order to do that im going to need to remove the whole adaptor and in order to do that i need to remove it from the gear shaft. im going to the guys house to look at it now. ill let you guys know exactly what happens when i get back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 15, 2010 Share Posted March 15, 2010 (edited) YOU DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE THE PINNED END FROM THE TRANS You do if the bushings are shot. Mine were. The two that were on that dowel pin were practically gone. This is similar to what he has. Just put a new roll pin in place of the old one. I tried the use a bolt method. I had to re tighten it about once a week. The shifter would start to feel loose, not as bad as it had been, but bad enough, so I would tighten it up some more. Broke one bolt trying to get it tighter, and then stretched another. I just finally broke down and put another roll pin in it. No more slop for 2 months now. Also be sure to use new lock nuts on any bolts you replace. You don't need one of those bolts falling out and leaving you or your friend stuck in 4th gear on a busy street. Funny story... not really Edited March 15, 2010 by Fairtax4me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juneballoon Posted March 15, 2010 Author Share Posted March 15, 2010 yes thats exactly the piece!!! i took everything apart which wasnt as much as i expected, disconnected all the linkage, knocked the roll pin out (2 roll pins actually, a small one inside a bigger one) and now the new problem. i cant bang that damn thing off the shaft. i ended up getting that whole piece in the picture shown above except i cant get the old one off. i wish i was at the shop so i could hit it with the torch and air chisel. i spent a good 2 hours hitting the thing with a 3 pound sledge and it didnt budge an inch. has anyone ever tried using the little crappy hand held propane torches they sell at like autozone? do those get hot enough to heat this thing up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 16, 2010 Share Posted March 16, 2010 You can't get it off the transmission? Did you try twisting it with some pliers? Might have to soak it with PB and wait a day. I wouldn't heat it up. That would probably cook the shaft seal, which isn't expensive, but it's a royal pita to replace with the transmission still in the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doc526 Posted March 16, 2010 Share Posted March 16, 2010 Fairtax4me, would you happen to know the part number for that piece. I have the same problem with worn out bushings. :-\ Thanks, Dean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 16, 2010 Share Posted March 16, 2010 I don't have a part number for it. You can call a dealer with your VIN and they can look up what you need. Or you can probably send an email to the guys at 1stsubaruparts.com and see if they can help you. The problem is there were a couple different designs, and if you get the wrong one it won't work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doc526 Posted March 16, 2010 Share Posted March 16, 2010 That is good to know. Thanks for the prompt reply. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juneballoon Posted March 17, 2010 Author Share Posted March 17, 2010 hit it with the torch for a minute being careful not to let too much heat transfer down the shaft. jammed a screw driver up in there and was able to twist the bastard about a centimeter. i kept twisting it back and forth until it got a little bit looser and after another half hour of hitting it with a 3 pound sledge it finally came off. job complete... thanks guys!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 You do if the bushings are shot. Mine were. The two that were on that dowel pin were practically gone. This is similar to what he has. Just put a new roll pin in place of the old one. I tried the use a bolt method. I had to re tighten it about once a week. The shifter would start to feel loose, not as bad as it had been, but bad enough, so I would tighten it up some more. Broke one bolt trying to get it tighter, and then stretched another. I just finally broke down and put another roll pin in it. No more slop for 2 months now. Also be sure to use new lock nuts on any bolts you replace. You don't need one of those bolts falling out and leaving you or your friend stuck in 4th gear on a busy street. Funny story... not really Do you have the part number for that part in the picture? *edit just noticed you said you don't have it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 Nope. I don't remember where I borrowed that pic from now. I think the part number was posted in the writeup though. I wanna say it was on scoobymods.com. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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