DaveAP Posted March 14, 2010 Share Posted March 14, 2010 87 brat Well I am back to fixing the sloppy shifter. Can't get reverse... MY last fix involved using a bolt with brass ferriles (sp?) as washers. I had to use a cutting wheel to get the bolt out as the ferrile was stuck in the thread of the bolt. General Disorder posted a thread a while ago saying he tapped a thread into the hole and threaded a bolt thru and a nut as well to finish it off. Have any of you tried that and how has it turned out? thanks.dp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 14, 2010 Share Posted March 14, 2010 This is my latest fix. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=846007&postcount=3 My '83 hatch which is a daily has just the primary bolt and lock nut and it's still great - about 2" of play while in gear but I have never got around to replaceing the rubber bushings, etc on it. It's been that way for a couple years now. I've done one other for a member here and it worked great till he ripped out the 4 speed for a 5. My lifted wagon with the above referenced fix - where I tapped not only the primary hole but also a second locking bolt at an angle to the primary - it is amazing - it feels like I would imagine they must have felt when still new off the lot GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted March 14, 2010 Share Posted March 14, 2010 works awesome........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatchsub Posted March 14, 2010 Share Posted March 14, 2010 I had to pop the two pins out to remove the shifter fork when i resealed the back of my trans and i did GDs trick (even though i didnt have play to begin with). I had butchered the roll pins getting them out so there was no reusing them. Works great so far and there really is no way for it to loosen up if you do it his way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twitch de la Brat Posted March 15, 2010 Share Posted March 15, 2010 Or you could just put in a 5sp D/R... But the above mentioned fix by GD, was used on a tranny Monstaru gave me, and it was AMAZING compared to what I had been dealing with on the stock tranny. The stock had about 5 inches of travel, in gear, if not more. Twitch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveAP Posted March 28, 2010 Author Share Posted March 28, 2010 Well I finally got around to fixing the slop. I just bought a new 5/16th bolt, and also replaced the bushings , sleeve, and the bushing that fits on the bottom of the shifter. The bushing on the bottom of the shifter was missing so putting one in there made a huge difference. I also have cut a slot on each side of the housing. It is hugely improved. Should have done it a long time ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted March 29, 2010 Share Posted March 29, 2010 (edited) this thread needs "sloppy seconds" lolhope you got it fixed. yeahm on mine i also read the posts to thread in a bolt. Also, same on mine, the bottom bushings was gone too. The bottom bushing is the problem not the above pins. We need to sticky the real fix is the bushingm not driving out the pin and threading in a bolt. Mine was tight as heck on the pin. I recommend ALL on the board with sloppy shifter to check the bushing on bottom first. I am positive we need to sticky this. And again if you search others confirm, so if you read this board, replace the bottom busing first if you have shifter slop. Edited March 29, 2010 by bheinen74 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 29, 2010 Share Posted March 29, 2010 And again if you search others confirm, so if you read this board, replace the bottom busing first if you have shifter slop. How many 4 speed D/R transmission's have you owned? I've lost count on my end. The donut on the pivot of the shifter usually does need to be replaced, but that's not the "problem" area for most of them. The shift rod and sleeve looseness problem has been around since before I became a member here. Many articles and pictures of it have been done - it's VERY well known and documented. Many different methods have been tried to eliminate it. So far I've had the most success by threading the holes. Replacing the bushings and the pivot donut are obvious and we have all done that as well. If it were that simple no one would even be talking about it on here. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveAP Posted March 31, 2010 Author Share Posted March 31, 2010 How many 4 speed D/R transmission's have you owned? I've lost count on my end. The donut on the pivot of the shifter usually does need to be replaced, but that's not the "problem" area for most of them. The shift rod and sleeve looseness problem has been around since before I became a member here. Many articles and pictures of it have been done - it's VERY well known and documented. Many different methods have been tried to eliminate it. So far I've had the most success by threading the holes. Replacing the bushings and the pivot donut are obvious and we have all done that as well. If it were that simple no one would even be talking about it on here. GD Gentlemen, thanks for commenting...advising. As can be seen there are a few ways to improve the slop. I posted the final comment in the thought to let others not so well versed know what our options are. Sometimes it is just as helpful to average to the lowest denominator of advice,as not all were born subaru mechanical geniuses. dp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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