EA82 Timing-Belts...jumped time...?

[Loyale93v]

Hoping Someone can shed some light here...

 

1993 Loyale EA82 1.8L 2WD.

2 weeks ago I replaced the water pump and the Timing - Belts.

Everything seemed to be working great. The tension seemed correct.

Saturday the engine "jumped Time!"

So I pulled it back apart. And found the Left side belt(drivers side) to be off by about one tooth. The problem could only be the Tensioner or the Idler Pulley...right?

Are these components something I should of replaced the first time around?

I removed the Idler Pulley and found that the Pulley is rubbing against the inside plastic Timing Cover. But when spinning the Idler by hand it seems smooth...?

What is the proper way to put tension on the Belt? It seems self-explanitory...Am I missing something?

I read on ALLDATA & Mitchell-OnDemand5 that there is a procedure to measure Tensioner Squareness. Does anyone know of this Procedure and how to do it properly?

 

Should I just stop wasting my time and replace both components so I won't be doing this again in another two weeks?

Edited March 15, 2010 by Loyale93v

[Loyale93v]

nobody has an idea?...really?

[Nug]

Once the belts are on, you should be able to twist them 90 degrees, this is a general guidance given on many different timing belts. If your idlers seem misaligned, I would replace them.

[MilesFox]

this is my method:

 

once i install the belt, i grab the cam pulley and turn it by hand to take the slack out of the driven side of the belt(opposite of the tensioner, and i grab the tensioner and pull it up to hold the slack till its tightened down.

 

be sure that the tensioner are bolted down, they are not spring loaded to hold the belt. the spring is just there to snap the pulley in place before TIGHTENING it up

 

you will notice holes on the face of the cam pulleys. there is a special spanner tool you can pick up for this. its easy enough to make one if you get the idea.

 

i have seen slack belts on running cars. you can always re-tighten the slack after the belt installation after the car has run on them for a while.

[Loyale93v]

this is my method:

 

once i install the belt, i grab the cam pulley and turn it by hand to take the slack out of the driven side of the belt(opposite of the tensioner, and i grab the tensioner and pull it up to hold the slack till its tightened down.

 

be sure that the tensioner are bolted down, they are not spring loaded to hold the belt. the spring is just there to snap the pulley in place before TIGHTENING it up

 

you will notice holes on the face of the cam pulleys. there is a special spanner tool you can pick up for this. its easy enough to make one if you get the idea.

 

i have seen slack belts on running cars. you can always re-tighten the slack after the belt installation after the car has run on them for a while.

 

load the belt and then rotate the cam? won't it be off time if I rotate it? I am not sure I get it completely.

What I did the first time was load the left belt and with the tensioner on , but the bolts just a little snug, lifted up to put tension on the belt. It seemed ok at the time.

That is one concern.

My biggest concern is the Idler Pulley has rubbed a mark in the inside Timing Cover, Does this happen normally? Or should I consider it faulty and replace it?

[MilesFox]

i meant to just put tension on the cam pulley in the direction to take up slack on the drive side of the belt. you might get about 1/8" of a turn at most.

 

i have seen numerous cars with pulley/belt grooves in the timing belt covers. the plastic warps over time. not necessarily a cause for alarm, i have seen it on several models with various mileages.

 

do the right thing and just ditch the belt covers! if you are insistent on having belt covers, i have a complete set off a lo mile engine. make an offer if you want them, otherwise they may just go to trash if no one uses them up.