eulogious Posted March 17, 2010 Share Posted March 17, 2010 So I just wanted to start out and give a shout out to presslab who has hooked me up with alot of info so that I could make this happen, thanks! So I got fed up with my front wheels spinning on wet days, so I decided that I wanted to upgrade my loyale 4EAT TCU to an EJ TCU. It's a new processor, it's faster, more "up to date", just better all around, so why not. So after hunting down a 1990 legacy AWD TCU, I went to my local JY and grab a harness, and then got ready to start splicing in wires. So to start off, I had this document of the EJ TCU pinout, which is a good starting point. I then updated it with info that I have gleaned from talking to other and what not to try to get all the pins labeled. I also had some wiring scans for the loyale 4EAT, so that I could match up the wires. Well, I actually have the FSM, so I have another document that I haven't scanned yet that made it WAY easier to create a pinout like the one above. First the 4EAT wiring diagram: Now here's the diagram like the EJ that I have created, this is looking down at the plug, after it's been unplugged. So it's looking straight at the plug, if that makes sense. I will get around to making the connection like the EJ, one the is for the TCU itself, but for now this works: Ok, so here's the pics of it all said and done: And then here's my work area :-\ Nice and roomy… So basically using the two documents above I sat down with masking tape and labeled the EJ TCU wires and then I got into the car and I labeled them as well. This way the wires were labeled and I didn't have to worry about the diagrams anymore. I kept the labels on to help troubleshoot down the road, and I am very glad I did. Made it much easier to try to find the problems I was having. The one soldering tip that I used to speed up the soldering process and create a more solid mechanical connection was to create a hook on the wires end after stripping the insulation off, and the hooking the two wire together. Does that makes sense? This made it easier to solder with one hand, and add strength to the solder joint itself. After that I then matched up the wires, spliced, soldered, heat shrinked and moved onto the next one. I took a while, since my back started to hurt, so I spread it out over 2 days to relieve some back pain. It's pretty cramped in there and there are about 30 wires to splice, so it took some time. I have also created a RPM clipper circuit to limit the voltage going to the RPM wire, just so that it falls in line with what the TCU is expecting. I have a 1992 legacy FSM and it shows the wire coming right on the coil for the carbed EJ22, but just to be safe, I will add in the clipper circuit. I have not done that now because of diagnosing problems up to this point. Here's the circuit diagram I made: So I now have an ej TCU harness spliced into my exsisting loyale harness, so that I can swap either TCU in, so I will never been down because of that. I also know that this works as well. I have gone on a 20 mile drive and the EJ TCU shifts smoother, better, and is just nicer all around driving, and it shifts just like it should and acts just like my other one. The one problem that I do have is that the AWD fails (doesn't go into torque bind mode, but doesn't work, FWD all the time) because it's expecting a 4.11 diff, and I have a 3.7, but they will be fix via software soon At first my AWD was locked into 4wd mode all the time because of a burned out duty c circuit in the TCU. Here's my thread on how I fixed that: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=110121 So in doing all this I have tripple checked my connections and I have verified all my documents to make sure they are ok. So ya, this is the first step in my latest project. More to come on that! I will also scan in some more docs that I used to make this easier when I get a chance, and I will update this thread with those. If you have any questions, feel free to ask and I will help were I can! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted March 17, 2010 Share Posted March 17, 2010 Very cool. I was thinking about doing that with my '89 XT6....before it was totalled. I even have an EJ TCU and plugs here on the table next to me now. the different gear ratio doesn't explain why you don't have AWD. I know of guys who've swapped different ratio drivetrains without swapping TCUs (4.444 SVX. 3.9 legacy trans in place of a 4.111 impreza etc.). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eulogious Posted March 17, 2010 Author Share Posted March 17, 2010 (edited) Very cool. I was thinking about doing that with my '89 XT6....before it was totalled. I even have an EJ TCU and plugs here on the table next to me now. Sad times But I think you get the idea of where this is all heading, it was probably the same thing that you wanted to do... the different gear ratio doesn't explain why you don't have AWD. I know of guys who've swapped different ratio drivetrains without swapping TCUs (4.444 SVX. 3.9 legacy trans in place of a 4.111 impreza etc.). Ok, you got me. It's not truly JUST the rear diff. The TCU actually expects the tire/rim size to be a certain size and rotate at a certain revolutions per minute while the car is traveling at 60mph. So for the EJ cars, it expects E2 in hex, or 226rpm at 60mph. For the EA cars it needs EF, or 239rpm at 60mph. So it works out to be about 6% difference, just in the tire size, and that doesn't include the 3.7 rear diff which throws things off as well. So I think that is why you can switch trans' with the EJ series (SVX, Legacy, Impreza) with no problems and without switching the TCU, but when you try to move things across to the EA series, you run into a little more problems concerning tire/wheel size. The XT's might be different as well since they have 5 lug, but I really don't know, I haven't looked into that. But I think this is the main reason for the AWD not working. Now I also know that Gloyale swapped in a EJ trans into his EA car, but kept the EA TCU and all is well, so ya. I haven't looked at the code on the EA TCU to see the differences but obviously that works fine, but you are keeping the wheel size the same for the most part (EA wheels with EA TCU). It could also be that the code is completely different and more forgiving about the tire/wheel size as well, but I don't know since I have not seen the ROM code, so that is just speculation. It would make sense though because the XT's are 5 lug, so they probably just used the same TCU and made the code more forgiving, and then locked it down more with the legacy revision. Again speculating, but it would make sense. As it sits right now, when I start the car twice to check for errors, I get no errors, but as soon as I go for a drive, I get an error the next time I try to start it, so something is going on after the car starts moving, which falls in line with what presslab said his was doing before modifying that variable from E2 to EF. Once he changed that variable in the ROM, the AWD starting working again. The next step that I am going to do is to interface with the TCU via the alcyone.org linux software tcuscan while it's running and really see what's going on. I have the cable made already, I just need to get the actual TCU to function "properly" before I tried doing anything else to it, which I have finally succeeded in doing, so I will probably get to this in the morning. Once I get that done I will be able to tell what is really going on with the TCU and to see if all my sensors are working the way they should. Everything else in the car functioned properly on my test drive, just not the AWD. But the tcuscan software should be able to tell me if everything is good or not. At least I hope so Edited March 17, 2010 by eulogious Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted March 17, 2010 Share Posted March 17, 2010 I'm still not wrapping my head around it. gear ratio and tire/wheel size shouldn't matter, as they are after the speed sensor. if you've got smaller tires than it thinks, it'll just think you're going faster than you are. I mean, my snow tires are substantially oversized, and I never had problems. I suppose it could be in the calibration at the gauge. as the AWD system works by comparing speeds at the 2 speed sensors, front (gauge) and back (on the trans). if the calibration were different at one of these, and not the other, that would confuse it. But a couple years ago, when I put the OBD II motor in an '86 wagon, you could plug a scanner into it, and the OBD II ECU knew how fast the car was going. and it was pretty accurate. I don't know. you sound like you have a pretty solid handle on the project, and are on the right track. Keep it up!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eulogious Posted March 17, 2010 Author Share Posted March 17, 2010 I suppose it could be in the calibration at the gauge. as the AWD system works by comparing speeds at the 2 speed sensors, front (gauge) and back (on the trans). if the calibration were different at one of these, and not the other, that would confuse it. I think you hit the nail on the head here with this. If I remember reading correctly the legacy speedo is controlled by the TCU? Or something to that affect. The TCU somehow influences the speedo in the legacy's, I believe. I think I remember reading something like that. I am too tired right now to research this, but I will tonight when I get up. But I think that this is where the TCU comes into play and why changing that one variable fixed it for presslab and hopefully me. Even though the TCU doesn't control my speedo, the sensor that does control it might have to be calibrated, and that's where the software comes into play. Do keep in mind that I am only going off of what someone else has done, and my reading of the code and understanding of the code. Presslab said that he changed one variable in the ROM when his trans was acting like mine, and then all was well, and he hasn't had a problem since. I have the chip in front of me with the moddified ROM burned on it already , the DIP socket, and the solder holes clear on the board, so it will be as simple as "throwing it in" to see if it works or not, then I will be able to tell for sure I am just trying to get my ducks in a row before I dive in, so one could say I have a pretty good handle on it... The important part was making sure the TCU actually worked and that also ended up being the hardest part :-\ But a couple years ago, when I put the OBD II motor in an '86 wagon, you could plug a scanner into it, and the OBD II ECU knew how fast the car was going. and it was pretty accurate. I don't know much about OBD II at all so ya. I do know that in an OBD II trans there are more signals going to and from the TCU to the ECU, but not in mine. That's a Phase II 4EAT if I remember correctly... There is only 1 input from the ECU and that's for RPM on the Phase I, but I am sure you already knew that. So there are some differences, but I don't know enough about them to be able to say anything about it... Right now I am having trouble getting the tcuscan software to work, but I am to tired to care, so I will look at it some more soon. So once I can manage that and confirm that my wiring is correct via the tcuscan software (I think it is already, but I like to double check), then it's off to the fun part of the project Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted March 17, 2010 Share Posted March 17, 2010 early '90s EJ speedos are mechanically connected to the trans with a cable, just like the EAs (after that, the sensor is mounted in the trans, and the gauge is electronic, but still unaffected by the TCU). and they also get the front speed sensor signal from the reed switch in the gauge, just like the EAs. my only point with the OBD II comment, is that the ECU looking for an EJ speed sensor signal was right on (as far as I could tell....there's some delay with the scanner I was using....) to what the EA gauge was telling it. But yea, if presslab had this issue and that was the resolution, then I'll assume it's correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eulogious Posted March 18, 2010 Author Share Posted March 18, 2010 Ok, so after reading what Chux said, I decided to dive into the code to try to figure out what the hell was going on. Here's the two parts of the code that calculate the 2 speed sensors, VSS1, and VSS2: Calc VSS1: D6ED CalcVSS1: ; CODE XREF: SPIE-1044PD6ED ; SPIE-FB5PD6ED ldd word_24D6EF std word_1BD6F1 ldx #gearRatioMapD6F4 ldab currentGearD6F6 aslbD6F7 abxD6F8 ldaa 1,xD6FA ldab word_1B+1D6FC mulD6FD tabD6FE clraD6FF std byte_BBD701 ldaa 1,xD703 ldab word_1BD705 mulD706 addd byte_BBD708 std byte_BBD70A ldaa 0,xD70C ldab word_1B+1D70E mulD70F addd byte_BBD711 std byte_BBD713 ldaa 0,xD715 ldab word_1BD717 mulD718 tbaD719 clrbD71A addd byte_BBD71C std inputShaftRPMD71E ldd word_26D720 lsldD721 lsldD722 std word_1B[SIZE="3"][COLOR="Red"][B]D724 ldaa VSS1toKPHconst ; (862 * 4.11) / (899 * 3.7) * 0xE2 = 0xEF[/B][/COLOR][/SIZE]D727 ldab word_1B+1D729 mulD72A tstbD72B bpl loc_D72ED72D incaD72ED72E loc_D72E: ; CODE XREF: CalcVSS1+3EjD72E tabD72F clraD730 std byte_BBD732 ldaa VSS1toKPHconstD735 ldab word_1BD737 mulD738 addd byte_BBD73A std byte_BBD73C lsldD73D bcs loc_D745D73F lsldD740 bcs loc_D745D742 lsldD743 bcc loc_D74AD745D745 loc_D745: ; CODE XREF: CalcVSS1+50jD745 ; CalcVSS1+53jD745 ldaa #$FFD747 bset *byte_30, 1D74AD74A loc_D74A: ; CODE XREF: CalcVSS1+56jD74A staa VSS1D74C rtsD74C ; End of function CalcVSS1D74C Calc VSS2: DFFB CalcVSS2: ; CODE XREF: SPIE-1041PDFFB ; SPIE-FB2PDFFB tst byte_AEDFFE bne loc_E006E000 clraE001 clrbE002 std word_1DE004 staa VSS2E006E006 loc_E006: ; CODE XREF: CalcVSS2+3jE006 brclr *byte_2F, 1, locret_E061E00A bclr *byte_2F, 1E00D tst byte_AEE010 beq loc_E05CE012 seiE013 ldaa byte_2DE015 staa byte_BCE017 ldd byte_2BE019 cliE01A ldx #2E01DE01D loc_E01D: ; CODE XREF: CalcVSS2+2AjE01D asl byte_BCE020 rolbE021 rolaE022 bcs loc_E029E024 dexE025 bne loc_E01DE027 bra loc_E02CE029E029 loc_E029: ; CODE XREF: CalcVSS2+27jE029 ldd #$FFFFE02CE02C loc_E02C: ; CODE XREF: CalcVSS2+2CjE02C std byte_BBE02E xgdxE02F cpx word_C012E032 bls locret_E061E034 ldd word_C012E037 fdivE038 stx word_1DE03A addd word_C014E03D ldx byte_BBE03F idivE040 xgdxE041 addd word_1DE043 std word_1DE045 ldd word_C016E048 ldx byte_BBE04A idivE04B xgdxE04C tstaE04D beq loc_E054E04F ldab #$FFE051 bset *byte_30, $10E054E054 loc_E054: ; CODE XREF: CalcVSS2+52jE054 addb VSS2E056 rorbE057 stab VSS2E059 bset *byte_30, 8E05CE05C loc_E05C: ; CODE XREF: CalcVSS2+15jE05C ldaa byte_C018E05F staa byte_AEE061E061 locret_E061: ; CODE XREF: CalcVSS2:loc_E006jE061 ; CalcVSS2+37jE061 rtsE061 ; End of function CalcVSS2 As you can see, VSS1 is recalculated, and VSS2 is untouched. I have highlighted in red the important part of VSS1, the part that recalculates VSS1 to read the same as VSS2. So what I found out is that the TCU has to take the input from VSS1 and then recalculates it so that it matches VSS2 in order to figure out if slip is occurring (DUH!). So it has nothing to do with the tire size directly, but how the TCU recalculates the VSS1 speed to make sure that it MATCHES what the VSS2 should be so that the two sensors are reading the same speed in order to calculate slip correctly. Now this makes total sense. So then if VSS1 and VSS2 are reading different numbers (they are reading two different numbers because the VSS1 is being recalculated for the EJ tire size and 4.11 rear diff, not the EA tire size and the 3.7 rear diff (I don't think that the rear diff matters, but it could), and VSS2 is not being touched so it's the actual speed the car is traveling, while VSS1 is recalculated based off what the tire size should be coming from the factory, and the factory rear diff ratio for the car) the AWD will not be able to calculate the amount of slip correctly, and then it faults, putting it into FWD mode. Basically it runs the calculations on both speed sensors and then compares VSS1 and VSS2, which should be the same, and if they are not, it throws out an error which then affects the AWD. The rest of the system is fine, since none of the other components require a direct comparison of the 2 speed senors in order to function properly, it's either one or the other. So I believe that's why I am having the problems that I am having, and also why changing that one variable in the software fixes everything right up. Does that all make sense? Chux: Thanks for the info man! I didn't know all of that before, so thanks for that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eulogious Posted March 18, 2010 Author Share Posted March 18, 2010 (edited) Ok so I wasn't quite happy with my previous answer since I didn't know exactly what was failling so I dug a little bit deeper, and then I found this little handy chart saying what to look for under certain conditions. According to this chart, and it's from a 1995 FSM so things could be different, if front wheel slipage occurs, one of the things to check in VSS2, which would fall into line with what I was saying in my previous post. Since the TCU is recalculating VSS1, it's assuming that VSS1 is correct (it's not in this case, VSS2 is correct because it's not being recalculated, but the TCU doesn't know any better) so when the numbers are off, it defaults to saying the VSS2 is broke because it's giving a false speed reading (since it's different than VSS1), and then it puts the trans into FWD mode because of this. I think that answer all the questions on why my trans is acting the way it is and why the trans is putting itself into FWD mode. Here's the code that I found and if you follow the code for the VSS2 error, it leads to the same chunk of code that handle the FWD fuse, so I can back up this all up with the code. Of course this is assuming that I am reading the code correctly as well First chunk shows the VSS2 Error and FWD fuse functions and where to branch to handle those: E25E loc_E25E: ; CODE XREF: CalcVehicleSpeed+7j[B][COLOR="Red"]E25E brset *errorFlags, $20, loc_E27A ; ' ' ; VSS2 Error[/COLOR][/B][B][COLOR="red"]E262 brset *misc_Inputs, $80, loc_E2C7 ; '€' ; FWD Fuse[/COLOR][/B]E266 cmpb byte_C04BE269 bhi loc_E273E26B ldaa byte_C04EE26E aslaE26F staa byte_AF Here's section E27A (VSS2 Error): E27A loc_E27A: ; CODE XREF: CalcVehicleSpeed+CjE27A ; CalcVehicleSpeed:loc_E25EjE27A ldaa byte_17E27C brset *errorFlags, 4, loc_E2B0E280 ldab byte_C04EE283 stab byte_AFE285 cmpa byte_C04BE288 bhi loc_E2A1E28A cmpa byte_C04C[COLOR="Red"][B]E28D bcs loc_E2C7[/B][/COLOR]E28F ldab VSS2E291 cmpb byte_C04B[B][COLOR="red"]E294 bhi loc_E2C7[/COLOR][/B]E296 bclr *errorFlags, $10E299 bclr *errorFlags0, 2E29C bset *byte_2, 2[B][COLOR="red"]E29F bra loc_E2C7[/COLOR][/B] As you can see (highlighted in red), if it errors in anyway it branches to the FWD Fuse function... And section E2C7 (FWD Fuse): E2C7 loc_E2C7: ; CODE XREF: CalcVehicleSpeed+12jE2C7 ; CalcVehicleSpeed+21j ...E2C7 brclr *errorFlags, 2, loc_E2DFE2CB ldaa VSS2E2CD ldab VSS1E2CF brclr *byte_30, 8, loc_E2D8E2D3 bclr *errorFlags, 2E2D6 bra loc_E336 So at this point, the code is running the same branch instructions (to location E336), so it's the same for the VSS2 error, and the FWD fuse. So I think this gives us a solid answer as to why this problem is solved via software and why tire size and diff ratio actually matter when dealing with calculating the AWD. If I am wrong on this, someone please correct me! Edited March 18, 2010 by eulogious Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted March 18, 2010 Share Posted March 18, 2010 that's officially over my head but it sounds like you're on the right track. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eulogious Posted March 18, 2010 Author Share Posted March 18, 2010 Notice something different? I can officially say that I was correct in my previous post. The new ROM("SST" chip) is in and is working perfectly with no errors and no flashing power light :banana: Took him for a drive and everything worked flawlessly. After the drive and during I stopped and checked for power light flashes/errors and... nothing! Woohoo!! Now that it works "normally", time to start adding all the goodies! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted March 18, 2010 Share Posted March 18, 2010 officially awesome!! nice work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted April 19, 2012 Share Posted April 19, 2012 I'm bumping this back up, as I'm planning on patching my XT6 together to be an SCCA Rallycross car. I have a couple questions/confirmations. This is mostly for Eulogious, but I submit it for public opinion, in case someone else has some insight. I don't want to bother with the paddle shifters or center diff mod. That stuff is awesome for a lot of uses, but for rallyX, I pretty much just need 1st and 2nd gears. I would like to go to the EJ TCU. I have a '91 Legacy AWD TCU and plugs here. The wiring side doesn't scare me. I also have a 2/3 Tach Signal modifier, as I was hoping to put a 4-cyl digi dash in this car. I have used this same modifier in a 3.3RS, so I know the simulated output is similar to the EJ signal. I'm thinking it should substitute for your signal clipper. For the AWD issue. Since I don't want to mess with the code. I'm thinking I might just grab an EJ VSS from a car with an electronic speedo. I'll gladly sacrifice the functionality of the stock speedo for working AWD. I know the electronic VSS can replace the cable on a manual transmission....hopefully the same is true with the 4EAT. That should give the TCU the VSS1 signal it's looking for. Question about the functionality. Does the Manual mode still work? And does the 1 hold button work like it should? Since the EJ system actually has another notch on the shifter and on the transmission, I'm concerned that I won't be able to select and hold 1st just by using the button on the XT6. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eulogious Posted April 19, 2012 Author Share Posted April 19, 2012 I'm bumping this back up, as I'm planning on patching my XT6 together to be an SCCA Rallycross car. I have a couple questions/confirmations. This is mostly for Eulogious, but I submit it for public opinion, in case someone else has some insight. I don't want to bother with the paddle shifters or center diff mod. That stuff is awesome for a lot of uses, but for rallyX, I pretty much just need 1st and 2nd gears. I would like to go to the EJ TCU. I have a '91 Legacy AWD TCU and plugs here. The wiring side doesn't scare me. I also have a 2/3 Tach Signal modifier, as I was hoping to put a 4-cyl digi dash in this car. I have used this same modifier in a 3.3RS, so I know the simulated output is similar to the EJ signal. I'm thinking it should substitute for your signal clipper. For the AWD issue. Since I don't want to mess with the code. I'm thinking I might just grab an EJ VSS from a car with an electronic speedo. I'll gladly sacrifice the functionality of the stock speedo for working AWD. I know the electronic VSS can replace the cable on a manual transmission....hopefully the same is true with the 4EAT. That should give the TCU the VSS1 signal it's looking for. Question about the functionality. Does the Manual mode still work? And does the 1 hold button work like it should? Since the EJ system actually has another notch on the shifter and on the transmission, I'm concerned that I won't be able to select and hold 1st just by using the button on the XT6. All of what I am about to say is just off the top of my head with no research done to verify it, so keep that in mind That and I am about to hit the sack and go to bed, so I am a little tired. I will have more time tomorrow at work to look into this a little bit more and confirm what I am about to say. If all you want is to go to the EJ TCU, that should be fairly straight forward. The biggest thing is if you want the AWD to work is that the TCU matches the trans and diff ratios. Without modifying the code, that is the one thing you need to make sure of. The TCU has those ratios hard coded into it, and you can be a little ways off and it MIGHT work, it mostly likely won't. I know 3.7 to 4.11 throws a code for sure. That's the important thing with the AWD. The manual mode still works for sure. My custom code uses that "function" for the paddles. It just extends the manual function to all gears all the time, but still uses it. So it's still intact. I use the input for something else, so I don't have the manual button any more, but I don't care. But if you are just using a stock EJ TCU, then yes, just activate the manual input on the TCU and it should work as normal. But keep in mind that the stock behavior in 1st and 2nd in manual mode is to lock in in "4wd". Don't know if this is what you want or not. You probably know that, but just want to remind ya of it. As for the "1 hold" button working for the "1st gear" position, I don't see why it shouldn't work. I think the TCU gets it's input from the inhibitor switch, which is what would tell it that it's in 1st. So it's just a switch. You should be able to wire up the existing "1 hold" switch, or any momentary switch for that matter, no problems. Just need to figure out if it needs a ground or positive input. Looks like you've done your homework and everything else you said looks good. I believe you have all of your bases covered as to what the EJ TCU needs. The hard part is wiring the stupid thing in! Not hard, just time consuming, and there isn't a ton of space to work. It just takes time. But nothing you can't handle I am sure If I can managed to get it wired up properly the 1st time, I have all faith you can too :-p Hope that gives you something to chew on! I will post more tomorrow! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 As for the "1 hold" button working for the "1st gear" position, I don't see why it shouldn't work. I think the TCU gets it's input from the inhibitor switch, which is what would tell it that it's in 1st. So it's just a switch. You should be able to wire up the existing "1 hold" switch, or any momentary switch for that matter, no problems. Just need to figure out if it needs a ground or positive input. Because of the strange shifter arrangement on the EA's (i.e. first hold button) you have a situation here the "2nd" signal and the "fisrt hold" signals are present to the TCU in the stock config. When I had my EJ 3.9 in with the EA TCU, I had to do a dance with the shifter and buttons to get 1st gear with Torque conv. lockup for decel downhill. Firstly, I modified the shifter, a bit of trimming and it could pull the cable one bit further to the "1st" position of the EJ tran. Additionally, I had to hit the button for 1st hold......but I had to do this after I was out of second, or the TCU would think still "2nd" and not fully lock the TC. I dont know if this will be an issue using EJ TCU along with the EJ trans. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted April 21, 2012 Share Posted April 21, 2012 Thanks for the insight, Eulogious. XT6s use a 3.9 4EAT, as to the 1st gen Legacies. So that aspect will be fine. Maybe I'll try it with the stock speedo first. But I still suspect the calibration might be an issue. In which case.....I'd rather have AWD work than a speedometer Because of the strange shifter arrangement on the EA's (i.e. first hold button) you have a situation here the "2nd" signal and the "fisrt hold" signals are present to the TCU in the stock config. When I had my EJ 3.9 in with the EA TCU, I had to do a dance with the shifter and buttons to get 1st gear with Torque conv. lockup for decel downhill. Firstly, I modified the shifter, a bit of trimming and it could pull the cable one bit further to the "1st" position of the EJ tran. Additionally, I had to hit the button for 1st hold......but I had to do this after I was out of second, or the TCU would think still "2nd" and not fully lock the TC. I dont know if this will be an issue using EJ TCU along with the EJ trans. Good luck. Yours was the situation I was thinking of. although I'm thinking of doing the the exact opposite, so EJ TCU and EA (or ER, technically) 4EAT. Since the ER transmission isn't looking for another notch. Maybe just put a SPDT switch instead of the 1 hold button. So once the shifter is in 2nd, the switch can select 1st OR 2nd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 22, 2012 Share Posted April 22, 2012 Yours was the situation I was thinking of. although I'm thinking of doing the the exact opposite, so EJ TCU and EA (or ER, technically) 4EAT. Since the ER transmission isn't looking for another notch. Maybe just put a SPDT switch instead of the 1 hold button. So once the shifter is in 2nd, the switch can select 1st OR 2nd. The switch idea sounds good. You could use a pushbutton switch from a S/R 5spd 4wd... it's a SPDT clicker, and you could prolly even mount it into the shifter:brow: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 (edited) The electronic speedometers are transplant-able. I put one from a 98 forester into a 93 legacy dash. A little trimming, a little melting plastic with a soldering iron, and a little hot glue and it worked great. I was able to carefully cut the traces on the printed circuit sheet into ribbons so I could re-position them on the electric speedo's contact screws and ran a power jumper wire from another contact screw on the board. It sounds hack, but it came out looking stock and working perfectly. I've also used a pushbutton 4wd shift knob on a honda civic DX that I swapped a HX motor into after the original spun a rod bearing. The pushbutton would switch the vtec-e so it would go from a 12v high swirl head to a 16v high flow head. The guy is still driving the car like that as far as I know. That same pushbutton shift knob had seen time on a CRX Si activating the vtec on a d16z6 head that we had swapped into it. It was fun to have manual control of the vtec, but not entirely practical. Edited April 24, 2012 by WoodsWagon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eulogious Posted April 26, 2012 Author Share Posted April 26, 2012 Looks like you got it figured out, at least in theory I will be following this thread so if you run into some issues while trying to get it too work, just ask! Apparently life makes it so I can't have as much free time to post as I used to, but I will try to check and offer a quick response if need be. Good luck man! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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