brysawn Posted March 17, 2010 Share Posted March 17, 2010 (edited) My car is an EA82 loyale with 180k and has original headgaskets, but brand new timing belt, water pump, distributor, rotor, cooling system, etc... My tick has begun, but sometimes it will just be at start-up and when I get to running temp, it goes away. Other times it doesn't, but its a very light tick (can't even hear it over the exhaust). What are my options? I know the Oil pump, and seafom. But how do I use the seafom? I thought I read that this stuff is bad if used incorrectly. What weight oil have you guys had success with? I'm currently using a 10-40 Anyone use a full synthetic? Also, I've read that motors will last in excess of 50k when the tick really starts going. But with my mild tick is it going to be bad to be at higher rpm's for extended periods of time? I have to drive from Salem, OR to Bothell, WA tomorrow, and back in 10 days. Is this going to be harmful? I'm always afraid of something happening when being at 3k rpms for 5 hours. With this, is there any other I'm prone to? I know this is a lot, but the help would be greatly appreciated. Edited March 17, 2010 by brysawn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eulogious Posted March 17, 2010 Share Posted March 17, 2010 Don't be fooled by the name TOD (tick of death), the tick is fine. They can tick all day and never hurt the motor, or so I have been told anyways... Mine does the same thing on startup, and I am not worried about it at all. Sometimes I will add some MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) and it seems to help with sir ticks alot, but I don't add that alot of the time. I have notice that when my oil gets low it will tick more, but other than that i wouldn't really worry about it. I drive from Olympia to Seattle and back every weekend and have racked up about 10,000 miles since I got my tickin' subie and I have had no problems at all. You can replace the pump, but just for a little tick, I wouldn't fuss about it until something else comes up and you need to dive in a replace the oil pump since if you replace the pump you might as well do the water pump and the t-belts as well since you are in there. It's kinda a big job. As for seafoam, just do a search for it. There are tons of threads about how to use it. I use 10-40w chevron oil and don't plan on changing that anytime soon I don't really think there is a need to run synthetic, but to each their own. I think that just about answers your questions, good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivantruckman Posted March 17, 2010 Share Posted March 17, 2010 Ive had t o d for 6 months, seems to get quieter during the beginning of the oil change cycle, when the engine leaks enough oil or Ibrake a timing belt ill do a compleat engine reseal and junk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted March 17, 2010 Share Posted March 17, 2010 i drove 4500 miles on collapsed lifters. make sure to change the cam tower o-rings. if those are bad, no amounts of seafoam, mystery oil, or oil pump seals will cure it. the engine i had sounded like a ball peen hammer at idle, and replacing the cam tower o-rings with lifters from another motor with half the miles cured it. this was after replacing the oil pump and seal. this engine had 213,000 miles when i fixed it. it rolled over 200,000 on that 4500 mile road trip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brysawn Posted March 17, 2010 Author Share Posted March 17, 2010 Are those difficult to replace? Thanks for the replies Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted March 17, 2010 Share Posted March 17, 2010 (edited) high rpms (5k+), with tick, with huge timing advance equals kaboom.... Edited March 17, 2010 by bheinen74 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brysawn Posted March 17, 2010 Author Share Posted March 17, 2010 (edited) high rpms, with tick, with huge timing advance equals kaboom.... By high RPM's I meant around 3k (or less) around 65mph. My timing is pretty spot on. Or so I thought... Edited March 17, 2010 by brysawn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 17, 2010 Share Posted March 17, 2010 Ticking lifters by themselves will not cause ANY damage to the engine - ever. You just aren't fully opening the valves when they are actuated. If your oil pressure stinks and the pump is shot you will eventually blow the #3 rod bearing. And yes - higher RPM will kill it faster. Won't hurt the valves any though Do yourself a favor and remove/inspect the oil pump, reseal it, replace the cam tower o-rings and then do what you like with the lifters. If they still tick after that it's because they are worn, dirty, or the banjo-bolt relief spring is out of spec. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twitch de la Brat Posted March 18, 2010 Share Posted March 18, 2010 And just so you can at least TRY seafoam first, before doing all this extra work, I just put half a can of seafoam into my oil, right before I'm going to change it. And I put the other half into my gas tank. After putting the seafoam into the oil I let my car idle until warm, then for another 5 minutes or so, revving occasionally. I then shut the car off, and change the oil as usual. But you have to be fast so as not to get burnt by the hot oil. Oh, and don't be surprised if your oil is excessively black and kinda thin. Twitch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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