85 brat carburetor

[petedel]

I just picked up an 85 brat but know little about it. I was told that two mechanics have rebuilt the carb for 150.00 each time but still does not run right and stalls.

 

I have pulled the carb out. I think it is the original hitachi 2 barrel. The only identification i could find on it is DCP306-26 150. I have called 3 subaru dealerships with the vin number of the brat and spoken to carburetor parts people but still not sure what parts / carburetor i need to get this thing running again.

 

What engine do I have? What options are there for my 85 and how do i make sure what part numbers i need to order? I don't see any markings or labels on engine or under the hood?

 

Thanks in advance. I have searched through 10 pages of posts but figured this would be quicker. Im guessing the weber is the way i want to go.

 

Pete

[Twitch de la Brat]

First of all, your BRAT should have the EA81 OHV engine, a 4 speed manual, or

a 3 speed automatic.

And if you look at the block, directly in front of where the carb sits, there

should be a mark that says "EA81" directly on the block of the engine.

 

Its possible that they rebuilt the carb improperly, as these little hitachi's are

kinda picky.

 

You may need to replace or reconnect some vacuum lines, because these

little engines are VERY vacuum dependent.

 

Check out your fuel filter and fuel lines as well.

Its possible that they are clogged and just need replacement or servicing.

 

Twitch

[The Beast I Drive]

If you don't have to pass emissions inspections, I recomend you ditch the stock carb and get a weber. You can get the whole kit with a brand new carb on eBay for under $350. Weber carbs are much more reliable and a simpler design than the hitachis and will save you a lot of headaches.

 

-Bill

[petedel]

Thanks for the quick responses. I looked at the block and see EA81. I just realized its not an 85 but 86 brat. Does this make a difference? Any ideas where the best place to buy the weber is? Anyone know where the best thread on the install is.

 

thanks,

 

Pete

[GeneralDisorder]

Call carbsunlimited.com.

 

You want a Weber 32/36 DGV with either electric or manual choke (if you prefer - get a cable as well if you go with manual), the adaptor plate for an EA81 (tell them it's an '84 model year, "Overhead Valve Engine"), and the SHORT air filter assembly (the tall one they normally include with the DGV won't fit under the hood).

 

If they need to know what jetting you want, this is the recipe:

 

Mains: 140/140

Air Bleeds: 170/160

Idle Jets: 50/50

 

It would be a good idea to also order a 60 primary idle jet in case you need it. Just depends on the engine - some will do fine with the 50, and some will have progression issues and will want a larger idle jet.

 

There's plenty of threads on the install - it's pretty basic. Install the adaptor plate paying close attention to the base heat coolant passage so as to insure no coolant leakage. Mount the carb and hookup the linkage, distributor vacuum advance, and EGR vacuum if desired, and then mount the air cleaner and configure the PCV system to route to the breather nipple on the filter base.

 

GD

[petedel]

I put my new weber 32/36 in.

 

The air filter seems too tall. It's too close for comfort. the hood hindge is broke(the spot welds have broken) so i have not closed it all the way. Can i get a shorter filter? if so where can i get one. The weber tech line or the redline people say that the 2 5/8 is the correct size for the ea81 but its not working for me.

 

I have looked at some pics of the new pcv routing but not certain where all the hoses are going. I see the single line into air filter and the hoses for each of the valve covers. It appears there is another hose going down from the valve cover lines "T" fitting.

[GeneralDisorder]

That's why I told you to get the short filter . I mentioned this specifically because the Weber and Redline people don't know from beans about Subaru's and I wanted you to know that you should NOT buy the kit they offer as it contains all the wrong parts. None of them have personally installed one - I've done dozens and this is alway the case with EA81's. The kit they offer is a waste of money since you end up having to replace everything but the adaptor and the carb and they don't come jetted right anyhow.

 

GD

[petedel]

I told them everything from your post. I assumed there was an even bigger assembly, when i saw how close this one was. I did not understand that it was just an inch smaller filter.

 

Now i have the problem of finding out if they gave me the right jetting. Is it simple to tell?

 

Thanks,

 

Pete

[dwuollet]

My local Napa actually had the short air filter in stock, you might try there.

 

Follow GD's advice very closely, he won't steer you wrong.

 

the Weber rocks, you won't regret the swap.

[GeneralDisorder]

I told them everything from your post. I assumed there was an even bigger assembly, when i saw how close this one was. I did not understand that it was just an inch smaller filter.

 

Now i have the problem of finding out if they gave me the right jetting. Is it simple to tell?

 

Thanks,

 

Pete

 

Well - hopefully they gave you the base Weber jetting, which seems to be the setup I listed above. But not always. I had to dissasemble my brand new Redline carb many years back because they screwed up the choke linkage..... just pop the top off and read the numbers on the air bleeds - then remove the mains one at a time from the bottom of the float bowl and read the number on the side of them. Being a new carb it should be a snap to dissasemble and reassemble. Just don't lose the e-clip that holds the arm to the choke plate lever.

 

The idle jets are accesible from the front and rear of the carb. There is a large brass flat-head screw on the front - remove that and in the end of it will be the idle jet. Again read the number on it. 50 will probably be what you have and may work fine - but a lot of times I find that I need one or two sizes larger.

 

GD

[petedel]

On the new set up for the pcv, I think i see from your pics there is a third house in the "T" going down from the two vavle cover pcv hoses. Is this correct and if so where is it going?

 

Pete

Edited May 14, 2010 by petedel

[GeneralDisorder]

To the PCV valve.

 

GD

[petedel]

so from the pcv valve it goes down into the intake at the fitting just to the right of the egr valve.

[GeneralDisorder]

No - that fitting IS the PCV valve.

 

GD

[petedel]

I took the fitting out. it has two 1/2 inch and one 1/4 inch ports. I don't think someone, before i got the car, put a pcv valve there. When i blow or suck at each of the three ports there is no resistance. Its just a empty fitting without any type of valve inside. What the heck!!!

[GeneralDisorder]

The nipple on the intake manifold next to the EGR is the PCV valve. The plastic deal is just a fitting for connecting the hoses - nothing inside them.

 

GD

[GeneralDisorder]

Also - try a search for ["PCV routing" weber] (without the brackets). The correct way to hook it up has been covered a number of times.

 

GD

[petedel]

awesome!!!

now i get it. Thanks a lot for clearing that up for me. i have always seen pcv valves on the valve cover.

 

im going to now check the mains and air bleeds to see what redline put in.

 

Pete

[petedel]

The idle jets were 50 and 52

 

air bleeds/ 170/160 (I assume they were not switched up or does it matter?)

 

mains are the only ones i was certain were correct: 140/140

 

spent $130.00 at advance auto on battery,hoses, thermostat, oil, ect..

 

still need to find fittings for the pcv hoses and a smaller air filter.

 

Do i just put a 1/2" cap on the egr valve?

 

might try to fire her up on Monday.

 

thanks for all the help. would not have gotten this far without you.

 

Pete

[GeneralDisorder]

You do not need to put anything on the EGR valve if you don't want to use it. If you do you can remove the small brass screw on the front of the carb that blocks the EGR vacuum signal port (next to and slightly below the distributor vacuum signal port) and run a vacuum hose from there to the EGR valve.

 

170/160 is correct - the larger should be on the primary. Larger air bleeds lean out the mixture (more air).

 

If you find you have a slight hessitation from idle to WOT after fully tuning and making sure you have the idle, mixture and timing correct as well as no vacuum leaks - you probably need a larger primary idle jet.

 

GD