asis Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 On a 1600 (starter top center) in a 80' BRAT. Posting this here because all the numbers I can match up and my POS Chilton's confirms electronic ignition being original. I bought the thing not running and all though I did get a story about work supposedly done, I see evidence contrary...however, there are wires loose, snipped, hanging etc. I do have spark from the coil wire but not to the plugs apparently. The cap, rotor and wires all look new, no signs of wear, damage or cracks or carbon. I was able to get it to fire a couple of times so it may just be an intermittent problem but much more mittent at this point. I don't see any signs of the disty being loosened or moved, so am assuming timing is not an issue at this point. It appears to me the resistor...? (looks like a condensor from a points system mounted externally next to the coil) connects to the coil...forget now whether pos or neg terminal, and is snipped at the exit. It looks to me as if it has been cut for some time since there is corrosion on the bare wire sticking out of the insulation. My manual mentions a "reluctor" plate airgap? Just beginning this process so hoping to find some tips on a course of action. I also found the alternator disconnected, main lug, two terminal plug and a spade connector but I don't see the alternator shown in the circuit in my manual so just fyi. There is a wire connected to the spade but have not traced it out yet. TIA asis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 The condensor off the coil is to eliminate radio interferance - it's not critical to ignition operation. I will leave them if they are good, but don't sweat it if it's not - just yank it. Ultimately - if you have consistent spark from the coil - then it's either a cap/rotor/wire/plug issue, or the timing is off. The coil can't fire unless the distributor's module tells it to - so that is working it sounds like. Now - if you get to a point where you know the timing is good and you have spark but it still won't fire and stay running - the distributor may still be bad. I've had it happen - where the module is borderline and can't keep up with normal engine RPM. It is possible - but it's relatively rare. Sorry I haven't replied to your PM yet - just been busy. You can come get that engine anytime and it's got another distributor on it - might be a points/condensor style - I'm not sure. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
asis Posted March 23, 2010 Author Share Posted March 23, 2010 Thanks GD, I have kinda been hangin round for you to find me. No worries I know busy and I got several irons burning too. You have mostly confirmed my logic as far as what could or should be wrong. I did notice something in the disty that resembles metal shavings or dust, maybe the spark is jumping all over instead of to the wire contacts. Kinda monkeying it running the key and looking by myself so...it is a side project at any rate, making it run is just a bonus. It only sputtered on some starting fluid and once on some gas right into the carb. and I see no squirt when I open the throttle and look down the throat.... side note, I re routed the clutch cable on the other BRAT and it helped slightly so I think that other cable would do wonders, but still rather fix the pedal assy while I am at it. Honestly I don't think the one we pulled is gonna be worth making it work. Think maybe I should start a thread on my girl's BRAT....it starting to look perty tweet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 If the dust resembles rust,it is a sure sign the disty is ground firing.(Spark is jumping to the shaft).Fits your symptoms. Haven`t seen this on a sube yet. GM HEI ignitions are prone to this. Spark jumps straight thru the plastic rotor to the shaft. If you look carefully,you will see the telltale arc marks. I would replace the rotor and check the plugs and plug wire resistance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
asis Posted March 23, 2010 Author Share Posted March 23, 2010 If the dust resembles rust,it is a sure sign the disty is ground firing.(Spark is jumping to the shaft).Fits your symptoms. Haven`t seen this on a sube yet. GM HEI ignitions are prone to this. Spark jumps straight thru the plastic rotor to the shaft. If you look carefully,you will see the telltale arc marks. I would replace the rotor and check the plugs and plug wire resistance. Thx naru, It does not look like rust at all, in fact I would say more like aluminum if anything, not shiny at all and my light was lame so I need to inspect better and will. I thought about hitting it with some wd but barely have any and not really sure I wanted to at the time...I am basically doing "casual" inspections at this time. Sure does confirm my line of thinking as well tho so I will proceed along those lines. Thx agin asis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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