CV Axel

[Tsuriman]

The boot on the driver side CV axel is ripped and the axel itself has a pretty good play. I have had only one symptom that concerns me. At speeds over 65 sometimes we get a shake or a shimmy in the front end. Sometimes so bad we can hardly drive. Otherwise everything seems tip top.

Could this be the CV axel?

Thanks

[Fairtax4me]

It could be. Could also be a tire balance issue.

Can you tell if there is any grease left inside the boot? If there is grease and it doesn't look like it's full of sand then the axle may be fine. A thorough cleaning and a new boot and grease will suffice. If there is no grease, replace the axle.

Lots of people have trouble with after market cv axles. There are a few brands though that people have had good luck with. I believe one of them was something like MWE. Do some searching here and you should get some good info on that.

[Tsuriman]

Should there be any play?

It is not tight. Prolly close to 1/4 in of play side to side.

[Rooster2]

If it were me, I would replace the half shaft with a rebuilt unit. That loose "play," doesn't sound good at all. It is not worth breaking down, or having a wreck.

[sparky11]

As easy as it is to replace the axle that is exactly what I would do. With a bunch of miles on the axle + torn outer boot and who knows how long the joint has been eating dirt, just replace it. There should be no twist play at all and little to none shaft movement side to side, and certainly no noise whatsoever. Rebooting the outer joint is a pain and generally not successful.

 

New axles are available at the national parts chains for about $70.00 new, but beware thay are Chinese made and they can break immediately, or never, and anything in between. I put one in last may and the inner joint broke within a month and was replaced under warranty. I use them simply because my closest dealer is over 50 miles away and the national chain is 2 miles away, and I can replace the axle myself easily and quickly. If you a paying someone to replace them, than use factory remanufactured parts from Subaru for a once and done job.

[Tsuriman]

Thanks guys, I am going to replace it.

 

I am trying to wrap my head around where to buy it.

 

A couple of searches lead to some great write-ups. It appears that the Subaru dealer axle is rebuilt by Caredone for $179 and it looks like the Duralast is rebuilt/new? by Caredone as well for $60.

 

Im not saying what you guys and other threads say about the aftermarket parts is bad / wrong but what gives?

 

edit: Actually AZ has a Cardone CV axle as well as the Duralast axle on thier website.

Edited March 23, 2010 by Tsuriman

[idosubaru]

Im not saying what you guys and other threads say about the aftermarket parts is bad / wrong but what gives?

what do you mean, what's your exact question?

 

I think I explained it above. Aftermarket axles have a failure rate. Say it's 20% (i'm making it up). That's horrible and doesn't bode well for having the axle for long periods of time. They probably don't care since most folks replacing an axle on 10-20 year old cars aren't going to own them long.

 

I've had one brand new one explode into pieces after 100 yards and at least two (if not more) vibrate out of the box or within a couple months. Once I saw others here and elsewhere having similar experiences I looked for better options, my preference is closer to 100% success rate and longer lasting axles as I keep my vehicles for awhile.

 

There are many, many threads on here about failed axles. A quick search turns up this one where at least 5 folks mention bad New aftermarket axles, some take a year to fail.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=83267&highlight=vibration+axle&page=2

 

And we see similar threads on a regular basis. It comes down to personal preference. If you don't mind a higher failure rate then go for it, chances are good that you'll be fine but annoying if you aren't.

 

If you want near 100% success rate go with MWE or reboot a Subaru axle.

[Rooster2]

Thanks guys, I am going to replace it.

 

I am trying to wrap my head around where to buy it.

 

A couple of searches lead to some great write-ups. It appears that the Subaru dealer axle is rebuilt by Caredone for $179 and it looks like the Duralast is rebuilt/new? by Caredone as well for $60.

 

Im not saying what you guys and other threads say about the aftermarket parts is bad / wrong but what gives?

 

edit: Actually AZ has a Cardone CV axle as well as the Duralast axle on thier website.

 

My experience with AZ has been mixed, but mostly good. I think all that I ever bought there have been in a Duralast box. All have been good, except for the last one that I bought there, clicks just a little on a left turn. Still seems okay, but the slight clicking is cause for concern. The half shaft has only been on the car for about 3 months, so time will see if it holds up or not.

[jp98]

I'll second the MWE axle. I haven't heard of a problem with them from anyone on the board and I haven't had a problem on the one that I replaced. Also you have a choice of a rebuild CV joint or a new CV joint. I went with the new one since it wasn't that much of a difference of price.

[Rooster2]

I'll second the MWE axle. I haven't heard of a problem with them from anyone on the board and I haven't had a problem on the one that I replaced. Also you have a choice of a rebuild CV joint or a new CV joint. I went with the new one since it wasn't that much of a difference of price.

 

Just curious, what is the cost of a new one??

[jp98]

Just curious, what is the cost of a new one??

 

I believe that the new one was $95.00 vs $75.00 for the rebuilt one. But that was 2 years ago when I did mine. Their web site still list the rebuilt one for $75.00

[idosubaru]

Last I checked MWE (fall 2009) I think EJ's were $75, though I don't know if that's a rebuild or new price.

 

XT6, which he always builds with new, were $95 or $100 I think (fall 2009).

 

Price may go up if there are cores and shipping. I'm not sure if he charges cores for all. On one or two occasions he's had specials for USMB.

[Tsuriman]

OK first thing. Subies are tough SOBs. I have been driving with this bad axle close to a year, not driving over 55 for most of it. BUT All 4 boots on the drive axles were shot. 2 joints with brown grease and So much play but still held up!! so cool.

 

I did the job at my brothers place. he has a lift, This job would be bugger on a garage floor.

 

Lots of PB BLaster is a necessity.

Here is the processes in its basics.

 

Lifted the car just a bit. cracked the nuts on the axles wiht a 3/4 socket wrench and a 4ft cheater.

Lifted to remove the wheels.

Removed nut on the ball joint to drop the lower conrol arm. you need to loosen the bolt on the top of the ball joint. You see the pics online and in the Haynes book with the screwdriver pointed at the gap, but you got to ram that big screw driver up north till the ball joint gap opens up and drop with minimal pressure but still takes some god awful pressure.We used some construction pry bars. First side we had 2 250+ guys hanging and pulling, with no luck. But the pb blaster and the correct technique popped it off in no time. We used the pointy end of the pry bar under the bolt holes and the lower arm to pop it.

This is probably the hardest part of the job. The second came off so easy with the rigth technique.

 

Then remove the pin from the axel. We cut off a screw driver for the driver side but the pass side takes a little more work. We rigged a cut off screw driver with a 1/4 nut and a 1/4 extension to make it happen (when you do it you will see how it works). From pics posted you dont have to do it from above. There are 2 points if you have the car lifted, there is a gap between a fork in the exhaust and between the exhaust and the floor boards that will allow removal and install of the pin, but we had the luxury of working under a lift. we used 1/4 in screw driver and extensions to make it happen.

 

Removal of the cv axel itself isnt too bad. Getting the axel out of the hub was tricky at first. Atfirst we we pumped on a wrench with a 4 foot cheater on a bolt on axel pusher to try to push it out, it worked but.... The second was so much easier. Just pb blast it for a while the bang it with a brass shaft and a 16# sledge and it was out in a few seconds.

 

Install was a snap. grease all the connections before you put it together, makes life so easy!

 

Honestly its a tough job. If you have the space, ingenuity and tools. Its an easy job. I wouldnt do it on the ground.

 

If you want more info let me know. I am a little buzzed right now, regardless some of it doesnt make sense but I would be happy to help anyone out doing the project. PM me with ?s

Ryan