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Alternative for stock Ignition switch


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so I was tired of replacing the stock ignition switch with another 25 year old one that was gonna eventually give me grief as well...

 

old keyed portion is still intact, and has the key left in it, so the column doesn't lock...

 

new set-up below, uses a regular push button style starter switch, and a keyed power switch (New Ford tractor part) for the Ignition circuit. I also wired in a separate switch for the accessories circuit, and the 2 lights also come on with the ACC circuit, just to let me know I'm sending power out :)

 

the red Seat Belt light is from a '72 Subaru DL...

 

control.jpg

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OK so how do I start a new post? Rucky :) I am trying to get some high rez photos of an 84 wagon and coupe straight on front and side I am doing a photo shop for my dad on a costom build sorry for thread jacking if some one could help me with starting a new post or send me the pictures I requesed I would be greatfull.

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Looks good - functional.

 

Although - why is it that you were burning out stock switches? I would be looking for a reason as that might indicate some other wiring problems. If there are too many circuits comming off the ACC side of the switch (too much current through it), maybe it's time to off-load some of that work onto relays.

 

I happen to be doing an EJ swap in a fellow member's Brat right now and we found the legendary "burnt pink plug" due to poor wiring, leaky glass, etc. We are off-loading all the EJ's wireing as well as his stereo and probably anything else we can easily move to one of these (and we replaced the ignition switch and repaired the body harness as well):

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRF-70217/

 

It can run 7 circuits - they are all relay controlled (so virtually no extra load on the ignition switch), and has auto-reset circuit breakers on the battery leads (so no need for extra fusible links, etc).

 

I mention that one since you obviously have a few :rolleyes: extra circuits going on in your rig there......

 

GD

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the ignition switches weren't burning out, it was mechanical failure inside the electrical switch... and a bit with the keyed portion as well... (the burning issue I had before was due to a noise suppressor. totally unrelated)...

 

I have a low mileage key set I could have used, but this was more fun to do :)

 

and I'm all "relayed up". can't see here, but to the left of my battery, is a fuse block, and rows of relays for all the stuff :)

build-battery-holder.jpg

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so I was tired of replacing the stock ignition switch with another 25 year old one that was gonna eventually give me grief as well...

 

old keyed portion is still intact, and has the key left in it, so the column doesn't lock...

 

new set-up below, uses a regular push button style starter switch, and a keyed power switch (New Ford tractor part) for the Ignition circuit. I also wired in a separate switch for the accessories circuit, and the 2 lights also come on with the ACC circuit, just to let me know I'm sending power out :)

 

the red Seat Belt light is from a '72 Subaru DL...

 

control.jpg

 

Nice. I like it! If my Soob gives me any electrical grief, that is what will happen to it.

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  • 3 weeks later...

okay, that keyed power switch was crap... poor quality...

 

I now have independent switches for ACC, RUN, and ING with the pushbutton starter still...

 

I also put in a large solenoid/relay for a power cut off-circuit so I don't drain my battery...... again....

 

I might have to re-do my panel, and just make a stand alone panel, and get rid of the slant console underneath it...

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if its worth anything to ya, i have a NOS Subaru switch, with 2 keys, we think its for a gen1, the connector on the back fits the stock gen 2 connector, it just has a different collar around the steering shaft.

 

 

It is a OEM Subaru, with the nice plastic black key top with the Subaru stars. I would be willing to part with it.

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