More what are these pics (RX)

[Txakura]

88 RX ea82T

 

got an idle that won't co-operate, too high, almost like the car doesn't think it's ever warmed up... stone cold goes to fast idle, at about 2200, maybe 2500, drops to 1750 when hot

 

no vacuum leaks found, cts values are good, cts connection is good (fixed)

 

car runs smoothly, no cel, no codes, timing seems right, aav ohms and voltage are good, just really wants to run, at 1750 warm ????

 

then while I'm poking around I find these two connectors, both hot with the key on, the larger one at 8+ volts, the smaller one near the AAV at 3+ volts

 

what are they?

[baccaruda]

I can't tell if they're supposed to plug into each other?

[Txakura]

I can't tell if they're supposed to plug into each other?

 

nope, thats the cool part... that would almost make sense

 

one's a 'T', the other is two horizontal blades and ends near the AAV

 

the other (T) was near the air inlet at the turbo, intertwined with the other stuff, cts lead etc - heading to nowhere

 

there are several problems here

 

1) me, I have never had one of these and I have no manual

 

2) the PO did... things... that aren't terribly clear

 

3) this is not the original engine, but a JDM (allegedly) does that mean it has that engine harness? or he swapped the one he had? no idea

 

man I have searched an read until my eyes have bled, it wants to run fast and ALSO has these mystery wires - they may have nothing to do with it

 

about to just turn the damn idle down and call it good, except none of the idle screw locations I have read seem to be there

 

is it the idle stop behind the dash pot on the passenger side facing the car, with the lock nut?

 

could this be from the PO's home made 'cold air induction'?

 

so many questions, about to just take the damn thing to Subaru and give it to the last ea82T mechanic in Idaho (George)

Edited April 1, 2010 by Txakura

[T'subaru]

nope, thats the cool part... that would almost make sense

 

one's a 'T', the other is two horizontal blades and ends near the AAV

 

the other (T) was near the air inlet at the turbo, intertwined with the other stuff, cts lead etc - heading to nowhere

 

there are several problems here

 

1) me, I have never had one of these and I have no manual

 

2) the PO did... things... that aren't terribly clear

 

3) this is not the original engine, but a JDM (allegedly) does that mean it has that engine harness? or he swapped the one he had? no idea

 

man I have searched an read until my eyes have bled, it wants to run fast and ALSO has these mystery wires - they may have nothing to do with it

 

about to just turn the damn idle down and call it good, except none of the idle screw locations I have read seem to be there

 

is it the idle stop behind the dash pot on the passenger side facing the car, with the lock nut?

 

could this be from the PO's home made 'cold air induction'?

 

so many questions, about to just take the damn thing to Subaru and give it to the last ea82T mechanic in Idaho (George)

 

This should help although no electrical on body side of ecu.

http://www.ch601.org/engines.htm

[Txakura]

Thank you, I will read some more. I was surprised it wasn't a simple vacuum leak or the CTS. It acts like it is staying on the fast idle circuit. Otherwise it runs very well.

[ruparts]

nope, thats the cool part... that would almost make sense

 

one's a 'T', the other is two horizontal blades and ends near the AAV

 

the other (T) was near the air inlet at the turbo, intertwined with the other stuff, cts lead etc - heading to nowhere

 

there are several problems here

 

1) me, I have never had one of these and I have no manual

 

2) the PO did... things... that aren't terribly clear

 

3) this is not the original engine, but a JDM (allegedly) does that mean it has that engine harness? or he swapped the one he had? no idea

 

man I have searched an read until my eyes have bled, it wants to run fast and ALSO has these mystery wires - they may have nothing to do with it

 

about to just turn the damn idle down and call it good, except none of the idle screw locations I have read seem to be there

 

is it the idle stop behind the dash pot on the passenger side facing the car, with the lock nut?

 

could this be from the PO's home made 'cold air induction'?

 

so many questions, about to just take the damn thing to Subaru and give it to the last ea82T mechanic in Idaho (George)

 

Hi,

Two things, first does the accelerator cable have slack in it when at idle?

if its too tight , it cannot return all the way to idle. the dash pot you mentioned is not the idle adj, it is on the throttle body, rear side facing up, just a screw head in a recess, that is the warm idle speed adj, fast idle is a real small screw going horizontal on the back side of throttle body, it is for the fast idle, as in a/c on , not the cold start to warm up speed, i think that is computer controlled and not adjustable.

[Txakura]

accel cable is not holding it open, checked that

 

idle screw does nothing all the way in, nor backed off many turns

 

if it were carbbed I'd say it was getting it's air somewhere else

 

I went through a whole can of carb spray and found nothing at the throttle body, or the intake manifold (all the plugs are uniform too) or any hose connection, pcv or vacuum

 

looking at the diagram in the FSM (from the above post), the screw all the way in should have restricted the air flow - but it isn't even in the game, something else is going on

 

so... AAV sticking open? guess I could disconnect it and cap everything when the engine is hot and see what it does

 

no bites on the connectors?

[eulogious]

I PM'ed ya... I think it might be the AAV, do the AAV test by pinching the hose coming from the AAV...

[Txakura]

I PM'ed ya... I think it might be the AAV, do the AAV test by pinching the hose coming from the AAV...

 

yepper, we're going to squish it today after it gets good and warmed on the way to work - got my fingers crossed

[Txakura]

%$#@$#$#%^&*(*

 

it didn't do anything to pinch it off, the idle screw is still run all the way in too... 1750 warm, all the time

 

guess I'll check the TPS and see what it's doing, the FSM has good info on that, maybe call Subaru dealer shop and see if they have any free words of advice... (one of the mechanics has an ea82t coupe)

 

there is still that stop screw and lock nut for the throttle bellcrank, but adjusting that seems like treating the symptom and not the cause (assuming the PO hasn't tampered with that)

 

Oy Vey.

[Gloyale]

The two connectors are for the EGR solenoid and the EVAP solenoid.

 

If you're intake doens't have an EGR don't worry about that one. (the "T" IIRC)

 

but the other should be hooked up to the solenoid that is inline between Fuel vent and the Charcoal canister. Not the cause of the idle problem though.

 

It's either a vac leak in the PCV hoses (get new hose, 19/32's EVAP hose, clamp the ends. Make sure you have a turbo PCV installed)

 

Or it;s a faulty AAV. UNscrew it from the top of the thermostat. Leav it plugged in to the harness. You can plug the lines to and from it....that should lower the idle while you test.

 

Start the car and watch the valve in the AAV....If it hasn't closed in about 5 mins, it's bad. Same test can be done by simply putting 12v to it for a few minutes if you don't want to test on the car.

[Txakura]

The two connectors are for the EGR solenoid and the EVAP solenoid.

 

If you're intake doens't have an EGR don't worry about that one. (the "T" IIRC)

 

but the other should be hooked up to the solenoid that is inline between Fuel vent and the Charcoal canister.

 

 

Yep, you nailed it. I was able to look under the hood of another car and my solenoids are missing. Which makes me wonder how the vacuum is connected right now. (?) Or why the ecu isn't throwing a fit because they are gone (?)

[Txakura]

Ok. I got the suggestion that I go to the TPS, loosen the screws and slide it while listening to the idle. I went one way and she sped up, another and it dropped. It dropped about 500 rpm. I twiddled with the idle speed screw and shed another 250 rpm.

 

I road tested it and found that I had made a new problem with surging, so I played with it again and it smoothed out on the road and I have a sane idle.

 

So thanks to everyone that chipped in, while I made this a lot harder than it had to be

 

I connected the green clips and double checked the timing, pulled the air intake and cleaned all the pcv residue out of it and cleaned the MAF while I was there.

 

It seems I have a smoothly running happy car

[eulogious]

Good to hear you fixed it! Luckily all it cost you was time as well. Glad it worked out for you!

[monstaru]

remember, there just little jap cars...don't overthink it:)cheers, brian

[Txakura]

remember, there just little jap cars...don't overthink it:)cheers, brian

 

part of the problem is that I keep expecting things to be worse than they are, that everything is broken until proven trustworthy - but I think you hit it on the head Brian, totally 'worst casing' everything... and doing the newbish thing, where a little knowledge (FSM) spins weird directions and elaborate theories

 

but, at the end of the day, it's that first leap that puts it in focus and makes for the steepest part of the learning curve

 

and now the idle, water pump, and rad are squared away, I can work on foo-foo like some tunes and some detailing