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91 Loyale front hub castle nut. HELP!!!


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I am trying to replace the front inside CV boot and can not get the castle nut loose. This is on a 91 Loyale 1.8, 5sp, 4wd. Is this possibly a left hand thread? I am useing a 1/2" drive 36mm socket and a breaker bar, with a prybar through the studs for the lugnuts to keep the hub from turning and have gone as far as putting a jack under my breaker bar and still it will not break loose.:eek: HELP!!! it's my daily driver and surfmobile and I need to get Rubie back on the road ASAP. Thanks for any advice I get. Love this site and my Rubie. I am new here.

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The axle nut is NOT left hand thread... righty tighty-lefty loosie.

 

Put tire on less center rim cap if it has one, lower car till weight on tire and loosen nut. Yes, at least 1/2" drive with some pipe slid down handle as a cheater, just stand out on the end of the 3 or 4 ft cheater and it will loosen. Sounds like it was over done a bit on the torque.

 

If for some reason you can't put the tire on: I use a piece of ply wood, about 14" wide x 20" tall. (cut to fit) After car is jacked to height I rest the board against the hub and drill 4 holes to match the studs and a center hole for the socket to slide in onto the axle nut. I slip the board on with board just touching the ground and use this as a jamming tool (no bar across studs to hold back) I can loosen or tighten axle nut with car in the air. Quick, simple and it works.

 

welcome to the site.

Edited by Indrid cold
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You need one of these:

 

http://www.amazon.com/Cooled-36mm-Axle-Removal-Tool/dp/B001CTJQLW

 

Any VW parts house or shop should have one for about $10. You slip it over the nut and beat on it with a small sledge or heavy hammer, etc. Even a claw hammer will work. You have to move it 90 degree's every few degree's of rotation to avoid the studs but it removes axle nuts like nothing else. I have NEVER seen the axle nut this won't remove. Subaru 36's are set to 145 ft/lbs. This is designed for VW bus rear axle nuts which are torqued to 250 ft/lbs. I use it every time I go to the junk yard - it's light, small and works 100% of the time with almost no effort.

 

You are close to me - Discount Import Parts in Beaverton has them for $8. They are right off Hall Blvd. by Washington Sqaure.

 

GD

Edited by GeneralDisorder
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Thanks everyone for your suggestions, I really appreciate it. I will try these tomorrow and see how it goes. I will take some pics and document this process. and will also get to Discount Import Parts and buy that tool, thanks DG. Thanx Indrid Cold "Lefty Loosie" for the great ideas.

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With the car on the ground-

 

Have someone hold the brake pedal down, HARD. Then use a long pipe or something over the breaker bar(at least 4 feet). The threads are normal, not reverse. Turn the nut counterclockwise to loosen it.

 

Having someone hold the brake pedal down keeps all of that torque from seeing the cv's, trans and differential.

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try some heat and pb blaster. you can also insert a screwdriver between the caliper wndow and the rotor vents to hold the whole works still.

 

the easiest thing to do would be to loosen the nut with the wheel still bolted to the hub and all the weight of the car on the wheel, brake set, in gear.

 

you just may need a good 4 ft long pipe to slip over your breaker bar.

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