88 GL distributor not turning

[WASHroad]

Saweeetness, well or something like that. Just glad to have the new wagon in the garage. This is my first Subaru so I have alot to learn. What I have is a '88 GL that isn't running. There is 145K on the wagon and all looks normal. Haven't checked the compression yet, but it wasn't getting spark so I started there. Pulled the cap and the rotor seems to be frozen on the dist. shaft.

Couldn't work it off or pry it off, so I thought I would spin it around to see if I could get a better angle on it to pull it off. Only then I found out the distributor shaft dosen't turn. The distributor is locked into the drive gear because I can't turn the rotor by hand. But it dosen't turn over with the engine? I was hoping for some help on this first problem. I was told the car had been runnning but sometimes missing, then just died-- wander why-- any ideas??? Thanks

[The Beast I Drive]

You have a broken timing belt on the driver side. Pretty common on the EA82 motors, there is a lot of info on how to fix it if you do some searching.

 

-Bill

[WoodsWagon]

Yup, broken timing belt.

 

Oh, and the reason the rotor won't pull off of the distributor shaft is because there is a phillips screw that holds it in. It threads in at a 90 degree angle to the shaft. If the screw isn't tight, it falls out and the rotor can freespin on the shaft, so when you do replace it make sure you do the screw up tight.

[rxleone]

Definitely a broken belt. Easy fix, and when you do it - leave the covers off. Turns a 3 hour job into a half hour job

[WASHroad]

well thanks for the fix. So you run it without the covers? Are the belts that common to go out?

I even got a rat dirty Haynes manual with the wagon.

I really miss not having an OME Service Manual. Guess now that I have a certian year, I can start shopping around for one. Not sure if I can get to it today, Easter and all. Will review some search threads for the repair.

[zyewdall]

Well.... the broken timing belts are quite common, because no one ever seems to replace them at the recommended intervals... especially on one you don't know the history on, assume that the timing belt was last changed 150k ago and will break two days after you buy it... Easy to change though, once you dig down there. Also, you might want to check the idler pullys and idler gear for the timing belt... I had the idler gear seize, and shred a belt that only had 35k miles on it. If the engine has 200k on the original idlers, it's probably time for new ones.

[WASHroad]

I don't have any history on the GL, the speedo show 145K. By the looks of things I would guess that correct. Plan is to get it going and see how the thing runs after that.

[WASHroad]

So I got a little done today, just got the covers off and found the broken timing belt. Also found a leaking waterpump. Looks like the cam shaft seals are leaking also. Think I might as well replace all that while I got it torn down. Most people just use Auto Zone or Shucks or Napa for parts? Off to get prices..

[WASHroad]

Here is a shot after I pushed it into the garage:

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Dirty interior, but what do you want for $350

 

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Edited April 6, 2010 by WASHroad
lost pic

[MilesFox]

napa will be better about parts availablility.

 

i'll bet that was the factory original timing belt, which usually holds out till about 140,000 miles before they let go, with my experiences.

 

do the cam and crank seal while you are there. a new water pump will be the single most important part for the longevity of the engine(cooling system)