LostintheRain Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 (edited) i have blown head gasget on my 86 gl wagon. am wanting to know is there anything special i should know before i pull the motor to change them. or is there away to change them with out pulling the motor? Edited April 6, 2010 by LostintheRain adding more info and questions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lkindred Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 what engine EA-82? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 They can be done in the car - you will want at least a 10mm ratcheting box wrench for the driver's side valve cover. Make sure you don't have a blown intake manifold gasket before you tear it down. Lots of folks mistake these for head gasket failure. Same with carb base gaskets, and air in the cooling system. It's easier if you pull the engine - very hard on your back if you don't. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostintheRain Posted April 7, 2010 Author Share Posted April 7, 2010 i am getting the chocolate milk oil/water mix up into the air cleaner and into the carbrator. i had already plan pulling the motor was just wondering if there was away not to. so do you think it might be something else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 pulling the motor is the way to go. it will come out within an hour, and will save you loads of time working between the framerails, and much frustration when assembling the cam towers and followers. and if you are doing one head gasket, do both. remember you have steel bolts going into aluminum threads, so be careful not to over-torque. plus, having the otor out of the car gives you the chance to do the rear seals if need be. its a rather simple motor to work on, its just different than anything most folks are used to. if you want to avoid pulling the motor, just remove the nuts from the engine mounts-to-crossmember, the pitch bar at the top of the bellhousing, and jack up the trans to raise the engine a good 4 inches for better access. if you decide to yank the motor from there, just sling a crane and undo the 4 bellhousing nuts and out she comes. you will perform a better quality job and have better control of your torque wrench if you have an engine stand to use Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 i am getting the chocolate milk oil/water mix up into the air cleaner and into the carbrator. i had already plan pulling the motor was just wondering if there was away not to. so do you think it might be something else? Yes - it's probably just a plugged up PCV system or bad intake manifold gaskets. If it's not overheating or losing a ton of coolant then it's not head gaskets. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostintheRain Posted April 8, 2010 Author Share Posted April 8, 2010 i bought the hole car for 120 and it was suppost to have a good running motor. but every time i start it it runs great until it warms up and then its like everything clogs up and starts coughin up the water/oil mix. and will not stay running unless you have the about 1500 rpms so if ya think not the headgasgets i will in be better shape. so how do i unclog the pcv valve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobiedubie Posted April 17, 2010 Share Posted April 17, 2010 Tighten up the cylinder head bolts first, if they are loose, without removing the camshaft, before you attempt to tear down the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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