phantomcrooner Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 Hmm... It wont idle and stay running unless the throttle adjust screw is adjusted all the way down, then it idles at about 2k. If i start to take off it will stumble and act like its either flooded or robbed of fuel, hesitating and surging until it reaches about 3500 rpm via stomping on the accelerator peddle. ONCE IT REACHES 3500 RPM, IT TAKES OFF LIKE A BAT OUT OF HELL. If i stomp on it to get it past that threshold it will accelerate like I'm at the strip and Ken Block is in the next lane and she has something to prove. This is fine for using a lot of fuel and being the obnoxious jackass who drives like he's at the races everywhere he goes. After I get up to speed and let off the accelerator to drive at a sustained speed i have to keep it in a lower gear with the rpms at about 4k to keep it running smooth, otherwise it will start surging and loosing speed. I am hoping that someone has a clue about this as I am at this point, clueless. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 What is your intake setup? Sounds to me like you have a major unmetered air leak. You should try plugging the hose that goes to the IAC (should be a big 3/4" line that goes from the intake tube to the IAC, about 9" long) Check all the other PCV hoses and your brake booster hose if you have one. (if not cap that off) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phantomcrooner Posted April 9, 2010 Author Share Posted April 9, 2010 I made sure all vacuum lines were good, no leaks, i thought it may have been the TPS, so i switched it out, no improvement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 10, 2010 Share Posted April 10, 2010 Again, PLUG the IAC hose and see if it changes. If it does, then you know you're IAC Isn't working properly. Check the middle wire at the IAC plug for 12 Volts when the IG is on and the test light grounded. Then ,test between the middle wire and each of the others and you should get 4-7 volts at each during warm up(ECU varies the opening of the valve by adjusting the voltage though the ground side of the circuit. One is "open" the other is closed") If that is good, then the problem is in the valve itself. A bad IAC vavle will "pull" open just from manifold vacuum so if it doesn;t work you get a high idle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Txakura Posted April 11, 2010 Share Posted April 11, 2010 MY ea82T did exactly this when my throttle position sensor, TPS, was out of adjustment. I cannot speak for the EJ, but the problem sounds identical. In my case, I loosened the screws holding the TPS just enough to slide it one way then the other until I found the right place to 1) idle correctly (sliding one way made the idle drop, another made it increase) and 2) road test until the stumble was gone. Could this be similar on the EJ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phantomcrooner Posted April 22, 2010 Author Share Posted April 22, 2010 Well crud, i checked the IAC and it appears to be working fine, the reason it wouldn't idle is that the timing on the passenger side cam was off by 3 cogs. I fixed that and it idles perfect, but will die if you even touch the throttle until it warms up, then it still has same problem of bogging down until it gets to 3k rpm then it takes off at a mad dash. I have to get it t about 3k then let the clutch out, which is burning my clutch and tires at every takeoff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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