Rx Head gasket

[Bandit987]

yeah EA head gaskets are easy, turbo and turbo exhaust can be annoying though.

 

yes, head gasket bolt torque procedures are absolutely necessary for a reason. all head bolts are like that as far as i know. there's a very specific order to it as well. follow those exactly. for that matter heads should be machine for a nice clean surface and the block cleaned well too.

 

looks like you already bought the gasket kit but I would recommend, as many folks on here do, using the Fel Pro permatorque head gaskets for this engine. Most of us add a final torque step and add 5-10 pounds to the final value in the manuals. that should be called the USMB head job. low grade head gaskets are known to be problematic in other applications, i wouldn't think about anything else on this motor.

 

yours being no-name brand i don't know what to say - but Subaru FSM and the Chiltons should say to retorque the head bolts...but on a cheap-o gasket like that i'm wondering if it matters!?? LOL if you end up doing it that way, don't seal up the cam carriers the first time, leave them clean and dry. install head gaskets, install cams, valve covers and start motor. when you retorque, then seal the cam carrier. no point in sealing it and cleaning it twice.

 

other than the Fel Pro's, all the other EA82 head gaskets i'm aware of have to be retorqued which is a annoying.

 

When you say putting that stuff on and start the motor , do you mean everything? As if I was going to drive it? And by clean and dry do you mean no oil and coolant, also how long do I leave it on for? I do plan on using the no name brand, like I said I'm broke right now and I need to settle for that.

 

Right now I'm in the process of cleaning the old gasket off the block/heads/intake/exhaust. Plan is right now to try to put the heads back tomorrow. Just want to make sure I understand it right, because if that's that you guys do, ill listen

[Turbone]

Theres more to it then just slapping on a few parts before you can start it.

Have you got a new water pump?

How about a rebuild kit for the oil pump? (about $30 from the dealer)

New timing belts and tenshioners?

You may not need all of it, but the peace of mind of having these parts replaced and not having to go back and do it down the road is nice.

If you want to test it to see if it starts and runs, you need all that on.

But the radiator and alternator dont need to be hooked up.

Yes, you can run it for a minute without water. But thats it.

Do you know the procedure for installing the timing belts yet?

[idosubaru]

Do you know what retorquing the heads means? It seems like you don't since you didn't understand what I already explained? Like Turbone said you have to completely assemble the engine and fill it with oil and coolant, that stuff is necessary and not going to come out (not much) when retorquing anyway, so it doesn't save you anything to not do it. Like he said you can run an engine without coolant but that sounds dangerous and I don't think you'll get it up to proper temps for a retorque, but I really have no clue since I'm not overly familiar with retorquing.

 

After assembling and running the engine for a certain length of time, then you disassemble the engine again to retorque:

 

To save yourself some hassle install the CAM CARRIERS the first time around (right now) without any sealant since you'll be removing them again soon. You'll only run the engine for a short period of time, no point in sealing those, but I'd install the orings.

 

Then seal them after retorquing the head bolts.

 

If you're not going to retorque for some reason, then none of this matters, but I thought EA82's require retorque per the FSM.

Edited May 21, 2010 by grossgary

[Bandit987]

Theres more to it then just slapping on a few parts before you can start it.

Have you got a new water pump?

How about a rebuild kit for the oil pump? (about $30 from the dealer)

New timing belts and tenshioners?

You may not need all of it, but the peace of mind of having these parts replaced and not having to go back and do it down the road is nice.

If you want to test it to see if it starts and runs, you need all that on.

But the radiator and alternator dont need to be hooked up.

Yes, you can run it for a minute without water. But thats it.

Do you know the procedure for installing the timing belts yet?

 

The only thing I have not done is the oil pump rebuild.

Yeah I had already installed the belts/tenstioners and idler not more than 3 weeks before the head gasket blew.

Yes I made sure to read up on the miles fox timing belt procedure, had my buddy(who is a smog tech) check to see if my timing was good and it was.

 

If it was one of you guys, would you just wait and buy a Fel pro gasket?

[Bandit987]

Most of us add a final torque step and add 5-10 pounds to the final value in the manuals.

 

I just borrowed some money and bought some fel pro gaskets, last question, by final valve do you mean, go 5 pounds on each bolt after the last torque pattern?

 

I lied another question, is there a torque rating for the cam carrier bolts?

Edited May 23, 2010 by Bandit987

[Bandit987]

sweet deal on the gasket set. retail price is towards 150.

 

pull the whole engine, it will make the effort much easier. go ahead and do a new water pump (short pump, 105mm, bolts instead of studs) and replace the oil pump o-rings.

 

I bolted the new water pump and its 1/4 to 1/2 inch of the crank pulley. Any ideas? The one I bought was from ebay and it was the 105mm.