coylethebarbarian Posted April 19, 2010 Share Posted April 19, 2010 I've read through Snowman's and GD's conversion manuals and I know they predominately deal with the Manual Transmission SPFI. Here's what I have: An EA81 Carbed 86 RHD Brat, Manual Transmission. My donar is an 89 gl Wagon SPFI...but it's an Auto! When everything is stripped/hooked up and ready to go-will the ECU work with the Manual Transmission? Providing I hook up all neutral sensors, etc, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted April 19, 2010 Share Posted April 19, 2010 It is my understanding that the transmission in 89s were not computer controlled.So therefore the ecu just needs something to tell it if the car is gear or not.I am working on striping a harness from an 89 FWD GL auto.It might be different but it looks like the brake needed to be pressed to start the car.Or it might need the assortment of inhibitor switches and whatever that autos have. However, I think the inhibitor switch on the ECU is grounded if auto and open if manual.So if there is voltage/continuty on that pin computer thinks its a auto,if not, then computer thinks its a manual. But then I don't know much maybe the FWD autos are different from 4wd autos.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
84gl Posted April 19, 2010 Share Posted April 19, 2010 yes but i think you have loop or cross over the switch that was on auto shifter i had to but it depends on the donor car mine was a 89 gl-10 spfi 4eat 2wd with power seat belts and a diggy dash not the best donor but my brat runs fine away Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coylethebarbarian Posted April 19, 2010 Author Share Posted April 19, 2010 Thanks guys, I'm off to pull the SPFI and the 3.9 LSD! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted April 19, 2010 Share Posted April 19, 2010 Actually I don't think you will have to do anything special. The inhibitor switch system is in the crank circuit - thus once the harness is stripped of everything not relating to the SPFI this is removed and you'll be using the Brat's crank circuit which should work fine. The only question mark for me is the kickdown system - I don't know if the ECU would throw a code or not for the kickdown relay, etc. Of course you could easily fool it by installing a 5 watt resistor of appropriate resistance to make it think it was controlling a relay. If that's all that is needed then it actually might work out better than the MT ECU's since they need the neutral switch similulated and that's not as easy. But here's the coolest part - even if the auto ECU doesn't work out like you would like - just install a manual ECU. They are 100% compatible and all you would have to do is insure you have a wire in the right pin for the neutral switch (easy - they are removable) and you would be golden. So worst-case scenario: change the ECU. Every other component is going to work the same. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coylethebarbarian Posted April 19, 2010 Author Share Posted April 19, 2010 Sweet! Thanks GD! Oh, so I've been out pulling the fuel pump and the lines...the mounting "shelf" for the fuel pump is a chunk of rust-crumbles if I squeeze my fingers together at all...and all the soft are dry rotted and the hard lines are rusted through. I'd have replaced the soft lines anyway but was hoping to save some of the hard lines. Looks like I'll be fashioning a mounting bracket/shelf for the fuel pump and getting all new high pressure fuel lines. One last note, the fuel pump on the automatic as on the passenger's side. On the RHD Brat, the fuel pump/shelf is on the left side. Is this due to some different configurations on a RHD vehicle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted April 19, 2010 Share Posted April 19, 2010 Top the OP: You Don't have to replace ALL lines with high pressure stuff.The fuel return and the vapor lines can be just stock carb stuff.or new carb line if yours is old and rotted out. Some might say to replace all the lines but the return usually doesn't have any pressure in it.Same with the Vapor line. Just one way to help you save a bit of money.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coylethebarbarian Posted April 20, 2010 Author Share Posted April 20, 2010 Top the OP: You Don't have to replace ALL lines with high pressure stuff.The fuel return and the vapor lines can be just stock carb stuff.or new carb line if yours is old and rotted out. Some might say to replace all the lines but the return usually doesn't have any pressure in it.Same with the Vapor line. Just one way to help you save a bit of money.. Thanks, that will save some cash Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 You don't have to replace any of the hard lines. Just the soft stuff. Brat fuel pumps are always on the left and SPFI fuel pumps are always on the right. That's normal. I use the stock Brat shelf and modifiy it to hold the SPFI pump - usually just cut one of the pump mounting studs off and mount the SPFI pump using its existing mounting band and rubber isolators. GD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coylethebarbarian Posted April 21, 2010 Author Share Posted April 21, 2010 You don't have to replace any of the hard lines. Just the soft stuff. Brat fuel pumps are always on the left and SPFI fuel pumps are always on the right. That's normal. I use the stock Brat shelf and modifiy it to hold the SPFI pump - usually just cut one of the pump mounting studs off and mount the SPFI pump using its existing mounting band and rubber isolators. GD Thanks, will do! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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