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92 loyale quit on my daughter.


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Yesterday, my daughter was driving her 92 loyale and she down shifted . The car bucked and then quit. We had to coast to the side of the road and then have it towed because it won't start now. I have no timing covers, so I checked for a jumped belt and they wer right on the money. It seems that there is no spark now. Any ideas or advice for trouble shooting this problem would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks

 

Mike

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Rotor is tight and I am not sure if the fuel pump is pumping at this time. I was trying to diagnose on the side of the road.

 

My best friend is trouble shooting it for me and i will let you know what we find.

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Got it fixed!!!!

 

 

Some idiot tried to do something to the ignition wiring at some point and they wrapped the wires with electrical tape TOGETHER. I found the bulge in the harness and when I touched it we heard the fuel pump cycle. I unwrapped the bundle and found the bare wires all next to one alnother. Evidently when the car bucked, they touched and the engine meter fuse blew. i wrapped each wire independantly and replaced the fuse and VOILA the car is running again. I am continually amazed at what some guys will try to do to a car. Sme guys ahould have all of their wrenches taken away.

 

Thanks for the pointers guys.

 

Mike

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Got it fixed!!!!

 

 

Some idiot tried to do something to the ignition wiring at some point and they wrapped the wires with electrical tape TOGETHER. I found the bulge in the harness and when I touched it we heard the fuel pump cycle. I unwrapped the bundle and found the bare wires all next to one alnother. Evidently when the car bucked, they touched and the engine meter fuse blew. i wrapped each wire independantly and replaced the fuse and VOILA the car is running again. I am continually amazed at what some guys will try to do to a car. Sme guys ahould have all of their wrenches taken away.

 

Thanks for the pointers guys.

 

Mike

 

hey now i always modify my ignition... you would too if you saw someone get into your ru with a toyota key:eek:

 

i install a push button and kills witch on every rig

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But, I'm sure you don't tape up exposed wires right next to one another. What a bone headed thing to do. I'm glad we found it now and not when we are a few miles into the woods during hunting season.

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There are lots of folks around here who's idea of a proper wireing splice is to twist the wires together and wrap them in e-tape.

 

Proper splices are done with solder and heat shrink. Occasionally you might need to use a crimp connector but if I have to use one of those I pack the open ends with RTV then wrap them in tape to seal them against corrosion.

 

Just wait till the majority of the EJ swaps that have been done reach a few years old. Wireing nightmare!

 

GD

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There are lots of folks around here who's idea of a proper wireing splice is to twist the wires together and wrap them in e-tape.

 

Proper splices are done with solder and heat shrink. Occasionally you might need to use a crimp connector but if I have to use one of those I pack the open ends with RTV then wrap them in tape to seal them against corrosion.

 

Just wait till the majority of the EJ swaps that have been done reach a few years old. Wireing nightmare!

 

GD

 

+1000 to what he said, especially on wires inside the engine bay, or that deal with vital functions of the car, ie ECU connections, TCU connectins, ect. Granted I am guilty of using wire nuts on the inside of the car, but I always use the proper size wire nut, and also hold the wires together with a zip tie after tightening the wire nut, just so you can't pull the wires apart. Really the only time to use wire nuts is on non important things, and if there are a TON of wires to connect. When I installed my remote start and converted my power door looks, I had to add 9 relays to my car, with 5 wires apiece. That would have taken forever to solder. So I wire nutted it up, and it's been great. I have also used this same wirenut method before and it hasn't failed me. But I only do this on the INSIDE of the car were there is no moisture and it's not as critical. Anything in the engine bay or dealing with the engine and trans, solder and heat shrink are the ONLY way to go no matter how many wires and how much time it takes.

 

Gotta love all the hack jobs out there :rolleyes:

 

Glad it got it going and that it was an "easy" fix!

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I could have understood a twist and e tape job. This was and actual solder job at differing points along the wires and then group taping them hoping the exposed wires wouldn't touch each other. It failed. Now each wire is individually insulated against the other and this won't happen again.

 

 

 

There are lots of folks around here who's idea of a proper wireing splice is to twist the wires together and wrap them in e-tape.

 

Proper splices are done with solder and heat shrink. Occasionally you might need to use a crimp connector but if I have to use one of those I pack the open ends with RTV then wrap them in tape to seal them against corrosion.

 

Just wait till the majority of the EJ swaps that have been done reach a few years old. Wireing nightmare!

 

GD

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Just wait till the majority of the EJ swaps that have been done reach a few years old. Wireing nightmare!

 

GD

 

Not mine. Solder on everything.

 

And good rubber insulation where harness goes through the bulkhead.

 

 

I ran into a similar problem on a customer car once. The guy couldn't figure out why his brake light fuse kept blowing. It had me a bit stumped too. Untill he told me HE installed a new 3rd brake light about a year ago.

 

Pulled it and found the wires twisted toghether, unwrapped, laying on the bare metal car body.

 

DUHHH!!!!!!!

 

Good news is that this bone head was dating a really cool girl at the time and I got to meet her. When she finally realized what a weiner he was, she ended up coming to my shop for her car and we ended up falling in love.

 

So some dumb electrical fixes actually do have a positive outcome.

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