subarurage Posted April 24, 2010 Share Posted April 24, 2010 Hi, I have a 1992 loyal that runs like crap when I start it up but after it warms up runs just fine. cold running symptoms: It won't idle or it just barely idle. has a huge dead spot in it when you try to accelerate. Thanks in advance, David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eulogious Posted April 24, 2010 Share Posted April 24, 2010 I would check the IAC (idle air control), and then the CTS (cooling temp sensor). If you do a search for both of these should be lots of threads explaining how to check them. Check those first, and then post back the results and if it fixed it or not. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T'subaru Posted April 25, 2010 Share Posted April 25, 2010 same issue with my rx, it has an aav aux air valve that was plugged off. ran horrible until warmed up then ran great. ( turbo ea82 ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarurage Posted May 5, 2010 Author Share Posted May 5, 2010 (edited) Hey, Here is an update. I haven't had much time to look at things but found two things that looked wrong. One of the hoses that goes to the valve cover from air intake boot was not connected. What I believe is the CTS (it is righ had a very corroded connection on the wire that comes off it. So I connected the hose up and cleaned the CTS wire connection which probably wasn't getting a connection before I cleaned the connection. Some other symptons I failed to mention in my initial post (sorry). 1. It wouldn't started warm or cold with out lightly pumping the gas pedal at start up. If it failed to start the first time you would then have to "floor it" to get it to start. This problem is NOW FIXED. It fires right up warm or cold but then dies if it is cold. 2. My check engine light comes on after I drive for a little bit and PO said it was the O2 sensor. It still won't idle when cold. When it is cold you can rev it up fine but as soon as you start to put torque to the engine (let out the clutch) it tries to dye and will buck as you try to start off. I have a repair book on order and hopefully soon will have more time to work on it. I also have a O2 sensor on order to. I also sprayed the inside of the throttle body and what I believe is the idle air controller the thing on the front of the throttle body that has hoses and a wire connected to it with Carb cleaner. One other thing is it sat all winter which I now isn't that good. Thanks for the help boyz. Edited May 6, 2010 by subarurage typos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted May 6, 2010 Share Posted May 6, 2010 Did it run fine before winter? Good chance your gas has gone bad. Try adding some fuel conditioner and see if the situation improves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarurage Posted May 7, 2010 Author Share Posted May 7, 2010 I didn't own it then so I don't really know. I have ran a two-ish tanks through it and on the recent tank I put in some fuel system cleaner. I have only put a few kilometers on this recent tank with the system cleaner. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarurage Posted July 17, 2010 Author Share Posted July 17, 2010 Now that it is summer It runs better when "cold" but I have a feeling that as soon as the cold temps hit I will be back to poor running. I have replaced the 02 sensor. I still get the check engine light coming on after I drive it a bit. There is still slight hesitation almost like it cutting out but not that bad when I give it lots of gas. It stills seems to have lot of power for a 1.8 litre. I guess we will wait until next winter to sort out cold running issue. I have run some gas drier and injector cleaner through it. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eulogious Posted July 17, 2010 Share Posted July 17, 2010 If you are getting the CEL, then you should try to pull the codes off of it. That should give you some indication of what's going on. Have you tried to test the IAC? I would test it to see if it is actually working or not. All you have tried is to "clean" it correct? I would test it and see if it's actually doing anything at all. Sounds like it's not... Have you tested the CTS as well? You should test it with a DMM to make sure it works as well. Pull the codes, test the IAC, and test the CTS. You should be able to search and find out how to do all of these. They are all simple test, so it should take you long to do. Let us know, and good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarurage Posted July 18, 2010 Author Share Posted July 18, 2010 Hey Eulogious, Thanks for that. I will test those components. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarurage Posted August 4, 2010 Author Share Posted August 4, 2010 Hey, Another update! I finally got around to reading my codes that are turning on my CEL. 21 CTS I do get a build of green corrosion on the wire connection to the CTS 31 Throttle position sensor 35 Purge control solenoid valve As soon as I figure out how to get a resistant reading from my Multimeter I will be checking the the coolant temp sensor. Will update but two kids ages 3 and 5 keep me pretty busy. Thanks Boyz/Girlz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eulogious Posted August 4, 2010 Share Posted August 4, 2010 My money would be riding on the CTS being funky... Good luck with the DMM Let us know what you find out man! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarurage Posted August 22, 2010 Author Share Posted August 22, 2010 (edited) Good job Eulogious and others!!! PROBLEM SOLVED!! It was the CTS causing the poor running and no idle at cold start up. I replaced it and took it for a drive this morning and runs like a dream. I pulled a MAJOR BONE HEAD KNUCKLE DRAGGING :mad:move when installing new CTS. I over tightened the CTS so much that it snapped off leaving the threaded half in the the engine block and the other end with sensor attached dangling from the wire. :mad:I was able to stick the sensor back in its hole and use some aluminum tape to hold it in place and it seems to work. So my next question is how do I get the threaded end out of the block. I know chastise me all you want it was such a rookie move. I don't know what I was thinking tightening a piece of copper that tight. So one problem solved and another one created:mad: Oh yes the green corrosion I thought was on the CTS was really on the coolant temp dash board gauge sensor wire. Edited August 22, 2010 by subarurage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarurage Posted October 27, 2010 Author Share Posted October 27, 2010 I was able to use a easy out to get broken sensor out. It was a piece of cake:grin: I still get the Purge control solenoid valve code even after replacing it with a new one (I should have done GD solution) So car is running great but every once in a while smokes like a hell sometimes at start up and after going down hill for a while. I think I am going to sell so it fixes MY problem. Subaru's rock but not this one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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