What Is This Thing & Where Do I Get a Good One?

[Subarule]

That black plastic thing that's ported, that the guy's finger is on. It says "Hitachi" on the top (no surprise there)

 

It's in an '86 carbed 1.8L 4WD 5-spd. GL wagon. My whatever-it-is is cracked & falling apart. Sorry the two pics are not great - I grabbed them quickly with my cell phone today while the mechanic had the carb off.

 

As you're facing the hood it sits to the left of the carb.

 

I don't know what to call it when I go looking for one. The diagram under the hood, if I'm reading it right, says' "Air Control Vacuum Valve". is that the common name for it?

 

Mine was glued together some years back but I think the glue is failing. Or the crack is growing. I really need to replace it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

While it's still in place & hooked to its hoses, from a few years ago:

 

 

 

Thanks in advance.

[GeneralDisorder]

It's a vacuum valve. There is no common name for them other than that. If you want to replace it your options are a used one or a new one from the dealer.

 

Or just pull it and plug the lines. You don't need it.

 

GD

[ivantruckman]

It's a vacuum valve. There is no common name for them other than that. If you want to replace it your options are a used one or a new one from the dealer.

 

Or just pull it and plug the lines. You don't need it.

 

GD

 

 

I agree vacuum sucks

[Qman]

I agree vacuum sucks

 

LOL, it's supposed too!

[Subarule]

 

It's a vacuum valve. There is no common name for them other than that. If you want to replace it your options are a used one or a new one from the dealer.

 

Or just pull it and plug the lines. You don't need it.

 

GD

 

 

What do those vacuum lines do? If I pull & plug them then what doesn't work any more?

[GeneralDisorder]

It's complicated. But you don't need the thing - trust me.

 

GD

[Subarule]

 

It's complicated. But you don't need the thing - trust me.

 

GD

 

 

Well, OK, if you say so.....

 

One more question about it - is it part of the emissions system?

[GeneralDisorder]

In a sense, yes it is - but only in that it's a valve that opens or closes one of the metering ports on the carb to filtered air - in practice you can plug both of the metering ports on the carb and the mileage doesn't change any amount that can be noticed by my calculations.

 

Those metering ports are for the feedback computer controlled carbs - actually all of the Hitachi carbs are capable of being computer controlled - the difference is the jetting and that the feedback models have their metering ports hooked to duty solenoids and in turn to a computer and other sensors that control the airflow through those metering ports. On the non-feedback models the vacuum valves in conjunction with thermo-vacuum valves only open the metering ports once the engine has reached a specified operating temp or via other conditions like part-throttle cruise, or WOT, etc. Depending on how the vacuum system was routed.

 

Ultimately the MPG difference between feedback and non is (on paper) about 1 MPG. In the real world it's generally much less and typically doesn't even show up under most driving conditions.

 

I've driven with those ports plugged and with them open - I could detect no descernible difference in either mileage or behaviour either way.

 

Especially when talking about an older vehicle with a good amount of mileage - these components and others will stop working and replacing them is typically not cost effective. The best solution involves simplification - remove those components that were installed for reasons that didn't involve having the engine run well. In fact, removing these failed components very often results in better fuel economy and cleaner emissions since in their failed form they were a detriment to both. All you really need is the carb, the EGR, the catalytic converter, and the Air Injection System (AIS). And if you want to be "green" the absolute best way to accomplish that is to buy a brand new 3-way catalytic converter off ebay for $75 or so and have your favorite muffler shop install it into the mid-pipe. Shouldn't cost more than $50 or so for the install.

 

Just installing a NEW, modern 3-way catalyst into the mid-pipe and removing everything from the original emissions equipment besides the EGR valve and the AIS will result in less emissions than the car emitted when brand new in the '80's (Assuming the carb is jetted as it was originally and the ingition system is functioning properly). That's just the amount of improvement that has taken place in the design of catalysts over the last 30 years. From a cost/benefit analysis point of view - ditching all the orignal gear and going with a modern catalyst is both cheaper and better for the environment than fixing all that old junk.

 

GD

[Subarule]

I can't remove anything from the emissions system, or reroute things in any way - it's illegal. And licensed mechanics shop are not allowed by law to work on any vehicle that has the emissions system retrofitted in any way. That includes carburetor modifications which require a manifold reconfiguraion.

 

http://autos.yahoo.com/maintain/repairqa/exhaust_muffler/ques081_0.html

 

 

Can I get into trouble if I disconnect any of the emission controls on my engine?

 

Yes, if you get caught. No, if you don't. But if you live in an area that requires periodic emissions testing, you probably won't get past an emissions check with missing or disconnected emission controls.

 

WARNING: Federal law makes it illegal for ANYONE to tamper with, disconnect, remove or otherwise render inoperative ANY emissions-related control device. The Environmental Protection Agency and most states have actually been rather lax about enforcing this rule on motorists, but they haven't hesitated to nail professional service facilities that have been guilty of tampering. Even so, the fines can be hefty. A violation may make you liable for up to a $2,500 fine!

 

No Tampering

The federal anti-tampering law does not, however, apply to race cars that are not operated on the street, other full-time off-road vehicles, show cars that are not street driven, or vehicles not factory equipped with emission controls (most 1967 and earlier vehicles). So that exempts all antique cars, and most classic cars and muscle cars.

 

Revisions to the Clean Air Act in 1990 further broadened the definition of emissions tampering to include virtually ANY type of engine or exhaust system modification that alters what comes out the tailpipe. That means any nonstock aftermarket part that is installed on your engine must be EPA-approved and emissions legal (except on the exempt vehicles previously noted).

 

Before the law was revised in 1990, it was only illegal for professional mechanics to remove or disconnect emission control devices. There was nothing to prevent a motorist from tampering with their own vehicles. That loophole has since been plugged.

 

What Is Emissions-legal?

Any of the following may be considered emissions tampering and get you into trouble:

 

Removing the EGR valve or plugging its vacuum lines

Removing or disconnecting the PCV valve

Removing the stock air cleaner and heat riser duct plumbing

Removing the catalytic converter

Removing or disconnecting the air pump

Removing or modifying the stock distributor vacuum advance/retard

Altering the stock ignition advance mechanism or timing curve

Replacing the stock distributor with an aftermarket unit that is not emissions certified

Modifying, removing or replacing the stock computer or PROM chip with a non-certified component

Blocking the heat riser duct under the intake manifold

Knocking out the filler restrictor on the fuel tank inlet pipe

Replacing the stock non-vented gas cap with a vented cap

Removing or disconnecting the fuel vapor recovery canister

Changing the idle mixture or stock carburetor jetting

Removing or modifying the carburetor choke

Modifying or replacing the carburetor accelerator pump with non-certified components

Installing an intake manifold or racing manifold that lacks provisions for the stock EGR valve and/or a heat riser duct

Installing a carburetor that lacks the stock emission hookups

Installing non-certified fuel injectors

Installing a long duration "racing" cam that is not emissions-certified

Installing exhaust headers that lack provisions for a heat riser valve, an air cleaner preheat stove or fittings for an oxygen sensor (if required)

Installing valve covers with open breathers or no fittings for a PCV valve

Installing any induction, fuel or ignition system component that is NOT emissions legal

 

Aftermarket parts manufacturers who make nonstock performance parts for engines, the fuel, ignition or exhaust systems must apply for special certification for any parts they want to sell as being emissions-legal. The California Air Resources Board (CARB) has been the leading government body in this respect, so most submit their proposals to CARB.

 

First, they must submit detailed proof in the form of laboratory dyno test that document their part does not have an adverse effect on exhaust emissions. These tests are very expensive and must conform with specified test procedures. CARB then reviews the data and may or may not ask for additional information and/or testing. If the product meets CARB's criteria, CARB issues an "executive order" (EO) number (also called an "exemption" number) certifying that the part is in compliance with the applicable clean air rules.

 

An EO number means the component can be legally manufactured, distributed, sold and installed on a street driven vehicle in the state of California. It also means the component is legally acceptable in all 50 states because the federal Environmental Protection Agency also recognizes the CARB exemption program as meeting their "Memorandum 1A" requirements for certifying emissions legal parts.

 

Buying Emissions-legal Parts

Virtually all stock replacement parts are emissions-legal regardless of who makes them. But if you're buying any nonstock performance parts, heed the following to make sure you're "safe" from an emissions standpoint:

 

* Look for wording on the box that says the product is emissions legal or emissions certified for street use in compliance with the EPA and/or CARB rules.

 

* Look for the EO (executive order) exemption number issued by the California Air Resources Board on the box, product or in the catalog. Remember, the product must have an EO number to be street legal.

 

* If there is no EO number and one is required to be street-legal, it cannot be legally installed on a street-driven vehicle. Period.

 

 

 

States Conducting Emissions Testing

 

http://www.cabq.gov/aircare/emissiontest.html

[GeneralDisorder]

That's all well understood by myself and everyone else here. Explaining this to you so that you understand it is difficult, but I'll do the best I can.

 

The emissions equipment in place on your vehicle has to do two things and two things only (this is actual real-world stuff, not hypothetical beurocratic garbage laws that are unenforceable):

 

1. Has to pass a visual inspection.

 

2. Must function well enough to pass a tail-pipe sniffer test.

 

Here's what happens:

 

A. They open the hood and look around. They are looking for obvious stuff - disconnected lines, major components missing - EGR valve, Air Injection or smog pumps, radically different and obviously non-stock equipment like Weber carbs, etc. Most of the people that are going to be looking have no real clue what they are looking at - they have had maybe 8 hours of actual instruction and are in no way familar with what they should be seeing. Two potential outcomes here:

 

a. They see nothing out of place (most likely) and go on to step B.

 

b. They find something that disqualifies you - they say "no can do Mam - because of X - please go fix that". There are no fines, no wrist slapping, and no finger pointing. All that would be pointless. They are going to refer you to a mechanic if you ask and give you a peice of paper that says something about what they didn't like when they opened the hood. You are going to go and fix it and come back later.

 

B. They put a sniffer up the tail-pipe and do an idle and then a 2500 RPM test. Two outcomes here:

 

a. You pass - have a nice day

 

b. You don't pas - see 'b' under section A.

 

This is not the big deal that you think it is. The little plastic valve that is cracked is not even directly a peice of a emissions equipment nor is it mentioned specifically in the laws you posted, NOR can it even be seen once the air filter is in place. This just isn't a big deal - you pull it off, cap the lines and go about your daily life as before. Big brother is not going to hover over your house with blackhawk's if you yard off some broken plastic valve from your 1980's Subaru. Not going to happen. Pitch it in the dumpster and stop worring about vauge, hopelessly intricate, and impossible to enforce laws that no one is paying any attention to.

 

GD

[backcountrycrui]

Hell I cant even remember the last time an emissions test person opened the hood on one of my cars. Regardless of OBII or not (not many of my cars have it). Definately remove the unit, dont replace it. Or do the best thing possible, move to a non emissions testing area.

Mike

[Subarule]

I'm not worried about emissions testing since I'm not going to sell the car. But I want it to be in a legal condition so that a licensed shop can work on it. My mechanic shop already told me they can't work on it once it's had anything to do with the emissions modified.

[Subarule]

That's all well understood by myself and everyone else here. Explaining this to you so that you understand it is difficult, but I'll do the best I can.

 

The emissions equipment in place on your vehicle has to do two things and two things only (this is actual real-world stuff, not hypothetical beurocratic garbage laws that are unenforceable):

 

1. Has to pass a visual inspection.

 

2. Must function well enough to pass a tail-pipe sniffer test.

 

Here's what happens:

 

A. They open the hood and look around. They are looking for obvious stuff - disconnected lines, major components missing - EGR valve, Air Injection or smog pumps, radically different and obviously non-stock equipment like Weber carbs, etc. Most of the people that are going to be looking have no real clue what they are looking at - they have had maybe 8 hours of actual instruction and are in no way familar with what they should be seeing. Two potential outcomes here:

 

a. They see nothing out of place (most likely) and go on to step B.

 

b. They find something that disqualifies you - they say "no can do Mam - because of X - please go fix that". There are no fines, no wrist slapping, and no finger pointing. All that would be pointless. They are going to refer you to a mechanic if you ask and give you a peice of paper that says something about what they didn't like when they opened the hood. You are going to go and fix it and come back later.

 

B. They put a sniffer up the tail-pipe and do an idle and then a 2500 RPM test. Two outcomes here:

 

a. You pass - have a nice day

 

b. You don't pas - see 'b' under section A.

 

This is not the big deal that you think it is. The little plastic valve that is cracked is not even directly a peice of a emissions equipment nor is it mentioned specifically in the laws you posted, NOR can it even be seen once the air filter is in place. This just isn't a big deal - you pull it off, cap the lines and go about your daily life as before. Big brother is not going to hover over your house with blackhawk's if you yard off some broken plastic valve from your 1980's Subaru. Not going to happen. Pitch it in the dumpster and stop worring about vauge, hopelessly intricate, and impossible to enforce laws that no one is paying any attention to.

 

GD

 

No, no, you misunderstand. It's not the emission/inspection thing that concerns me, not at all. It's being able to have a shop work on it, for anything. See my post about that in this thread about that.

 

It's all well & good for the people who can work on their own & others' cars and the legality doesn't enter into it, but some of us have to depend on state-licensed shops.

[GeneralDisorder]

I'm not worried about emissions testing since I'm not going to sell the car. But I want it to be in a legal condition so that a licensed shop can work on it. My mechanic shop already told me they can't work on it once it's had anything to do with the emissions modified.

 

Then find a good honest board member in your area to work on it. Likely you are being ripped off by these people anyway.

 

Besides that - they are just trying to rob you blind by saying something like that. If there is no paper trail that *they* removed the stuff then they are not liable for it or it's replacement - they can still legally work on the car - all they have to do legally is tell you they noticed that it's been modified, that they didn't do it, and that you *should* fix it. Obviously if they *know* about it then you will have to go somewhere else to have it tested, etc - but there are plenty of places that can and will do that without ever having seen your car in the past.

 

Your best bet is to post in this section of the forum for someone in your area to work on the car that is local to you. There are lots of members here from WA that would love to make a few extra $$ on the side doing whatever needs done.

 

Your shop is on a high-horse and see's you as a money maker - instead of doing the right thing for the customer they have given you some line about how it must be done to "federal standards" or some big-brother men-in-black are going to show up and throw them all in the slammer for helping an elderly lady get her 30 year old car running halfway decent by tossing off a few antiquated components that can't be sourced...... they are being tight-asses and it shows. The *spirt of the law* is to keep the emissions clean and I don't disagree with that on a fundamental level - but it can be accomplished in a variety of ways and some are MUCH less expensive for the customer. At the end of the day if there is no paper trail then there is no criminal and thus no crime. They don't have to write down what they did for you - but instead they see ways they can make more money by insisting on complicated, expensive repairs that are not in your best intrest - only in the intrest of draining your wallet.

 

GD

Edited April 29, 2010 by GeneralDisorder

[Robert M]

Plug the lines from the INSIDE of the line, leaving enough empty space in the lines to re-connect them. That way, no one will see it. It looks normal...but it has been plugged. Solid rubber plugs work well for this. You just shove them into the line (sometimes you have to lube them a bit first) and then push them hard up the line until you have enough empty space to reconnect.

[Subarule]

I tend to get too anal about things, I know.

 

I wish I did have a talented acquaintance nearby who could work on my Sube but I don't. I'm not near anybody who's into them.

[Robert M]

I noticed the person who made this thread is from Washington state. So am I...my place is up near Auburn. When I take my Subie in for the emissions test, they don't exactly take out the book and study it. They just take a quick glance, and if everything appears normal, they just hook up the thing to record the revolutions and start the test.

[Yo'J]

Bureaucracy at its finest. The law states (somewheres I aint lookin up) that auto component re-builders can charge twice what they used to under some law GW Bushie signed into existence, just to make it more expensive to fix your old car. Thats how a nd disty, dealer new, is now close to the same cost as a rebuilt one.

[backcountrycrui]

Bureaucracy at its finest. The law states (somewheres I aint lookin up) that auto component re-builders can charge twice what they used to under some law GW Bushie signed into existence' date=' just to make it more expensive to fix your old car. Thats how a nd disty, dealer new, is now close to the same cost as a rebuilt one.[/quote']

 

Not for my 86 gl. I thought that the rebuilt and new dist were expensive. That is until I called the dealer in Auburn, all I can say is DAMN, it cost more than the car did:lol:

Mike

[GeneralDisorder]

There are places that can rebuild distributors much more reasonably than replacing them.

 

www.philbingroup.com

 

GD