update- AT oil light on and car wont start.

[Fairtax4me]

Resistance is one way, but you need both tests. You are looking for an AC pulse as the engine is cranked (which is the FSm way of testing it). It creates a pulse as the toothed "gear" passes under it.

 

Does it generate a signal or does it switch a reference from the ECU?

[nipper]

It is a pulse of high/low AC signal. It does not happe an regular intervals as the signal gear is refernced to specific rotations.

 

Look at the haynes manual even if it is not your year, as all the cam and crank sensors work the same way.

[Fairtax4me]

It is a pulse of high/low AC signal. It does not happe an regular intervals as the signal gear is refernced to specific rotations.

 

Look at the haynes manual even if it is not your year, as all the cam and crank sensors work the same way.

 

Ok. I have the FSM for 95 and it says nothing about testing the Crank/Cam sensors besides checking resistance.

[nipper]

Ok. I have the FSM for 95 and it says nothing about testing the Crank/Cam sensors besides checking resistance.

 

Odd thats now how you test a hall effect sensor.

 

I cant find it in the FSM (clue me into the section)

 

The resistance is the first test to make sure there are no opens in the sensor, there are only two wires so it is easy. The pattern will be 1-11-1-111-1 . Do the resistance if it fails that you are done. It is possible to loose a tooth on the reluctor (GEAR) and that will keep the car from running. It will be an all or nothing test otherwise.

[Fairtax4me]

Section 2-7 on page 221. DTC P0335. In the Troubleshooting section under On Board Diagnostics. I'd link it for you but photoshop doesn't like me today for some reason.

That's all I could find at least. Says basically the same thing for both the cam and crank angle sensors. Test resistance and if they fall out of the listed range (which is the same for both sensors) replace the sensor. That's all it says about testing the sensor itself, it does have other info on testing the wiring harness.

[nipper]

Interesting, as that is only 1/2 the test for any sensor of that type. It is a standard testing procedure engineering wise.

 

 

nipper

[hankosolder2]

Nipper-

 

Are you sure the crank and cam sensors are hall effect on this car? I think they are just straight pick up coils, in which case checking for resistance and shorts to ground is a pretty good test. Most hall effect sensors will have three pins (+5, signal/pulse out, ground) and I'm pretty sure the Subie ones are two pins. Been a long time since I've had to do anything with that, I could be wrong on this.

 

Nathan

[nipper]

Nipper-

 

Are you sure the crank and cam sensors are hall effect on this car? I think they are just straight pick up coils, in which case checking for resistance and shorts to ground is a pretty good test. Most hall effect sensors will have three pins (+5, signal/pulse out, ground) and I'm pretty sure the Subie ones are two pins. Been a long time since I've had to do anything with that, I could be wrong on this.

 

Nathan

 

My mistake, they are inductors DUH brain fart!

[tenderfootblue]

No start problem fixed. I changed the ignition coil and it seems to have solved that problem.

 

Now I have to address the torque bind problem.

I think I will start with draining and changing the ATF....two times.Then look at getting into a set of cheap new tires. (started a new thread for this issue)