Thinking of buying a RX and have a question

[wrxzzz]

I found a 87 RX for sale and the seller was upfront enough to tell me that it sporadically locks the rear wheels. It only happens after sitting a while and if it is put in neutral it rolls freely. It mysteriously unlocks latter and he can drive off. The parking brake is not functional so he's not using it.

 

I read somewhere that the RX has a feature that stops the car from rolling backwards between shifts and the seller thinks that the sensor might be bad.

Is this plausable?

 

I would have to travel quite far to pick this car up if I decide to buy and I don't want to go to all the trouble if it's a major problem. The drive train is what I'm after and it this is a sign it's bad I want to know. Does anyone have any idea what could cause this? I appreciate the help. I know WRXs pretty well but I'm completely new to the RXs.

[Turbone]

The feature is called the "Hill Holder". It allows you to release the brake while sitting on a up hill slope. I think it only works on the front wheels tho.

The problem could be the rear diff is locking up.

[GeneralDisorder]

The hill holder is entirely mechanical - it operates on one brake circuit of the dual-diagonal system therefore it operates on one front and one rear wheel. There are no sensors - in fact there is nothing even electrical. Just a cable from the clutch fork.

 

GD

[wrxzzz]

Would the diff lock up while sitting? If it is the diff then I won't buy it. Any other thigs he could check or any way to tell if it is the diff?

[Turbone]

It just may be low on fluid, a LSD diff will act funny if low.

If thats the only thing wrong with it, I would still buy it, they are easy to replace. You could always throw a open 3.7 rear diff in and drive it till you found a replacement LSD diff.

[GeneralDisorder]

Would the diff lock up while sitting?

 

Doubtful - if there were a problem of that magnitude inside the diff - you would hear it.

 

If it is the diff then I won't buy it.

 

Why not? That's like a 30 minute swap job. If you can't handle that..... RUN from the EA82T

 

Any other thigs he could check or any way to tell if it is the diff?

 

Could be rust on the rotor's causing the pads to drag.... that doesn't usually happen unless something sits for decades though.

 

What else to check...... Hah! What NOT to check would be the question . Clearly you don't know the reputation of the EA82T. Start hoarding replacement engines - you'll need em.

 

GD

[wrxzzz]

Thanks guys. I'm talking to a few guys with these for sale and think I'm gonna pull the trigger in the next couple of weeks. I'll let you guys know when I do.

[Turbone]

If you need or want info on the stock engine, or the RX in general ask me. I've been thru about a 1/2 dozen of the engines

I now have a EJ22T in the car.

[GeneralDisorder]

I now have a EJ22T in the car.

 

Ding! Ding! Ding!

 

Rob now has the correct answer to the question "how do I fix my broken EA82T?"

 

GD

[Turbone]

Regardless of what you think GD, the EA82T wasnt that bad a engine.

Every EA82T that I ever had, had well over 100k on it. Show me another engine that was turbo'd with that kind of mileage.

The reason everyone has a problem with them is they get them with high mileage, then beat the snot out of them and/or mod them.

[GeneralDisorder]

Show me another engine that was turbo'd with that kind of mileage.

 

100k is not many miles by mid to late 80's standards. And I have 115k on my EJ22T in my sport sedan. Even the EA82T can do 200k no problem if you don't mod it and take care of the cooling system.

 

The reason everyone has a problem with them is they get them with high mileage, then beat the snot out of them and/or mod them.

 

That's part of it. But the real "problem" with them is that you don't need a turbo on a 1.8 to get the amount of *reliable* power the EA82T makes. You can do it without the turbo and the added complexity. Thus makeing it an answer to a question never asked.

 

The other problem with them is their odd design and lack of reasonably priced upgrade paths. To get out from under just the head gasket/head cracking issue would cost thousands more than simply putting in another engine. And that wouldn't even begin to address the poor flowing head design.

 

A used non-turbo 2.2 with cams and tuning can eat a modded EA82T for breakfast 7 days a week and twice on Sunday. And do it for about $1000 or less.

 

The EA82T is a dead platform. The added complexity and age makes them unattractive for plain driving duties when a similarly priced Legacy can out-perform it. And it's obviously dead from a modding point of view.

 

At this point it's a matter of keeping the few out there going for their current owner that can't afford something else. I have no problem with that. But I wouldn't tell anyone to go and actually BUY one . That would simply be a mistake.

 

GD

[Dr. RX]

Something I've said for a long time, people are wasting their time trying to mod an EA82T. I have seen many people waste loads of money trying to tweak out a few extra hp out of these engines. Rob finally did the right thing. Since the EA to EJ swap is so well documented, there is really no reason why a person with reasonable mechanical skills couldn't make the changeover. Depending upon the price, buy the car, then upgrade the drivetrain.

[wrxzzz]

My plan is to drive it to and from work as it is for the next 2 years while I'm finishing my medical residency. Then when I can afford to and it's no longer a daily driver, swap in a EJ20 into it. I would probably do a full rotisery, weld the seams the whole 9. I was wondering if anyone had cryo trated the greas in one of these 5spds. I'll put a cage in it, pull the interior and go rallying. The RX is something unique and I think it would be worth building up.

 

In the mean time I will need it to take me to and from work which is only a 10 min drive. My wife had a 09 5 series BMW for the weekends so I don't need the RX for too many miles per week. I hope as long as I take good care of the 1.8L it can last a couple of easy years for me.

 

Thanks to everyone for their replies. I have been on NASIOC for years but it may be time to move over to USMB and change my screen name to RXZZZ!

[GeneralDisorder]

EA82's lose a lot of their appeal when you find out that in order to make it into anything decent it's going to take replaceing everything but the shell. If all you want is the look of the body then by all means - it's been done before and I'm sure it will be again.

 

But know that you are going to need to do some serious work. The entire suspension has to be redone, and no - the RX transmission will not handle the EJ20G power plant. You will destroy it - they were not designed for 200+ HP. Cryo-treating the gears is a doubtful solution as well as being expensive - you are looking at a complete tear down, rebuild with all new seals and bearings, plus the cost of the cryo treating and even then it's a gamble - you would be cryo-treating worn parts which is not a fantastic idea anyhow. I would guess you would be spending somewhere in the neighborhood of a couple grand on an endevour like that - not even knowing if it's going to work. Wouldn't be worth my money and I've been inside and back out of a number of EA and EJ transmissions. If it's me I'm putting that couple grand toward a 6 speed.

 

You will have a shell - and mechanically speaking you will have a gas tank and some brake hard-lines. Maybe the odd bits of headlight and turn signal wireing .

 

Don't get me wrong - if I were going to EJ20G an EA82 chassis then the RX would be my choice - and people do crazy stuff like that all the time. But know what you are getting into here.

 

As for the EA82T being reliable for a couple years - you are going to want to replace the entire cooling system - just march straight down to the dealer and ask them to order every single hose in the system. Pull the engine and replace it ALL. Get a new radiator and if you can get a twin-core or make a twin core from something else fit. If you can keep the cooling system together you can likely make 2 years with it. But I wouldn't trust it as far as I could throw it if you just buy it and drive it. That's why these cars change hands on a yearly basis - people don't do the preventative maintenance that's required of a 20+ year old turbo engine. Blow the cooling system and chances are you'll be looking for a replacement motor or that 20G a lot sooner than you think. They don't take overheating - not even a little.

 

GD

[T'subaru]

Alot of good stuff in this thread, both pro and con for the ea82T. I have an 89 rx, a lot of fun to drive when it runs well, awesome in snow and ice, and EASILY KILLED by overheating. I would recommend a rx as a toy, a vehicle to upgrade etc. I would not recomend one as a daily driver unless it is has low miles or has had a ton of work.

[wrxzzz]

I used to run water wetter (something like that) in my Husqvarna supermotard bike that liked to overheat. It was awesome. Anyone try anything like that with a RX?

[T'subaru]

Ive heard of it being used in hotter climates, but a tmic or fmic would be a good way to go. You can also get new metal tank twin core radiators for the rx's for 180.00.

http://www.usaradiator.com/SUBARU--LOYALE--1990.html

part number 1269 fits the rx and alot of the L series.

[wrxzzz]

Thanks, I'll invest in a dual core. I thought about an oil cooler too. I'm in TX so I may use water wetter in the summer months.

 

After more reading I may keep it stock and just restore it. The reality is I need a cheap car. I hate to see my WRX go. I had a EJ22T closed deck short block with forged internals that I had to sell. Now the WRX has to go and with it my dream of building a bad rump roast rally car. I love Subarus and the RX seems like an affordable way of keeping my obsession going. I could always restore it and keep it as a collector car. They really are amazing cars for their time. I love old rally cars.

 

In the future my money might be better spent importing a spec-c RaR which is my dream car. For now I'll go with the cleanest RX I can find. Still looking so if anyone knows where to find one please help me keep the love alive.

[GeneralDisorder]

Why not just get a first gen Legacy with that same closed deck 22T? That's what I have and I particularly like the '91 body personally. Also an early rally car and a very fun car to own.

 

Not at all the unreliable POS the RX's are. The 22T is an excelent engine and you should stick with it.

 

GD

[idosubaru]

add on's like a wetter you speak of might be good, but the 20 year old hoses and seals are still the issue. That on a car not worth much often means they haven't typically been maintained well over the past few years and previous overheating isn't hard to imagine. Decent motor if all things are in good order but it is not forgiving at all.

[kaki]

@ WRXZZZ...am currently working on 2 RX's...recently got a crucial engine part from TURBONE here...now,about the cars...one is a 1988 4-door...the other an '87 coupe...might be unloading either one or both pretty soon...PM me for details and will keep you posted if you are still searching.Travelling abroad for the next 10 days or so...good luck...hope you find one.If not, dont hesitate.

[wrxzzz]

Kaki, you have a visitor message. Get ahold of me.

[Flowmastered87GL]

You want a cheap car... the RX may start out cheap... but to keep it running at daily driver levels will cost you $$.

 

If you want inexpensive... get like a 90-94 legacy... reliable and inexpensive. If you want the RX, budget to have to do work on it... alot...

[kaki]

There's one on Colorado CL