johnny9k Posted May 3, 2010 Share Posted May 3, 2010 The muffler on my 97 Legacy Outback needs to be replaced. I'd like to learn to do some of this repair work myself. Is this a job a fairly handy DIY guy could do himself? I found several replacements online including this one for $95. Looks like it has the pipe all the back to the cat flange. http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Subaru/Legacy/Replacement/Muffler/1997/Outback/4_Cyl_2-dot-5L/REPS961102.html?loc=Center&tlc=Engine+%26+Drivetrain Would love to hear some advice on this job and recommended parts. Also what tools to get. The whole point of DIY maintenance is so you can get new tools, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 3, 2010 Share Posted May 3, 2010 Exhaust can be tricky or easy. Difficulty is mostly due to rust and seized bolts. Often requires cutting/grinding, etc. Otherwise bolt on stuff is fairly straight forward, just annoying working on your back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny9k Posted May 3, 2010 Author Share Posted May 3, 2010 Here's another question...what do I need to get access to the exhaust system? Are jack stands enough? One thing in my favor is that I had the rear cat flange replaced back in November so hopefully those bolts haven't seized too bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted May 3, 2010 Share Posted May 3, 2010 Here's another question...what do I need to get access to the exhaust system? Are jack stands enough? One thing in my favor is that I had the rear cat flange replaced back in November so hopefully those bolts haven't seized too bad. If you use jack stands, be sure to apply the hand brake first, and use wheel chocks. I learned the hard way that otherwise the car can fall off a jack stand. Luckily, I was not under the car to get hurt. If you have the drive up hard plastic ramps, I would use those on the rear, or use four if you can borrow them from a friend. I have found they work great for getting under the car. I feel safer under them, verses jack stands. I have used grease or antisieze on pipes to help them to slide together easily, if not using flange mounts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted May 3, 2010 Share Posted May 3, 2010 No that is junk. How can i tell? "Aluminized steel" is junk. In less then 2 years it will be rusted. Look for Walker pipes, they last a long long time. Go to Rock auto to start, and confirm by going to the Walker catalog itself. Having just done this on my 97' the cat/pipe bolts are a real ***************. Even when they are cut off they put up a fight. Youe need a grinder, though i did well with a dremel tool. i had to take mine to midas finally due to a rotted flange on the converter. Go to RockAuto as I think we get a discount. The wlaker cat hardware kit has everything you need. The rear muffler should be alot easier, just snap those bolts. nipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdjdc Posted May 5, 2010 Share Posted May 5, 2010 I have a 98 parts car that may have a good pipe on it. I can check it tomorrow and let you know. If I do hve one I can let you have it cheap and you can do the fix yourself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john in KY Posted May 5, 2010 Share Posted May 5, 2010 Replace the muffler on my wagon a few months ago. Took 1/2 day to remove just 2 rusted bolts. If you can get the bolts loose, it is an easy job. Cheap mufflers IMO aren't worth the time installing. A OEM muffler will cost more up front but can easily last 10 years or more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted May 6, 2010 Share Posted May 6, 2010 Good CO rust free mufflers are cheap. Check the You Pull and Pay in Colorado Springs for the price. Add about $35 for shipping. Instead of loosening the bolts, put good 6 point sockets on the bolts and tighten them until they snap and the replace them and the gasket. Apply anti-size to them and you will be good the next time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subaru360 Posted May 6, 2010 Share Posted May 6, 2010 Upstate NY. The bolts and flanges are going to be totally rotted away and will fall apart when you touch them. Plan on just replacing everything from the cat back. Or take it to a muffler place and have them weld it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny9k Posted June 8, 2010 Author Share Posted June 8, 2010 Thanks for the advice. I ended up grabbing a muffler off a 97 Subaru in the scrapyard. Was in great shape and unbolted easily. The one on my Subaru took a little more elbow grease, but once it was off it was a piece of cake to make the swap. The other pipe and cat will probably rot soon enough, but for $18 I'm happy to have a quiet car again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted June 8, 2010 Share Posted June 8, 2010 great job and glad you used oem. oem lasts 10 years or so. autoparts will last 1 year in the rust belt. not a job i wanna spend money on every year, i am not kidding a cheap exhaust is swiss cheese in the part of US here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 9, 2010 Share Posted June 9, 2010 i replaced a friends mid pipe about a year ago - it's trashed already (see wanted forum for my exhaust request). there's a leak and i looked under and was like WHAT THE CRAP - the "new" pipe looks like it's 15 years old. it was $80 off ebay. but she can't do $500 for new OEM either, that's a bit absurd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny9k Posted June 9, 2010 Author Share Posted June 9, 2010 Here was my last muffler after 3 NY winters. Yes, I was driving like that Here's my new one. I spent $18, but could've gotten it for $12 if I'd left the extra pipe I didn't. Next time the scrapyard has a muffler sale I'm going to grab another one to have ready. Unfortunately, they don't resell cats so I'll have to buy one new whenever mine dies. 204,000 miles and counting. Next project is replacing the knock sensor and investigate why I'm seeping oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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