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Hi,

 

I am new to the forums and looking to buy my first subaru outback and wanted to seek advice on any year models with know problems and anythings I should look for.

 

Looking for an outback 2000 or newer

Budget $10K - 12K

 

I have heard of transmission problems in some but not sure on effected years/models?

 

Thanks

Jason

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read about headgaskets and torque bind. torque bind isn't a Subaru issue, it's more of a poor maintenance issue. some folks might associate that with the trans since it's major components are in the trans but paying attention to your tires and changing the fluids you shouldn't have to worry about it.

 

i'd shoot for an H6 model myself. but you're limited to auto's in that case.

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I am after a auto I think ( it is for driving up to the ski fields that I am unsure auto or standard).

A wagon for sure, along with heated seats and leather if that is the only way to get heated seats.

I am open to either the 4 or the 6 ( are the 4's a 2.5 litre?)

I have looked and I think because I am in Colorado the price of Subaru's is inflated as 2005 seem like they are around 15K.

 

Thanks

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Yeah, used subaru's tend to go for a quite a bit more here in Colorado than otherwise.

 

The newer automatics (not sure what year, 2005?) went to an automatic with a paddle shifter, which for me (I despise automatic transmissions usually) makes them much more driveable in the mountains, but you still have the advantage in traffic that an auto has.

 

I think the 2005 and newer outbacks are the ones that have problems with ghostwalking in the snow, though....

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I would like to see substancial evidence of the ghostwalking before we bash too much here. That era outback is about the best they ever made. The 02-04 VDC H6 cars also do it IMO but I don't see it as negative.

 

With good snow tires and common sense I don't see the ghostwalking occuring at all. I have driven a bunch of them on snow and ice and I can see how people think the car is stepping out but its actually the rear differential and VDC trying to get traction on a slick surface and then giving up when both wheels spin. My WRX does it when I have my summer tires on with icy conditions but doesnt do it with the snow tires on as bad if at all. Any car with the VDC system is going to do it and its doing its job. Tires, speed and driving abilities have a huge factor here.

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I am curious on people opinion on which is better for snow/ice driving manual or automatic (pre 2005 or post 2005). As this will be our head to the mountain car so it is a big factor in the purchase.

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Depends on what you mean by snow and ice driving. On plowed roads that still have snow and ice on them, or deep snow/unplowed stuff. For plowed roads, I don't know that it matters all that much, but for really deep stuff where you are rocking it back and forth and charging snowdrifts higher than the hood and such, I would say a manual, with 4wd, not all wheel drive, and low range (which you aren't going to find in modern subarus). I do that quite a bit in my cars, but most people are talking about something alot less severe when they say "snowy roads".

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  • 4 months later...

So I am revisting this as I have still yet to buy a car as have had a wedding to plan, now I am ready but just wanted to check what models/years to steer clear of or to look out for.

Also how well do the pre 2005 auto's downshift? Same as the post 2005 or not?

Edited by zaskar23
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If I were in your situation I would get a 2005 or later with 6 cylinder. That way you get both a somewhat more powerful motor plus a 5-speed automatic transmission. My personal favorite, due to a modest facelift, is the 2008-2009. But you're going to have to pay high teens at a minimum.

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I cannot speak for the 2005 and up Outbacks but if I had a "do over" I would avoid anything with a moon roof (2000 - 2004). Mine leaks and the front moon unit has failed (it no longer will open with the motor). If rain is in the forecast I park on a slope with the nose of the car pointed down. I have cleaned the rear drains more than I care to recall only to find them clogged within six to nine months.

 

I am also not a big fan of the automatic in my model year - 2000. It is very much a slush box; takes its sweet time to downshift and upshift; will not step down into first unless the car is completely stopped; etc, etc. But it does get the job done - just not to my taste. I prefer a stick myself but my wife insisted that the car had to be automatic so she could drive it.

 

Steve

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There are a lot of changes in the transmission I would get a 2006 as its the first year of the new fluid, the 5AT is available in that year as well.

 

I wouldn't get an automatic trans with an h6 or a turbo car. I look at it this way. 1 high maintenence item per car. Either the engine with a turbo and a 5 speed manual which is durable, or an auto with the standard 2.5L SOHC engine which is great but plan on putting head gaskets on the car every 100K miles or so.

 

Change the coolant every other year minimum, change the gear oil every 15K, change the oil every 3750....and well frankly your post count on the board won't amount to much if you do all that. :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

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