Uberoo Posted May 5, 2010 Share Posted May 5, 2010 On my SPFI swapped EA81 I got it started.Then a couple days latter it wont start.By following the advice of some of the members here they suggested to replace the CTS.so I did that and it still wont start.So I started poking around with my testlight. I have power to BOTH sides of the coil but none to the tower,so None to the plugs.I tried swapping the coil with the old carb one.Still wont start.So how come I have power to both sides of the coil but no power to tower(on both coils I tried). Please help because I need to get this running by thursday.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted May 5, 2010 Share Posted May 5, 2010 Normally you don't check for DC voltage on the high tension lead. The trouble is most likely with the CAS in the disty. Place a test light probe on the minus side of the coil and ground the clip lead. Then crank the engine over and see if the light pulses while cranking. If the light just stays steady on then the problem is with the disty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted May 5, 2010 Author Share Posted May 5, 2010 the test light lights up until until I turn the key to start, then there is nothing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted May 5, 2010 Share Posted May 5, 2010 Then check the plus side of the coil when trying to start it. If the light still goes out there is a problem with the ignition lead to the coil. Somehow voltage is being cut off. It may be the ignition switch causing the trouble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted May 5, 2010 Author Share Posted May 5, 2010 light still goes out. I may just have to wire in a toggle and push button switch. If I wired an ignition switch so that one side is the 12V constant and the other side is the ignition wires, then ran a push button start would I still have lights and other things?I don't have a radio so there isnt a need for an accessory position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted May 5, 2010 Share Posted May 5, 2010 You could add a switch to supply power to the coil but why not try to fix the trouble. The problem may be in the harness connection under the steering column. There should be a connector there going to the ignition switch and the contacts have been known to go bad. Also check the connection that the switch contacts tie to. The ignition switch may be the trouble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted May 5, 2010 Share Posted May 5, 2010 light still goes out. I may just have to wire in a toggle and push button switch. If I wired an ignition switch so that one side is the 12V constant and the other side is the ignition wires, then ran a push button start would I still have lights and other things?I don't have a radio so there isnt a need for an accessory position. Wire you're switch(s) to right into the connector at the column that the original ignition switch used. Seems to me you need 2 switches. 1 for ACC. position, and 1 for IG. Then a pushbutton for Start. but if you do that, basically mimic the OE switch, you will have all you're power to everything and it won't be from backfeed. Just use heavy switches(50 amp) and 12 gauge wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted May 5, 2010 Author Share Posted May 5, 2010 so if I just use one switch for ignition "ON" will I have lights,heater fan etc?Just no accessory position right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted May 5, 2010 Share Posted May 5, 2010 Don't replace the switch - just install some relays to take the load off it. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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