'84 GL Wagon Advice

[kerandt]

Hi all! Went and picked up a 2nd Gen wagon. I've wanted one for awhile but just haven't had the means (know what I mean?). Anyways, it's a real beater. 192K. It has the 4 speed dual range. Still learning the ins and outs (I'm a Loyale owner). Runs and drives as is, but could definately use a lot of tinkering. Just sticking to the basics here. First thing I did was change the oil and use GD's shifter/linkage fix to rid some of the slop. VERY NICE! Today I changed out the manifold gaskets. PO had a new pair of Felpro in the car so I used them. They didn't have the stud flange like the old ones. These are basicly a carboard circle. So I just lined 'em up free hand as best I could. Should I have used some high temp goop here? I didn't. Bolts stayed in on one side, came out on the other. Right now I'm trying to get the rear left axle out because it has a blown outer boot. I can't get the half shaft to budge off the axle stubs (either one). Both spring pins are out. The shaft itself moves between the joints. I'm thinking of heating the outside portion, right where the spring pin holes are. I only have the small propane bottle so not much heat there. And it was windy enough it kept blowing out. Would it be dumb to drive it around a bit without the pins in the axle to see if it breaks loose? I've been spraying everything real good with PB blaster too. Hey sorry about the novel. I would appreciate any input. Thanks.

[GeneralDisorder]

Hi all! Went and picked up a 2nd Gen wagon. I've wanted one for awhile but just haven't had the means (know what I mean?). Anyways, it's a real beater. 192K. It has the 4 speed dual range. Still learning the ins and outs (I'm a Loyale owner). Runs and drives as is, but could definately use a lot of tinkering. Just sticking to the basics here. First thing I did was change the oil and use GD's shifter/linkage fix to rid some of the slop. VERY NICE!

 

Cool - did you thread just the primary hole and call it good or did you do the version 2 fix with the extra locking bolt off-angle from the primary?

 

Being it's a beater - I would pull the oil pump and inspect for damage. There's a high likelyhood with neglected EA81's of serious damage inside the pump's. Infrequent oil filter changes are to blame.

 

Today I changed out the manifold gaskets. PO had a new pair of Felpro in the car so I used them. They didn't have the stud flange like the old ones. These are basicly a carboard circle. So I just lined 'em up free hand as best I could. Should I have used some high temp goop here? I didn't. Bolts stayed in on one side, came out on the other.

 

Assuming you are talking about exhaust manifold. No goop. The cardboard circle is for the air suction valve spacer above the manifold - not for the manifold itself. You really should do it a favor and just get a set of exhaust gaskets from the dealer. They are much better. Cardboard won't hold for long.

 

Right now I'm trying to get the rear left axle out because it has a blown outer boot. I can't get the half shaft to budge off the axle stubs (either one). Both spring pins are out. The shaft itself moves between the joints. I'm thinking of heating the outside portion, right where the spring pin holes are. I only have the small propane bottle so not much heat there. And it was windy enough it kept blowing out. Would it be dumb to drive it around a bit without the pins in the axle to see if it breaks loose? I've been spraying everything real good with PB blaster too. Hey sorry about the novel. I would appreciate any input. Thanks.

 

You can leave the pin out all you want - that's not going to help break it loose unfortunately. And you are pissing in the wind with a hand-held propane torch for that job. You need a HEAVY hand mallet (I like a 4 lb sledge with the handle cut down to about 8" or so) and a fat brass drift. You need weight when you want to move metal and break corrosion. You could flail at it all day with a "normal" hammer and it won't do squat. Bring some steel to that party. If you have to resort to heat you are going to need a lot of it and quickly - that's the key - fast, fast, fast. You don't want to heat to migrate into the stub - you want to expand the outer layer (the cup) and not the stub - thus breaking the corrosion via differential expansion.

 

PB Blaster is mildly amusing when put in a styrofoam cup - but for rust you need something with some grunt - Yield is great - but if you can't get that then mix a 50/50 solution of brake fluid and acetone. Keep it away from paint

 

GD

[ettev]

Buy some of this stuff. I buy it in the gallon tin and run it out of a pistol-squirt oil can. Best stuff I've found to date, and I live in the rust belt. http://www.kanolabs.com/

[kerandt]

Awesome advice. Going to look it those corrosion fighters. Still thinking a blow torch is what I will need though.

 

Ordered "Subaru" exhaust gaskets today (should be here Monday from Portland).

 

And bought the biggest brass drift Napa had. Haven't had much time to deal with the axle any more but will.

 

GD- I just threaded the existing hole and added the one bolt with a nut. The difference is night and day.

 

Adios amigos!