Timing Help

[Koheleth]

My older brothers took off the heads of a EJ22 '90 Legacy. Though when they remove the Camshaft sprockets they mess up on the markings. There must be a way I can visual set the Sprockets to TDC before I replace the Rocker Arms of them. I can see the lobes of the Camshafts. In otherwords "How can I set the timing without proper markings to begin with?"

[johnceggleston]

My older brothers took off the heads of a EJ22 '90 Legacy. Though when they remove the Camshaft sprockets they mess up on the markings. There must be a way I can visual set the Sprockets to TDC before I replace the Rocker Arms of them. I can see the lobes of the Camshafts. In otherwords "How can I set the timing without proper markings to begin with?"

 

2 good links in mt signature below.

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[Koheleth]

2 good links in mt signature below.

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Thanks for the help, though that isn't what I am working on right now. It talks about the marks on the Camshaft sprockets. Right now I am trying to make those marks because I have the Heads, Rocker Arms and Sprocket all disassemblied from one another. I am trying to set the Lobes of the Camshaft before I put on the Rocker Arms, so then I am correctly mark the Sprockets for TDC, the depression of Piston #1

[Fairtax4me]

You put it all together and then turn the camshaft to the proper position afterwards. The sprocket will only go on one way so it's not possible to install it wrong unless you modify it.

 

Be sure to coat the camshaft and rockers in assembly grease before you install them.

[Koheleth]

You put it all together and then turn the camshaft to the proper position afterwards. The sprocket will only go on one way so it's not possible to install it wrong unless you modify it.

 

Be sure to coat the camshaft and rockers in assembly grease before you install them.

 

I understand that. Though unless we are to fully rely on the two notches of the cover to sprocket, I would like to set the lobes in the camshaft right before it begins the intake to piston 1, so then I can mark the sprocket to cover. So when I reassembly it all, I know the exact placement it should be turned to, which rotates the lobes, which set the rocker arms to start the intake of piston 1. I am being too vague, or not getting something rather simple? I keep reading about the notches, though my dad feel more confident in the timing process if we make the marks ourselves, because we can visual see the lobes of the camshaft now, if that make any sense.

[johnceggleston]

I understand that. Though unless we are to fully rely on the two notches of the cover to sprocket, I would like to set the lobes in the camshaft right before it begins the intake to piston 1, so then I can mark the sprocket to cover. So when I reassembly it all, I know the exact placement it should be turned to, which rotates the lobes, which set the rocker arms to start the intake of piston 1. I am being too vague, or not getting something rather simple? I keep reading about the notches, though my dad feel more confident in the timing process if we make the marks ourselves, because we can visual see the lobes of the camshaft now, if that make any sense.

 

i have no idea what you are trying to do , but i do know this:

 

1. your engine is non-interference, valves cannot hit pistons.

2. set the crank sprocket to the correct timing mark and all of the pistons will be at the mid-cylinder position.

3. assemble the cam shafts, rockers and cam pulleys and install. rotate to the correct timing mark and hang the belt. timing will be right.

 

except for arrows on the pulleys that are NOT used for timing the engine, common mistake, subaru has made it easy. so easy in fact that i can do it and get it right on my first try after a 30 year wait since i adjusted a valve.

 

i think you are trying to make something simple, into something difficult.

[Koheleth]

I have little to no knowledge of this, and I am way over my head. Sorry for be rather scattered-brain. The correct marks are the notches on the Sprockets and the notches on the Inner Covers, right? Also, from what I could gather from looking online TDC is when the piston is about to begin its depression, is that wrong for the EJ22?

Edited May 12, 2010 by Koheleth
Mispost

[johnceggleston]

Correct timing marks are?

 

check the pics on page 2 in the second link below.

 

the crank sprocket has a line or hash mark on one of the reluctors or tabs on the back edge of it. it goes in the 12 oc'lock position and line up with the mark on the timing cover or block. (the key way will be in the 6 o'clock position.)

 

the cam pulleys als so have a line or hash mark on the front outer edge of the pulley. they go in the 12 o'clock position and line up with the mark on the rear of the timing cover.

 

some timing belts will come with corresponding marks on them which may or may not be correct. if you plan on using them you should double check the tooth count. which i do not know off of the top of my head. i'd have to check my haynes manual.

 

but regardless, as long as all 3 timing marks are in the 12 o'clock position, you will be good. after several rotations, they will all still be in the correct positions, BUT the marks on the belt will not be.

 

take care in compressing the tensioner.

Edited May 12, 2010 by johnceggleston

[Koheleth]

Alright. Thank you for all your help. Now all I have to do is reassure my father this is correct, and reassemble. Thank you.

[johnceggleston]

Alright. Thank you for all your help. Now all I have to do is reassure my father this is correct, and reassemble. Thank you.

 

i noticed you are in tenn. how deep is the water????

 

and welcome to the board.

[Koheleth]

i noticed you are in tenn. how deep is the water????

 

and welcome to the board.

 

Around me it wasn't bad at all. Just a hugh thunderstorm, though a bunch of counties to the West got hit bad. My sisters were in Greenbrier when the storm hit, took pictures that some streets would drift away some smaller cars.

Edited May 12, 2010 by Koheleth
Mistype

[adema2626]

Another good visual and thing to have around is a Haynes or Chilton manual laying around. It walks you through it step by step and usually has some visual pictures of were things are supposed to be set. That's how I did my timing with my 22t block and 20g heads.

 

Though I have heard Haynes has some wrong torque settings in the book or something along those lines.

[Koheleth]

Another good visual and thing to have around is a Haynes or Chilton manual laying around. It walks you through it step by step and usually has some visual pictures of were things are supposed to be set. That's how I did my timing with my 22t block and 20g heads.

 

Though I have heard Haynes has some wrong torque settings in the book or something along those lines.

 

Know of the right Torque settings then?

[johnceggleston]

Know of the right Torque settings then?

 

you really will be hapier, more confident with a haynes manual at your side. they are not perfect but they are handy and they do have the torque setting listed.

 

a couple of notes on this whole process (there are lots of good write ups which you search for and read):

 

1. if the engine is out of the car and it is an auto trans, search and read "torqueconverter" (the oldest thread) before you reinstall the engine.

 

2. a few of the torque setting are correctly listed in INCH/LBS. not ft / lbs. do not over torque anything. you do not want to bust a bolt or strip out threads. there is one exception, see item 3.

 

3. the crank pulley bolt should be torqued to at least 125 ft/lbs, i use 140 ft/lbs. if you do not it may / will work loose over time and mess up the key way. there are lots of subies for sale with "boogered" crank shaft key way and pulley.

 

is the engine in or out of the car?

 

i would test thread all of the head bolts before the actual install. use some oil or lube to make them work easy before you try it with the heads. i have a parts car i bought for 200$ because a head bolt was cross threaded and busted. an extra pair of hands helps when setting the heads.

 

NO SPRAY on the heads or gaskets.

 

how many miles on the car, did you say before?

 

auto or manual?

[Koheleth]

you really will be hapier, more confident with a haynes manual at your side. they are not perfect but they are handy and they do have the torque setting listed.

 

a couple of notes on this whole process (there are lots of good write ups which you search for and read):

 

1. if the engine is out of the car and it is an auto trans, search and read "torqueconverter" (the oldest thread) before you reinstall the engine.

 

2. a few of the torque setting are correctly listed in INCH/LBS. not ft / lbs. do not over torque anything. you do not want to bust a bolt or strip out threads. there is one exception, see item 3.

 

3. the crank pulley bolt should be torqued to at least 125 ft/lbs, i use 140 ft/lbs. if you do not it may / will work loose over time and mess up the key way. there are lots of subies for sale with "boogered" crank shaft key way and pulley.

 

is the engine in or out of the car?

 

i would test thread all of the head bolts before the actual install. use some oil or lube to make them work easy before you try it with the heads. i have a parts car i bought for 200$ because a head bolt was cross threaded and busted. an extra pair of hands helps when setting the heads.

 

NO SPRAY on the heads or gaskets.

 

how many miles on the car, did you say before?

 

auto or manual?

 

The engine is still in the car, though really the engine only consist of the Piston Shell thingy. It is an Automatic, over 100K Miles, not sure how many more. The reason why we started this project was because the Head Gaskets blew/broke. We got them fixed, new bolts. Now before we hide the visual components my father want to set the timing marks. (Before we put the rocker arms, and the encasements) So I am trying to figure out how to do it. We have the Haynes manual, though my dad would rather double check and saved a few hundred, then trust that the preset timing (The notches as the manual refers to) are right and blow a rod.