Yo'J Posted April 30, 2010 Share Posted April 30, 2010 I got some results on the high idle issue with my swap when I (just) installed the neutral switch and grounded my tranny identifier pin. Do you think the comp. might have some sort of a/c or auto trans bumb up switch circuit ? I'm not perfectly idling yet, but it went from 2000k to 1250k steady with b20 and to 1000k with the neutral switch, and I havent cleaned my maf or aic yet. I'm hoping for some results there too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tturnpaw Posted April 30, 2010 Share Posted April 30, 2010 Your trans ident. Pin should not be grounded unless you're automatic. The neutral should always be grounded doesn't have to be hooked up. Is your wiring correct for your idle switch? B56 pin 6. Brown wire. Should be grounded when the ignition is on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yo'J Posted May 7, 2010 Author Share Posted May 7, 2010 O.k now I'm confused. My Idle circuit is grounded when off and not when on, and not getting4.5v when off. I didn't rewire any of that off the harness. If I should try to rewire that.... Where to go now? It should be stock still. Turbone, hows the high idle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted May 7, 2010 Share Posted May 7, 2010 O.k now I'm confused. My Idle circuit is grounded when off and not when on' date=' and not getting4.5v when off. I didn't rewire any of that off the harness. If I should try to rewire that.... Where to go now? It should be stock still.[/quote'] 2 wire or 3 wire IAC? Most common is the 3 wire. Center wire (yellow) on the connector should be IG. 12v the other 2 wires (white and black) are "grounds" from the ECU, one to full close, one to full open. NOW....the tricky part is that the computer varies the resistance on each of those ground wires. Think of it like a tug of war. IF the ECU wants the IAC full open, it gives a full ground to the "open" wire, and high resistance, almost no continuity to the "closed" wire. Opposite happens for full closed. That's why the FSM says you will measure around 4.5 to 6 volts when measuring between the yellow wire and the other 2. So here's a test. Pull back the rubbber insulation on the IAC plug so you can backprobe the connector......Get it good and warm, idleing as low as it will. Now touch a ground wire to the "closed" wire of the connector. If the IAC can close any further, it will do so now. If that works, then you know the ECU isn't fully grounding that wire...... *Also, as a side note. I recently had to use an Impreza intake boot for my EJ22 (EJ22 from 96 Legacy) Well the impreza Intake boot doesn't have the large port for the IAC. It does have a very small port roughly in the same location. I used adapters to mate this port to the IAC. What's this got to do with anything? Well....my last 3 EJ swaps, I had to battle this idle thing. Espescially in the 4-spd cars with no Nuetral switch. Now this latest swap, I haven't hooked up a nuetral switch, or a clutch switch or anything and it idles WONDERFULLY. The only thing I can think of is that hte smaller hose size restricts what can be passed through the IAC. It does take about 20 or 30 seconds of holding the throttle when cold before it will idle...but otherwise works great. I am considering putting a restrictor on that big IAC hose for my previous swaps that are still high idleing, and for all future swaps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yo'J Posted May 12, 2010 Author Share Posted May 12, 2010 Mind if I ask what size restrictor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted May 12, 2010 Share Posted May 12, 2010 Mind if I ask what size restrictor? Well the hole on the Legacy boots and on the IAC is like 3/4 inch or so. The hole in the Impreza (1.8) intake is on;y about 1/4 inch. So maybe use a 1/4 or a 3/8th restrictor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yo'J Posted May 12, 2010 Author Share Posted May 12, 2010 I just got a new coolant sensor, I'm going to test my iac like described in your post, then I'm trying the restrictor. In order. Whats up with the iac tunability? It swivels like a distributor. I googled it last night but I didn't find much regarding n/a motors, just turbos. I had a dream last night that it was idleing perfectly! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yo'J Posted May 13, 2010 Author Share Posted May 13, 2010 (edited) I'm understanding there is an issue here with the ej swapped cars idling high. I'm on my first swap and I hope not my last. I figured I should start my own thread. So who has had the same problem and what did you do? Me? I got a 90'auto sedan ej into 87 brat. Drives very nice. Needs a suspension upgrade but time will come. So following Gloyales advice on Turbone's thread I inadvertently hijacked, with the car hot and running, I tested the iac with a ground wire and found no change, voltage read 12v one side and 4v the other(not sure if thats right). I then changed out the coolant sensor, nothing. I dropped a 9/16 taiwan 3/8 socket into the iac hose from the rubber boot (no one will miss that one) to restrict the air to the aic, nothing. It still wants to overheat and is idling at 1200, 1300rpm. Now I haven't driven it far after doin all that last bit, but I have done a couple 25mile trips since the swap and just sometimes (rarely) it will drop to 1000rpm. Now my idle screw is all the way out and has been since the car was reborn and able to drive. One thing I want to do is run a direct battery ground to the dash just to make sure there isn't any odd feedback, more the merrier, right? Get the right polarity clutch switch/ neutral switch and know what I'm doing wiring it up.(clutch switch pin?) What else am I missing? Tailgate trim! Dang you guys are good! Edited May 13, 2010 by Yo'J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoobieDoo Posted May 13, 2010 Share Posted May 13, 2010 '86 GL wagon/ EJ22: I loosened up the throttle cable quite a bit and grounded the MT/AT wire at the same time. Don't know if it was one or both, but it now purrs at 7-800 rpm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yo'J Posted May 13, 2010 Author Share Posted May 13, 2010 B56 pin 6. Brown wire. Should be grounded when the ignition is on. This confuses me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yo'J Posted May 15, 2010 Author Share Posted May 15, 2010 bump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yo'J Posted May 16, 2010 Author Share Posted May 16, 2010 Well it looks like my high idle issue might have to be resolved another day as I just noticed some gurgling coming from my coolant reservoir and then a strong burnt exhaust smell from inside it. I was wondering if its slight overheating was from the coolant sensors but it looks like its not and its all new now. That must be the woosh that keeps getting worse going through my heater lines. No its not burping. I know, I took a chance on a donor car that had a bad trans and didn't drive. It blew a little white smoke when I turned it over too. I still have to pass emissions with this thing here so I still would like to figure this out in the mean time, but I'm gonna get some head gaskets someday when I can afford it and I get my driveway back from the city as they are about to tear up my street for a leaky main. I wont have space to fix it or my rear wheel bearings. Can I just replace the gaskets or do I have to do more? I just resealed this thing and haven't driven it 1000mi yet. This brat has just been a project from hell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted May 16, 2010 Share Posted May 16, 2010 Make sure to replace the o-rings on the crossover pipe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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