1984 GL Wagon, Various Issues

[variant13]

As I embark on the 1984 mission, I have identified a number of pressing issues:

 

1) But, immediate problem: Exhaust leak on (I think) driver's side. I've seen this issue listed over and over again here, is this just what these cars do, or is it a design flaw... Can I just go to NAPA and get the gaskets and be done with it in a half hour like it looks?

 

2) The shifter is as loose as... well, a very loose thing indeed. The throw is roughly the same distance as my dad's old 68 GMC 3/4 ton truck shifter. I suspect the 3rd gear synchro is getting ready to quit as well, buuuttt... Where do I get replacement parts for the shifter, or do I write to Hurst and start begging? The one 80s forum posting recommends a process that seems a bit 'home-grown,' does it work?

 

3) Front seats are thrashed. No, I mean thrashed. Like Slash's shorts after the 1988 tour, thrashed. Anyone got a pair of blue seats?

 

4) The car seems to exhibit 'yaw,' a 'softness' in the suspension that is expressed as shifting from left-to-right that exceeds how far you turn the wheel while driving in a straight line. Something like when your tires are under-inflated, but I checked and topped them off before I started driving. Is this just tie rods? Seems weird to me.

 

5) Are the rotors on the front really press-on/press-off? That would be a significant bummer.

[GeneralDisorder]

As I embark on the 1984 mission, I have identified a number of pressing issues:

 

1) But, immediate problem: Exhaust leak on (I think) driver's side. I've seen this issue listed over and over again here, is this just what these cars do, or is it a design flaw... Can I just go to NAPA and get the gaskets and be done with it in a half hour like it looks?

 

Dealer gaskets are better and reasonably priced. Most of the problems people run into are either poor quality gaskets or stud/thread issues. You can tap it over to 7/16x20 and install new studs if you are inclined. Or you can Heli-Coil but it's more expensive.

 

2) The shifter is as loose as... well, a very loose thing indeed. The throw is roughly the same distance as my dad's old 68 GMC 3/4 ton truck shifter. I suspect the 3rd gear synchro is getting ready to quit as well, buuuttt... Where do I get replacement parts for the shifter, or do I write to Hurst and start begging? The one 80s forum posting recommends a process that seems a bit 'home-grown,' does it work?

 

I'm assuming you are refering to my posts on fixing the shifter slop by threading the roll-pin hole and installing a bolt and jam-nut? If so, yes it works. And no you can't easily fix it with factory parts since the transmission would have to come out and be torn apart to replace the worn shift rod. At that point it's easier to install a 5 speed which does not have the 3rd gear syncro problems and does not have issues with critical components of the shifter linkage wearing out. You can simply buy new bushings and have a wonderful, tight shifter.

 

3) Front seats are thrashed. No, I mean thrashed. Like Slash's shorts after the 1988 tour, thrashed. Anyone got a pair of blue seats?

 

EA82 seats fit if you make some adaptor brackets from some flat bar and can be found in good condtion from early 90's Loyale's. They were cloth seats so the vinyl won't be ripped up like your EA81 seats. Personally I weld the brackets to the bottom of the seat and then bolt on the EA81 rails.

 

4) The car seems to exhibit 'yaw,' a 'softness' in the suspension that is expressed as shifting from left-to-right that exceeds how far you turn the wheel while driving in a straight line. Something like when your tires are under-inflated, but I checked and topped them off before I started driving. Is this just tie rods? Seems weird to me.

 

The struts and shocks are shot.

 

5) Are the rotors on the front really press-on/press-off? That would be a significant bummer.

 

The rotors are not pressed, no. The bearings are pressed into the knuckle and the axle is a light interferance fit with the bearing inner races, but you don't need a press to do either of them in practice. The hub is splined to the axle and the rotor bolted to the hub. Remove the axle nut and brake hardware and the hub/rotor will slide right off.

 

GD

[variant13]

Dealer gaskets are better and reasonably priced. Most of the problems people run into are either poor quality gaskets or stud/thread issues. You can tap it over to 7/16x20 and install new studs if you are inclined. Or you can Heli-Coil but it's more expensive.

 

Good enough, I think I can get that in Casper.

 

I'm assuming you are refering to my posts on fixing the shifter slop by threading the roll-pin hole and installing a bolt and jam-nut? If so, yes it works. And no you can't easily fix it with factory parts since the transmission would have to come out and be torn apart to replace the worn shift rod. At that point it's easier to install a 5 speed which does not have the 3rd gear syncro problems and does not have issues with critical components of the shifter linkage wearing out. You can simply buy new bushings and have a wonderful, tight shifter.

 

The post (http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/USRM/mick-usrm/ea81-shifter-fix/EA81ShifterFix.html) calls for cutting a slot in the 'shifter tube' and bolting it tight in place, and does not mention threading, but does mention using a bolt instead of a pin/cotter key setup.

 

EA82 seats fit if you make some adaptor brackets from some flat bar and can be found in good condtion from early 90's Loyale's. They were cloth seats so the vinyl won't be ripped up like your EA81 seats. Personally I weld the brackets to the bottom of the seat and then bolt on the EA81 rails.

 

No access to a welder (certainly no experience), but I believe that there is a yard in Casper with a couple of Loyales in, I will investigate!

 

The struts and shocks are shot.

 

Oh, piffle. I'm not surprised, certainly.

 

The rotors are not pressed, no. The bearings are pressed into the knuckle and the axle is a light interferance fit with the bearing inner races, but you don't need a press to do either of them in practice. The hub is splined to the axle and the rotor bolted to the hub. Remove the axle nut and brake hardware and the hub/rotor will slide right off.

 

GD

 

That's what I'd hoped for, but the NAPA website was imprecise.

 

Thank you for the help!

 

J

[GeneralDisorder]

The post (http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/USRM/mick-usrm/ea81-shifter-fix/EA81ShifterFix.html) calls for cutting a slot in the 'shifter tube' and bolting it tight in place, and does not mention threading, but does mention using a bolt instead of a pin/cotter key setup/

 

That's old - we don't do that anymore. Now we do this:

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=86901

 

And if you want it REALLY tight - do this:

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=846007&postcount=3

 

No access to a welder (certainly no experience), but I believe that there is a yard in Casper with a couple of Loyales in, I will investigate!

 

You can build adaptors that will bolt on as well.

 

GD

[variant13]

That's old - we don't do that anymore. Now we do this:

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=86901

 

This looks better to me than all the cutting and faffing about.

 

And if you want it REALLY tight - do this:

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=846007&postcount=3

 

And that looks like magic. Now I just have to find my tap & die set.

 

You can build adaptors that will bolt on as well.

 

GD

 

Perfect! My thanks!

[variant13]

Here is the 84 GL in all her glory, climbing around on 'Sheep Head Mountain.' If' I'd had tires on it, I would have been up on Atlantic Rim, following a quad-path, but the climb was too steep.

 

The exhaust manifold gaskets were MAYBE a 10 minute swap. Removing the muffler, looking in dismay at the way it resembled a popped paper bag, then beating it into a cylinder again and then wire-welding it back together took somewhat longer. Still a little leak, but I'll have the scratch for a new muffler soon enough. No more backfiring though, and I don't wake the neighbours, either.

 

Next up: rotors and pads. One of the studs in my driver's rear drum is also 2mm shorter than its' fellows, don't know how that one's going to turn out, I assume it's time to hope it holds and get cracking on that 4-wheel disc setup.

 

Anyone have any pointers on lifts? What would be most recommended in order to keep a pretty good level of highway-ability? I want a little more clearance under there, but I don't want to go Road-Warrior. Yet.