Deener Posted May 17, 2010 Share Posted May 17, 2010 Hey folks, I was poking around at slightly rough low idle issue I had lately (anything over idle is great, with lots of power) and I found that one of my intake manifold gaskets are blown, right where it sits on the engine, drivers side. I was just spraying carb cleaner around the vaccuum points to check for leaks and all of a sudden...VRROOOOM, the idle picked up. Closer examination shows one part of the gasket exposed and a direct blast of carb cleaner to that very spot has verified theres a leak. My question is what parts/gaskets should I order and if there are any tips for replacing the gaskets on the intake manifold? For example, should I get MORE than just the gaskets for the manifold since I will have a few parts off in the process? Dean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 17, 2010 Share Posted May 17, 2010 There's a couple small hoses under the intake manifold that are sometimes nice to replace the hoses clamps since you have access but i wouldn't consider them a necessity ,just depends on condition. no other gaskets to replace, just intake manifold. the OEM Subaru gaskets are nicer than aftermarkets but they aren't hard to seal either so either will work. be very careful when removing the intake manifold bolts, they commonly shear off due to corrossion seizing them internally to the intake manifold holes through which they pass. if they seem tight ask or read here for suggestion on getting them out without shearing. small hole - if you have access to it can you just spray some expanding sealant type stuff in there? those gaskets just seal off air flow, they're not under much pressure or any fluids. i wouldn't typically say that but it's an EA82 and you can go back and do it later if need be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deener Posted June 7, 2010 Author Share Posted June 7, 2010 Yes it's just to try and stabilize my rough idle to pass 'Air Care'. The IAC/ISV and throttle body are is clean and functioning, and all of the other tune up pieces are in place - cap/rotor/wires/filters etc. I have narrowed it down to this vaccum leak...I think - so I am going to seal it and see what happens. I picked up some DIRKO - do you think that stuff is safe to use around the intake manifold? It's supposed to be high temp stuff so I figured that should be ok. If not, what other kind of sealant would you recommend? Dean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted June 7, 2010 Share Posted June 7, 2010 The manifold gakets also seal the coolant cross-over channel in the intake. Use only dealer gaskets, clean the mating surfaces REALLY well and torque them to 12 ft/lbs. If part of the intake runner gasket has squeezed out like that there is a high probability that inferior gaskets were used and you should replace them since further degradation and failure will result in a large coolant leak and then overheating. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deener Posted June 7, 2010 Author Share Posted June 7, 2010 Yes, so far it hasn't started any coolant leaks, it's just air on one side. I am fearing the time when I have to actually remove the intake and replace the gaskets. In the next week I am really short on time and , I need to get the car though Air Care - which I think is the same thing as SMOG in the USA/California(?). On that note, are the intake manifold gaskets a big job? I see six bolts plus maybe a couple of little ones on the back of the intake - do you recommend that i pull everything off first, or am I able to take the whole assembly of just by renmoving the 6 bolts? Obviously pull the throttle body and the vaccum lines that are in the way...but could I leave most of the other stuff on? Dean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted June 7, 2010 Share Posted June 7, 2010 You can leave pretty much everything on - even the throttle body, etc. I wouldn't remove any of that. Just enough hoses to get to the 6 manifold bolts and there is an EGR pipe on the passenger side that goes from the manifold to the head - you will have to unscrew it from the head which can be a pain sometimes if you aren't used to stuck flared fittings. You will have to drain the coolant and there is one coolant line from the block to the thermostat housing as well as the upper heater core hose. As mentioned the manifold bolts are very often badly corroded and if the proper technique isn't used to remove them they will break off - either at the head or at the top of the manifold depending on the amount of corrosion. Removal of stuck fasteners is an art all to itself and can be tricky - just remember to take your time. You can't rush it or it will break for certain. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deener Posted June 7, 2010 Author Share Posted June 7, 2010 Ah yes. Thanks a bunch GD - as always. I have actually been gauging my wrenching abilities by how many stuck/broken/stripped nuts and bolts I have been able to extract/re-tap etc. The number grows slowly with every turn of my drive. Some positive factors are better tools and not trying to rush it. If it doesn't come easily, then try the other way...not too hard now...ok...now the other way...now some heat...then the hammer...now some penetrating oil..ok, now the drill.... Thanks again you guys are awesome. Dean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted June 7, 2010 Share Posted June 7, 2010 Your best friends for the job are the hammer/punch (for shock), penetrating oil (Yield is the best), and heat - for small stuff the propane/mapp gas works ok. You have to work it back and forth once you get movement or it will bind. It's rather like cutting threads with a tap in a way. Lots of monkey-fisted mechanic's break those too. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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