one shot front wheel bearing?

[Uberoo]

My car started making some scary sounding noises from the front end.So I jacked the car up and started playing with stuff.The right front tire had 1/2" or so of play in it in any direction.Its just the wheel/rotor that moves.So I believe that the wheel bearing is shot.However Ive never had a car just eat one wheel bearing.Normally the others arn't far behind, but all three other tires have a very small amount of play(normal amount).I checked the wheel nut and it was tight,and they way it is designed it can't really back off.So how likely is it that is it is in fact the wheel bearing?Is there anything else in there that could cause that much play?

 

Car is a 93 legacy wrong wheel drive sedan.

[GeneralDisorder]

It's the bearing. It's pretty normal to only see a single failure like that. Doesn't indicate the other's need any attention. Just do the one and call it good.

 

GD

[Rooster2]

It's the bearing. It's pretty normal to only see a single failure like that. Doesn't indicate the other's need any attention. Just do the one and call it good.

 

GD

 

+1 on above. I have had a wheel bearing go bad, yet the others remain good for years. Like said, just replace the bad one, and motor on.

[WoodsWagon]

The other wheels should not have "normal" bearing play. The fixed cartrige bearings should not have any discernable play in them, unlike the adjustable tapered roller bearings of yesteryear. If you can clunk the wheel around at all in any direction, there is something worn, be it tie rod ends, the lower ball joint, or the bearing.

[Pgh_Scoob]

I agree with 91loyale. It is most likely your wheel bearing, but your tie rods or ball joints could be bad as well. I just replaced my wheel bearing about 3 weeks ago. I could grab my wheel and just flop it around. I had a terrible wander while driving also. I replaced it with a junk yard hub assembly which included the lower ball joint but not the tie rod. I still have a little bit of play but thats because of my tie rods being worn but the wheel bearing is doing great.

Greg

[Uberoo]

What I meant for normal play was the only give was just the rubber distorting.

 

As for the one shot wheel bearing,the strut/spindle/tie rod, etc didn't move it was just the bearing/rotor that moved.

 

Now that I have the parts is there any tips/tricks that I need to know or is it pretty straight forward?

[Fairtax4me]

You have to have a shop press to get the bearing assembly out/in. And at that you need a Subaru tool to hold the knuckle assembly a certain way while the bearing is being pressed out or the knuckle can be deformed and damaged.

 

I'd suggest taking it to a Subaru dealer or competent independent Subaru shop to have them press the old one out and the new one in. Beyond that... pretty straight forward.

[Uberoo]

I can't get the lower ball joint to pop free from the control arm.I've tried simply beating on the balljoint(with the castelated nut on there so to not mess up the treads)

 

Ive tried jacking the car up from the lower ball joint while hammering on the control arm to get it free but I still can not get it to budge.

 

I have everything else loosened up and ready to come off but no joy with the lower ball joint.

 

 

and this this subaru part for the knuckle would the local napa machine shop have something they could use?

Edited May 22, 2010 by Uberoo

[Fairtax4me]

You might have better luck getting the ball joint out of the knuckle. Remove the pinch bolt and soak it with PB blaster. If the knuckle is still attached to the strut then you can hammer on the control arm and it should pop loose.

[johnceggleston]

the pinch bolts have a habit of breaking, use lots of pblaster.

 

i have never had a problem with removing the control arm from the ball joint. it is spring loaded though when the dtrut bolts are in place. i usually use some version of a pry bar, carefull not to tear the ball joint boot.

 

and i have boogered the threads of a tie rod ball joint by beating on it, even with the nut on. so be careful.

[Uberoo]

I was able to stick a steel pipe on the control arm and hit that with my big hammer and it popped right out,after I unbolted the sway bar,at the exact instant that the napa machine shop closed.Oh well,I will just take it in on monday then..

[CNY_Dave]

You have to have a shop press to get the bearing assembly out/in. And at that you need a Subaru tool to hold the knuckle assembly a certain way while the bearing is being pressed out or the knuckle can be deformed and damaged.

 

Or you need to have a lot of old bearing races and metal bits around to stack up...

 

There are indeed a few points in the process where you need to be sure about what's taking the strain.

 

Dave

[GeneralDisorder]

If you know what you are doing with bearings - Harbor Feight sells a "FWD service kit" that is like the chinese equivelent of a Hub Tamer but for $79. I've done Legacy wheel bearings with it and while it's not simple, comes with virtually no instructions, etc. It can be done and does come with enough bits and peices to get the job done without damageing the new bearings.

 

GD