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Does anyone know of aftermarket performance headers for the Duel-port EJ22? I can't seem to find anything for them, everythings for the EJ25s :-\

 

I'm looking to increase the power a bit without dropping Cams into it.

 

Also, on a side question - will non-turbo EJ25 headers fit on the EJ22? Looks to be the same width but not really sure. I take it that if I were to run an EJ25 header I would have to change the Mid-pipe aswell cause the EJ25s are offset more.

 

Heres a link to a pipe on Jags.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Borla/157/17183/10002/-1

 

Comments, Info, Questions, post'em!

 

-Tom :)

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EJ25 headers should bolt right up I thought unless I'm missing something. Ypipes should be interchangeable too?

 

i've seen some aftermarket header discussions on subaruoutback.org.

 

Hmm, the reason I was wondering is that the pictures I have seen of EJ25 headers, they are way more unequal then the one thats on it right now. The one thats on it now is most simular to an EA82 (Just being duel-port is all)

 

Thanks for the reply Gary :)

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DO it Tom!! I just put a set of Borla Replica (read "eBay special") UEL headers on my 2.5RS... The sound has to be heard to be believed! So much rumble... Really deep sound.

I'm running a WRX 3" catback system after the stock cat pipe. Sounds like pure sex!

Build thread on RS25.com with video clips on the last page.

 

The dual port EJ25 headers should mate up just fine to your dual port EJ22 and also to your stock cat pipe. Just make extra certain that you DO have dual port heads.

The fitment on my headers took a little caressing but it was certainly do-able. Watch for clearance on your oil filter and power steering lines.

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Gary, yes its a '95 Legacy L Outback. It looks like duel port cause its got the binocular style flanges. Why did they stop the Duel port in the '96+ ?

 

Dave, I will check out your thread and videos! :slobber: Did you notice any increase in take off or top end highway driving? Plus the added sound will be nice. Mine sounds pretty good with out the muffler for now :grin:

 

-Tom

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Alright sounds like a plan, Now I need to make a choice - either A: Buy performance Headers. B: Find and buy complete Outback strut assemblies.

 

One of these are easier to find then the other, can you take a guess as to which one? :-p

 

'95 should be dual port, yes. As to why they stopped using that head design - I couldn't tell you.

 

The EJ25 headers will bolt up. I would just do that - the difference in engine size is minimal - 0.3 liters isn't much in the scheme of things

 

GD

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Depending on the exhaust you decide to use, will effect your sound. I have heard some exhausts be super raspy even with the UEL headers, make sure and find you a good exhaust to go with or just use the factory catback.

 

This thread will give you some ideas:

http://www.rs25.com/forums/f5/t52687-official-exhaust-should-i-get-thread-video-clips-only.html

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Thats a nice oil free block, wish mine was like that :)

 

Kyle, thanks for the link. I'm planing on running the stock mid-pipe. Only thing I want to change is the header section. I'm running it without a muffler which seemed to increase pick up and it just sounds better :-p

 

Im having a hard time finding any headers for N/A EJ25s. All the pipes I've been seeing either come with the up-pipe welded to it or has the flange to bolt one on. Is there not much for the non-turbo engines or am I not looking on the right sites?

 

I'm a little new at finding Hop-up parts for a change.

 

-Tom

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Yeah, those look like they should bolt up to the cat. I wouldn't buy a real Borla one though. A TON of people who have bought authentic Borlas have had them crack and have to be repaired. The ebay special headers will work just fine and are recommended by a lot of people on the RS board.

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Tom,

Yes, you've got dual port heads.

My headers are Borla replicas off eBay. I paid $145 for them including shipping. They arrived within 2 days of the close of the auction and included new hardware for bolting to the cat pipe as well as new gaskets. (Seller was DNAMotoring)

Take note as I mentioned in my build thread that there are some minor fitment issues but nothing to worry about too much!

 

Here's the steps I took:

1. Shoot all the exhaust studs with PB blaster and let it soak in. You want to avoid unthreading the studs from the heads because it makes the installation a bit trickier.

2. Drop the entire exhaust from the headers to the end of the cat pipe (just unplug your O2 sensors, don't hassle with trying to remove them from the cat)

3. Unbolt the stock header from the cat pipe and bolt it to the new header. Test fit the new header. Mount the driver's side first then go to the passenger side. Expect to have to push the passenger side over a little to get it to line up with the studs.

4. If you have any issues with it all lining up, drop the system again, take a 7/16" drill bit and "hog out" the holes a little bit to allow more clearance.

5. Install. Torque everything down properly. Start the car. You have 10 minutes to wipe that grin off your face :)

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Kyle, yeah I'm not to stoked on the idea on paying $300 for a header - so I will check out that guy on ebay. I just wanted to make sure thats the right shape I'm looking for. Thanks :)

 

Dave, Yea sounds basic enough - when I reaplaced the header and mid-[ipe on the EA82 everything came apart easly (And thats a 18 y.o car :) ) and yes I even replaced the studs on it cause the others were crap, the Legacy ones look good so I see no need to remove them.

 

We better make it 20min to wipe the smile off :grin:

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There is a chance you will get a CEL light from doing this mod too.

 

If I was planning on keeping my RS I would definitely end up doing the UEL header mod. I will be upgrading to an 06 STi here in a few months after I graduate college. (Graduation present from the wife)

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There is a chance you will get a CEL light from doing

this mod too.

 

Mine threw a P0420 in the first tank of gas after installing the headers. My MPG also went from a 25mpg average to a 27.8mpg with just the header change though.

Cleared the CEL on Friday, installed my catback on Saturday and I haven't had any return of the P0420 (I'm getting an intermittent P0325 but that's unrelated to the headers)

 

@Tom, on second thoughts, make it at week or 2 for that grin.

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Speaking of MPG, I need to fix my fuel gauge. It hasn't worked since I bought the car, I dunno why? I pulled the gauge cluster and the gauge seems a little stiff (Is that normal?) My dad tested the gauge with a Multi-meter and it shows power goes through it so IDK? What are the odds the float is stuck and is still stuck after 2000 miles of my driving? Or can the sender unit on the pump its self be shot? I just need to fill it up before 170 miles other wise its like 8gal to fill.. I did look at the connector ontop of the fuel pump and two of the posts don't have power going to them (I did a test while the key was turned to "On") and thats what I found. :-\

 

Mine threw a P0420 in the first tank of gas after installing the headers. My MPG also went from a 25mpg average to a 27.8mpg with just the header change though.

Cleared the CEL on Friday, installed my catback on Saturday and I haven't had any return of the P0420 (I'm getting an intermittent P0325 but that's unrelated to the headers)

 

@Tom, on second thoughts, make it at week or 2 for that grin.

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Part looks good... Price is a little higher than I'd have paid but it'll all come out in the wash!

 

Well I found one for $145 but it has the passenger side downpipe cross over in the center right where the Oil pan would be.. WTF? I'll get you a link.

 

Edit: heres the link. Doesn't this pipe look odd? Scroll down to the other pictures. Well I dunno, it just looked odd to me Lol.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1997-1998-1999-2000-2001-SUBARU-LEGACY-GT-RACING-HEADER-/170442054639?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27af235bef

Edited by TheLoyale
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Nope, exactly the same thing as the one you bought. The passenger side drops down, wraps forward around the oil filter and then takes a turn to the back down the driver's side of the oil pan.

 

1db7_1_sbl.JPG

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Yea I just noticed that after looking at the two. Oh well, I guess go with ur gut on what feels better..

 

So why does it seem the Borlas crack? They are all made out of T-304 (Like the one I bought) so whats to keep this one from cracking? Cleaner rolling bends?

 

I also just thought its gonna be a PITA to do a hot oil change with the filter right there Lol.. Eh, its like a V8 (Oil filter is right by the passenger side header "Smart" )

 

Nope, exactly the same thing as the one you bought. The passenger side drops down, wraps forward around the oil filter and then takes a turn to the back down the driver's side of the oil pan.

 

1db7_1_sbl.JPG

Edited by TheLoyale
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