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just got a 3D STD


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Regular plugs rarely require replacement. Clean and regap is all they need on an EA pushrod engine. If it has NGK's in it now I wouldn't swap them out for Champions - pull the old plugs, file the electrodes with a point file and then properly gap them.

 

Plugs are cheap - about $1-$2 each. Toss the Champions - they can cause issues that may not be immediately apparent.

 

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I have no problem taking everyone's advice, but so far it's all like "don't use them, they are bad. they cause problems."

 

where is the information? what problems? I know spark plugs are all different... some spark better, some last longer...

 

not saying I don't believe you guys, I'm just curious what you're all getting at.

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They can cause runnng issues - poor idling and missing problems, and they have a high rate of failure.

 

It gets old talking about this menial stuff all the time around here. Most of us know this stuff and quite frankly we figure that if you come here for advice you'll be glad to take our combined decades of experience with these engines. If you want to experiment and find this stuff out on your own you ought to be able to do that well enough without our help. We are telling you that MANY people have solved a multitude of problems by removing brand new plugs of various brands (notably high end Bosch and other "platinum" plugs as well as low-end brands such as Champ's and Autolite's) and replacing them with a cheap set of NGK's.

 

I run plain v-power NGK's on my 75 HP EA81's and my 200+ HP EJ22 Turbo. They never dissapoint at $2 each. I also run an NGK brand wide-band O2 system and NGK narrow-band O2 sensors - all with excelent results.

 

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I'm just saying I'd like to know as well ... you can't really expect everyone to just take your word for it all the time

 

I used NGKs in other cars with good results, I'm not against using them. so I'll probably pick some up.

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yeah I mainly only know much about fuel injected subarus... specifically later (90s+) turbo models... so this thing is all new to me. only my second carbureted car actually (first was a '78 chevy monza wagon w/ a buick V6).

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I started with carbs when I was a kid. Since then I've done FI swaps on several EA81's and an EJ22 swap into a Brat. But I still love working on the Weber 32/36's and the Quadrajet on my truck. Carbs are great - not the one on your car - those are junk - but replace it with a Weber and you'll love it.

 

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a guy came to install our Dish TV today and was telling me to put a weber in it ... is there a good tutorial for it on here? I have the EA71 block. all of the kits I see online are $300+ ... if I was going to spend that kind of money, I could get an EJ22 and 5MT transmission from a junk yard.

Edited by saturn
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if I was going to spend that kind of money, I could get an EJ22 and 5MT transmission from a junk yard.

 

That would cost a lot more than $300 and a LOT more time to install. Trust me on that one. You would be lucky to get a reliable motor and tranny for that price at which point it would look very nice sitting on the ground next to the car.

 

The Weber's can be had used - this board, craigslist, and ebay are good places to look. Figure on spending about $200 once it's all said and done for a used carb and to rebuild/install it.

 

There are TONS of threads about Weber's on your engine and the EA81 (same basic install). Just do some searches and you'll find what you need.

 

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Edited by GeneralDisorder
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heartless, I hear you loud and clear, I've been looking non-stop the last month for a GL or Loyale wagon with no luck. The Dude Abides, if you're seriously getting a semi trailer loaded with west coast Subarus, put me on the list for a 5 speed wagon GL or Loyale.

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Search EA81 + Weber. EA71's use the same adaptor plate and have the same basic layout and jetting requirements. They are just not as common anymore and the EA81 was used exclusively from '82 on and was used in '81 as well on the higher end models.

 

That book is somewhat useful. It's floating around here on the board in PDF form but as usual with manuals it chickens out on the hard stuff and says to take it to the dealer - like for "pressing" out axles. For which you don't even need a press in the real world :rolleyes:

 

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ha no thanks those things are useless if the manuals from 90s cars are similar to the ones for 80s cars

 

but if you ever want to hang out and show me a few things that'd be cool, like I said above, totally new to carbs and cars this old, and there are things I'd like to do but I simply don't know how

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ha no thanks those things are useless if the manuals from 90s cars are similar to the ones for 80s cars

 

but if you ever want to hang out and show me a few things that'd be cool, like I said above, totally new to carbs and cars this old, and there are things I'd like to do but I simply don't know how

 

If you want a manual I like HTKYSA.

 

Or How To Keep Your Subaru Alive :)

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Oooo - sign me up for a 1st gen Lego wagon (LS would be awesome), 5spd, AWD!!! :banana:

 

We have pretty clean examples running around here and not nearly as bad a drive. Go south and get on Amtrak somewhere, ride out, and drive one home. Happy to help with it if you want.

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Go for it - it's a lot of work though. And the EA82 engine is not highly regarded - most of us feel that would be a downgrade even though it's technically more HP. The timing belts, hydraulic lifters prone to ticking, etc really suck.

 

The EA82 is a LOT wider. It is virtually impossible to service it without pulling it back out when it's installed into the EA81 body.

 

The power steering won't work as the EA82 body is too wide to use it's cross-member. And a Loyale definitely does not have ABS. Only Legacy's and up got ABS.

 

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Edited by GeneralDisorder
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