ghostrider2k Posted February 18, 2004 Share Posted February 18, 2004 Was always a MOPAR guy however, I bought a 1987 GL-10 turbo for my fiancee, and it won't make inspection in my state (MD) because of the digital shift indicator in the dash... The P, R, N, is lit and works but the D, 2, 1, is out. now are these flourecent tubes or is it lit buy a lamp or what? I really need some help in this or am I stuck? Thanks, GR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Partsman Posted February 18, 2004 Share Posted February 18, 2004 Jeez, they require the shift indicator lights to work? What a crock! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghostrider2k Posted February 18, 2004 Author Share Posted February 18, 2004 Yeah, tell me about it....anyway? anyone have any ideas or a dash breakdown they can post or email me? Something that shows how to get that far? Thanks everyone GR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted February 18, 2004 Share Posted February 18, 2004 pretty sure they're lit by just a regular light not a fluorecent light. Just take the digidash out and there should be a bunch of lights in the back sticking out. Not really sure cause I haven't had a lot of experience with digidashes but thats just my $.02 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Partsman Posted February 18, 2004 Share Posted February 18, 2004 I agree - they are probably just bulbs, but I don't have firsthand knowledge of digidash. The other possibility is that it could be the switch that turns those bulbs on. On my wife's 88 Camry, it's part of the neutral safety switch. But take the dash out and have a look - it only takes a few screws (at least on my 88 GL). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted February 18, 2004 Share Posted February 18, 2004 i would guess they are bulbs, the little 194 looking but smaller bulbs .i can tell you for sure they are bulbs in analog clusters. my car has a digi dash, but its a 5spd from my experience jumping the neutral safety, i hve found that the harness in the shifter itself lights the indicators, so lift up the console plate and do some troubleshooting there, too to remove the digital cluster, remove the screws on the bottom edge of the instrument bezel. pop out the OFF and DEF buttons on the heater control, remove the 2 screws remove more screws on the underside of the top, and all your switchg knobs. the area of the bezel arnd the ventsw snaps in hope this gives you an idea of what to get into Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted February 18, 2004 Share Posted February 18, 2004 In my 86 FSM, it doesnt show anything for the shift indicator. But most of the bulbs are 12v and 1.12-1.14W. I have 2 digidashes that were from AT's, and I'm sure theres working bulbs in them. Would you like a few? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghostrider2k Posted February 18, 2004 Author Share Posted February 18, 2004 I found a diagram to the dash and all of them indicate individual bulbs, and I agree with MilesFox they probably are the smaller version of the 194 bulb. Partsman, I too thought of the neutral safety switch but the actual lighting of the letterd of the D,2, 1 don't light but the P, R , N do and so does the small indicator next to it. And lastly thanks for the offer Turbone, but I think I got some bulbs laying around out of some newer fords I took apart. Once again thanks for all your help guys! GR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted February 18, 2004 Share Posted February 18, 2004 GR the speed-0 cable may need removed to get the cluster out, I didn't see this mentioned. Getting it out is not hard but not a picnic either. The shift console on the other hand, is not as difficult. (the coin tray infront ot the hand brake is a snap fit, removing it allows access to the rear console mounting screws) You may want to test the shift light actuator first, strange for those three lamps to all be out. The actuator could have slipped or moved into a position where the gear lever looses contact with as it swings into the D 2 1 position. BTW I found this on another post discussing removing the gauge cluster, thought it might be worth reading. Hope this helps. There are two sets of hidden screws (on the wagon, anyway) that you have to find to get the instrument cluster bezel off. Look for small (1/2" tall) plastic pieces in the black vent area of the bezel. Pry them off and the screws are behind them.You may be in luck, and they have fallen out so you can see the screws. Drove me nuts when I replaced my dash, instrument cluster, and bezel. You will probably need to drop the steering column when you put it back together. That was the only way I could fit my hand back there to connect the speedo cable. __________________ SubSandRail Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghostrider2k Posted February 18, 2004 Author Share Posted February 18, 2004 thanks for the info, but may I pose a question? When the dash is 'on' shoulden't the P/R/N/D/2/1 all be lit? even though the indicator on the side is not on that 'position' as it were? You see what I am getting at, even though the indicator bar is out on the dash, so is the D/2/1 lettering also, so if it is the indicator slide, wouldn't those Letters still be lit but the indicator bar not be lit on those places? (the indicator bar functions once up into N/R/P turning green then red as you go up to park..I think it changes color, I don't remember now, but it does come on next to the N/R/P letters on the dash.) Still kinda in the dark here, and yeah I forgot about the Speed cable coming loose... bet that will be fun... any thought/comments appreciated! GR PS the diagram I have from ALLData seems to show individual bulbs under each area... deeper and deeper I go... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted February 18, 2004 Share Posted February 18, 2004 Sorry GR, I didn't understand all of this in the original post. Real strange all these segments and lights would be burned out. The PC board may be cracked? solder joint loose. Guess a piece of black tape and another inspection station is not in the cards - just until you get it fixed I just hate to see you get it all ripped apart and find the lamps are still good. A used dash would have an incorrect odometer reading. It might be swapable? They are available, and they are normally more reliable than the older digi-dashes. I have one from a 87 automatic GL-10 but it is kinda reserved for my 89 GL-10. Justin Case There is one being dismantled on the 'marketplace" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
asavage Posted February 19, 2004 Share Posted February 19, 2004 Originally posted by ghostrider2k I found a diagram to the dash and all of them indicate individual bulbs, and I agree with MilesFox they probably are the smaller version of the 194 bulb. I bought an '88 GL cluster from XSNRG from which to rob the temp gauge. This afternoon was slow, so I took it apart. It's from a MT car, so no PRNDL but the same top-view car ideogram, and the basic parts are the same. I yanked out a bulb and am holding it now. I have never seen this kind of bulb afore. These bulbs look like maybe a PC36, but with a female socket base with two holes; the dash's PCB has two pins upon which this bulb slides on. I have a bulb catalog at work, I'll try to run down the industry number for it, but it sure doesn't look like anything in the automotive arena that I've seen. And it's definitely not a wedge base like a 168/194. <later> Oh, the female pin base can be removed, and the bulb's pigtails straighened out. OK, this looks more like what I've seen, just a round cylindrical bulb with two bare wires hanging out the bottom. Might even be able to take a PC36 and swap bases. Skip said: A used dash would have an incorrect odometer reading. It might be swapable? It sure is, at least on the analog one I've got here. Lots and lots of screws, but as long as you don't have to swap the fuel or voltmeter gauges, it's straightforward and doesn't require any more attention than keeping track of which screws go in which holes -- there are several different styles and lengths, so it does require some attention. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted February 19, 2004 Share Posted February 19, 2004 i know that on an analog gauge, the part behind the prndl on autos and 4wd hi/lo on mys will swap out. so the light assembly itself must swap out? dont know for sure on the digi. the bulbs are kind of like christmas lightsm (the bulb part) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted February 20, 2004 Share Posted February 20, 2004 Al, I opened up a 87 AT cluster after reading your post. Its similar, but different. Theres a small PCB with 2 receps for plugs that covers the display PCB. 3 screws for the small board, and 2 for the display board. The bulbs for the gear selection are real small. They might even be smaller than what you are showing. I've taken a few pics and added the links. Basically , the bulb is the same, just smaller. GR, my offer still stands if you cant find any. Board in Board out Gear selection The bulb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
asavage Posted February 20, 2004 Share Posted February 20, 2004 Originally posted by Turbone Al, I opened up a 87 AT cluster after reading your post. Its similar, but different. Just guessing, but isn't that a digi-dash? It sure does not look like my analog '93 or the '88 GL that XSNRG sent me. The bulbs for the gear selection are real small. They might even be smaller than what you are showing. I think it may be the same bulb. 5.5mm = .220": about one-fifth of an inch diameter. Bulb length for the 2162 is just a smidge over 1/2", which scales well with your needlenose pliers, I think. See if your bulb can be removed from the white base, by straightening out the leads. That's how the one I've got here came out (black base with female holes, in my case). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted February 20, 2004 Share Posted February 20, 2004 Al, the dash in question is a digidash. There are some larger bulbs in the black rubber sockets like yours. I think thats the size your talking about. I posted this because I noticed there was a difference between the 2. Are you including the wire in the measurement? The actual bulb itself is a hair over 1/4 (sorry, no mic). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
asavage Posted February 20, 2004 Share Posted February 20, 2004 I put a dial caliper on the bulb, and it's only .164" dia., so I was completely wrong about the 2162. I am still looking . . . I found a slightly shorter version in a '91-95 Caravan/Voyager light switch. It uses a white plastic twist-lock base like a PC series. The bulb is identical to the Subaru one, once it's removed from the base. I'll keep trying to track down the industry number for this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hondasucks Posted February 21, 2004 Share Posted February 21, 2004 You could just get a cluster out of a manual transmission car, it woudln't have the indicator, and I dont' think they'd know the difference at the inspection station! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
asavage Posted February 21, 2004 Share Posted February 21, 2004 More, better info this time. This is the bulb that is used in the center of the analog instrument cluster, the one with the car ideogram, height control, rear gate lock, defrost, high beam, 4WD, LO, park brake, seat belt, door lock, and PRND21 indicators (depending upon model & options). (no picture at this time) It may also be used on the digi-dash on one side: The plastic/rubber base used on the bulb is apparently different for the digi-dash (white) and the analog dash (black) and is a different shape, but the bulb itself seems to be the same. The sample I have measures .163" x .438". This is apparently a 7752, 7753, or 7754: The above image is chopped up from Chicago Miniature Lamp's minature lamp PDF . I have not found a definite supplier for small qtys of this lamp, but there is at least one good possibility. Mouser's min. order is 1000, none in stock, $0.46 ea. Newark's min. order is 1000, none in stock, $0.41 ea. Sager's min. order is 100, none in stock (?), no price given. Atlanta Light Bulbs' min. order unknown, stock may be good (?), $2.40 ea. They also list the 7753 & 7754 bulbs, for $1.20 ea. For completeness, I should call the dealer next week and see what they want for one. (other URLs for reference, though not really useful: this is so I can find them next time. Generic overseas bulb supplier: Tair L.S. Micro Development, Inc. Miniature Lamps 17 DonsBulbs: #7752 - bulb lamp - bulbs lamps ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghostrider2k Posted February 21, 2004 Author Share Posted February 21, 2004 Thanks again for all your delligent help guys. Now I read all above, but does anyone have an exploded view of the dash or any source material to see how it comes apart...such a small dash and I am afraid of breaking the led guages or the speedo part. Again any help greatly appreciated!!! GR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted February 22, 2004 Share Posted February 22, 2004 Opening the front of the cluster isnt necessary. The piece that holds the lamps is on the back/right side, and I posted the pics of disassembly. On other clusters I have removed I have found that a very long screwdriver used to pop off the speedo collar works well. If its still hard to get to and remove, detach it from the tranny. It will give you the slack you need up above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghostrider2k Posted February 23, 2004 Author Share Posted February 23, 2004 Well before I fix this problem...does anyone know how to disable the factory alarm system? Damn thing keeps running the battery down (prior owner never ran the car much so I thought it was this, but the alarm system + weak battery = dead car it seems...) cant find which fuse they tapped or which one disable the alarm without setting it off, etc.. thanks again guys.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted February 23, 2004 Share Posted February 23, 2004 Factory alarm on an 87 GL-10 Turbo? Never heard of such a beast. Please tell me more about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghostrider2k Posted February 24, 2004 Author Share Posted February 24, 2004 Was on the invoice sticker also. Some kind of small black keypad that mounted under the dash but is now in the console. Black box on the firewall has all the wiring connected to it, all under a metal cover. Dunno more than that, afraid to disable the wires incase it knocks out the starter (former owner had the battery 'die' a few times, then as soon as he gave the battery juice from a jump box, it would start. I had a suspsision it was knocking out the starter...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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