First-time brake job questions, '02 Legacy

[FreeLegacy]

Hi folks,

 

I'm planning to replace the rotors and pads on a '02 Legacy wagon. Our usual mechanic, a Firestone repair shop, advised that they needed replacing. This will be my first time attempting such a thing. Even so, I have high hopes for the outcome.

 

As I read the Haynes manual I have a few questions.

 

How do you use brake system cleaner? Just spray it on and let it evaporate? Or wipe it off?

 

The manual says to depress the piston into the caliper with a C clamp. I'll need to buy a C clamp. Does anyone know what size I should buy?

 

Any recommendations on which rotors or pads to buy? Or a price point? The car has 107,000 miles; it is the wife's car and she loves it and we'll probably keep it for a few or several years. I'm thinking not the cheapest, not the best, perhaps middle-of-the road price point? What do you think?

 

I think that's all for now. Thanks in advance for any input. I will probably attempt this next week.

 

Dave in Cleveland

[johnceggleston]

I'm planning to replace the rotors and pads on a '02 Legacy wagon. Our usual mechanic, a Firestone repair shop, advised that they needed replacing.

 

first you need to know that the mwchanics make money on selling you repairs you did not ask for when you first took your car in. you may need brakes, but you may not. he may have just been trying to sell you something.

 

second, whjat are the brakes doing? are they making noise, or vibrating??

noise could mean you need both pads and rotors, vibrating could mean rotors. but if they are making noise or vibrating you may only need pads.

 

i've been replacing pads on my 90 nissan pickup for years, and only now at 180k+ have the rotors started to warp and vibrate.

 

The manual says to depress the piston into the caliper with a C clamp. I'll need to buy a C clamp. Does anyone know what size I should buy?

 

i usuualy use a c-clamp, but i have done it without. in that case i use a large screwdriver, inserted through the holes in the caliper into the vent openings in the rotor, at first, to pry the caliper toward the outside of the car. when i have enough room, i reposition the screwdriver between the outside pad and the rotor, and pry again. it does not matter if you mess up the pad, it is being replaced, but try not to scratch up the rotor too much if you can help it. (ps: do not add brake fluid before you change the pads, compressing the caliper pistons will push fluid back into the master cylinder, if it is already full it will over flow.)

 

you should re-grease the slide pins.

 

once you have the caliper open enough to replace the pads the rotors are just 2 more bolts on the caliper bracket, but there is a good chance they may not need to be changed unless you have a braking issue.

 

when you are finished, be sure to pump the brake pedal several short strokes until firm to refill the brake lines with fluid before you drive it. then check the fluid level in the master cylinder.

[idosubaru]

clean and grease the slides with brake caliper grease (not regular grease). do not skip this step. this is one reason it's good to do your own pads, i'm sure many places skip that step. i would guess very few of the subaru's that come through my hands seem like the slides have ever been touched...meaning shops aren't doing it.

 

if the brakes aren't vibrating at all, keep your rotors. i'd rather have good stock rotors than lower grade aftermarket. if they vibrate or for a better job, have them turned - $15 each for me, but that is annoying i'm lucky enough to have a place right across from work.

 

if you liked the pads that were on there i'd consider Subaru pads rather than taking your chances with something else. order online or ask your local dealer if they can match the online discounted price.

 

i like the adaptive one ceramic pads from napa are nice and come with new hardware, the metal clips. but they're expensive.

 

i just did my rear pads on my daily driver last summer. had to do them again last month - turns out the clips..eventhough mostly shiny and silver had just enough build up on one spot to prevent the pad from sliding easily and caused it to wear out quickly. all that to say - clean the metal clips that the pads slide into.

 

brake cleaner evaporates very fast, no need to wipe down. done carefully you won't even need it. grease the slides with the rotor removed, install rotors (new or turned), clip in pads, and you're done.

 

c-clamp - i don't know how to say size, but it's a big one, need to be able to gap like 6-8 inches or something like that. i've also used large channel locks and my hands before too, to compress the pistons.

[Olnick]

I have a 9" C-clamp (think that's what it was called) that spans 6.5" when fully open. Fits my Legacy and wife's Maxima nicely.

[Rooster2]

When I replace brake pads, I find something to rest the caliper upon while replacing the pads. Usually, it is an old cardboard box. The idea is that you don't want the caliper to "hang" down from the brake line. Rubber brake lines aren't designed to support the weight of the caliper.

 

I agree with others, you don't need to replace the rotors if they have not been producing vibration or pulsing, when the brakes are applied.

 

I used to live in the Cleveland area (Strongsville), so I remember that a lot of salt was applied to the roads. Suggest you spray the caliper bolts with PB blaster and wait a while for the liquid to soak in. Otherwise, the bolts may be rusted in tight.

 

Suggest that you also replace (bleed out) the brake fluid in your braking system. If it is the original since 02, the fluid is prolly pretty dark and nasty looking.

 

Brake pads from an auto parts store don't cost much. Suggest you buy their better pads, but not necessarily their best pads. Good luck on your brake job!

 

Larry (Rooster2)