Dantes Inferno Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 Hypa on Nasioc welded his auto center diff to turn his imp rwd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frogstar7055 Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 Hypa on Nasioc welded his auto center diff to turn his imp rwd. No problem on tarmac if he took out the front diff (i.e. RWD). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted June 27, 2010 Author Share Posted June 27, 2010 will get run to a t-case.......so, no probs here either then.........cheers, brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted July 3, 2010 Share Posted July 3, 2010 Problem is that the 4eat already has a history of shearing off the hub where it's welded to the end of the output shaft. But it likely would work well for a bit. It's worth noting, the Phase II 4eats have a WAAAAAY more solid transfer output. Also they are almost 3 inches shorter. That's your answer. Weld that ************ up, which is just the same as letting the cluchpack lock normally, and it will probably shear the output splined shaft off of the hub you weld to the clutch basket. So go ahead and weld the ************er, the clutchpack isn't the weak point. You could cut 1 wire and get the exact same result as taking the transfer housing off, dissasembling and cleaning the parts, welding the hub to the basket, cleaning again, and putting back together. Weld what you want, it still doesn't make sense. I've seen a legacy turbo light 'em up sideways down the road with a busted front axle and a locked clutch pack. RWD output through the clutchpack worked fine. But go ahead and make extra work for yourself, mabe welding it up will give you warm fuzzy feelings about it. Showing how little you know about the workings of the tranny by calling it a viscous coupler is kinda stupid. It aint a center diff either. Repeat after me: TRANSFER CLUTCH PACK. A diff would have gears, this has frictions and steels, and hydraulic pressure clamping them together. Just like the other clutches controlling the planeteries in the rest of the tranny. You can weld up the center diff, which has a viscous coupler, on a manual EJ transmission. None of those parts exist to weld on an automatic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted July 5, 2010 Author Share Posted July 5, 2010 (edited) That's your answer. Weld that ************ up, which is just the same as letting the cluchpack lock normally, and it will probably shear the output splined shaft off of the hub you weld to the clutch basket. So go ahead and weld the ************er, the clutchpack isn't the weak point. You could cut 1 wire and get the exact same result as taking the transfer housing off, dissasembling and cleaning the parts, welding the hub to the basket, cleaning again, and putting back together. Weld what you want, it still doesn't make sense. I've seen a legacy turbo light 'em up sideways down the road with a busted front axle and a locked clutch pack. RWD output through the clutchpack worked fine. But go ahead and make extra work for yourself, mabe welding it up will give you warm fuzzy feelings about it. Showing how little you know about the workings of the tranny by calling it a viscous coupler is kinda stupid. It aint a center diff either. Repeat after me: TRANSFER CLUTCH PACK. A diff would have gears, this has frictions and steels, and hydraulic pressure clamping them together. Just like the other clutches controlling the planeteries in the rest of the tranny. You can weld up the center diff, which has a viscous coupler, on a manual EJ transmission. None of those parts exist to weld on an automatic. are you talking to him^, or me? welding would be for mechanical advantage, over electrical.i have read , and reread the electrical options.i want the TCU involved as little as possible. going in an offroad only rig. so , thanks for your input sweetheart.cheers, brian Edited July 5, 2010 by monstaru Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted July 5, 2010 Author Share Posted July 5, 2010 if it breaks , it breaks. i just really never thought i would use the transmission anyway.but thought i would ask about it. sorry i am not a very technical writer.cause really , it could be called a a ************in rectal discombobulator....who gives a ************. everyone knew what i was talking about. powerglide FTMFW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frogstar7055 Posted July 6, 2010 Share Posted July 6, 2010 monstaru Are you talking about welding up the transfer clutch itself? If you are have you thought about making a drive slug to take the place of the plates instead? And it wasn't until 2 posts ago that you said anything about a transfer case so binding would not be an issue like I stated posts ago. Just saying. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted July 6, 2010 Author Share Posted July 6, 2010 monstaru Are you talking about welding up the transfer clutch itself? If you are have you thought about making a drive slug to take the place of the plates instead? And it wasn't until 2 posts ago that you said anything about a transfer case so binding would not be an issue like I stated posts ago. Just saying. i have thought about it, but alas...i don't have a mill. i have a couple of tail shafts that i harvested a while back for another project .....all in all, i was trying to find a way to utilize our 4eat so i do not have to farm out to much work...but oh well..... the other option was to take a nissan pathfinder version of our trans , and put our bellhousing onto it....... they are the same mainbody.but, it is already attached to the ax10(?) transfer case....which i have looked into as well. the same spline count tailshafts......just about the right length too..... anyways, i digress....cheers, brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted July 6, 2010 Share Posted July 6, 2010 can't use the existing parts to make that slug huh, what a cool idea? .i want the TCU involved as little as possible. cutting the wire does exactly what you said - removes TCU involvement in the control of the rear transfer clutches so you can control it (with a switch) or just leave it "locked" - at this point it's not electrical at all - isn't it all mechanical or hydraulic too possibly?. but i realize that's not what you're after and i'd like to see your welding skills put to good use! you can also have the TCU involved as little as possible - by which i mean not at all - by unplugging it. defaults to 3rd gear and "locked" transfer clutches. driving around in 3rd gear is awesome. i haven't done it to one of these yet, but i would not recommend it in an EA82!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frogstar7055 Posted July 7, 2010 Share Posted July 7, 2010 (edited) the other option was to take a nissan pathfinder version of our trans , and put our bellhousing onto it....... they are the same mainbody.but, it is already attached to the ax10(?) transfer case....which i have looked into as well. the same spline count tailshafts......just about the right length too..... anyways, i digress....cheers, brian Are you saying this trans (nissan pathfinder) will bolt to our bell housing on a 4eat? With a married transfer case on it? Does it bolt to the front Subie diff case? If so that almost REQUIRES I put solid axles under my Foz. Something I've given serious thought to,this would make it all the easier. Any info you have on this would be greatly appreciated. Edited July 7, 2010 by frogstar7055 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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