NinjaTech Posted June 9, 2010 Share Posted June 9, 2010 (edited) I was starting to take apart my open diff on my wagon to swap my LSD in. I drained the gear oil and then went to break the stub bolts loose and the head on one of them sheared in half. I'm not sure what to do to get the stubs out so I can swap my LSD in there. Am I screwed and have to buy a new open diff? Also are the stubs the same in the LSD and on the open diff? Just wondering in case I need to break out the angle grinder. edit: as a side note, if I can't get the diff out. would it be possible to weld it while still in the housing? I could either use my friends 110v mig or his tig machine. The tig is able to do stick as well. what do you guys think would be the best choice in this situation? Edited June 9, 2010 by NinjaTech Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstaru Posted June 9, 2010 Share Posted June 9, 2010 yep , cut the stub off right about the same place it broke to get your eyes on it, then cut off more of the stub, and none of the bolt.take that piece of the stub off.then grab bolt with vice grips. soaking them in pb blaster works pretty well if they are stubborn.of course we have cut as many as we have saved too......so , i guess it's a fifty-50 shot.cheers, brain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted June 9, 2010 Share Posted June 9, 2010 Where you using an E-10 socket (reverse torxs) or just a standard 10mm? I have found there is no substitut for the E-10. Had to order them from Cornwell tools...but they had em. Note* needs to be 1/4 drive, deepwell or it won't fit into the stub opening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sube4x4 Posted June 9, 2010 Share Posted June 9, 2010 You said you had access to a TIG welder? Just weld something onto the broken stub. Such as a piece of bar stock or some scrap. -cody Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 9, 2010 Share Posted June 9, 2010 You said you had access to a TIG welder? Just weld something onto the broken stub. Such as a piece of bar stock or some scrap. -cody yep, weld a nut to the top of the stud then you can use a socket to get it out. +1 to the E10 bit, i listened to that advice and I'm glad i did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted June 9, 2010 Share Posted June 9, 2010 yep , cut the stub off right about the same place it broke to get your eyes on it, then cut off more of the stub, and none of the bolt.take that piece of the stub off.then grab bolt with vice grips.soaking them in pb blaster works pretty well if they are stubborn.of course we have cut as many as we have saved too......so , i guess it's a fifty-50 shot.cheers, brain thats what i did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NinjaTech Posted June 9, 2010 Author Share Posted June 9, 2010 yes, I was using an E10 socket after I found out that they weren't 8mm bolts when I was taking the LSD chunk out. I guess I can try sube4x4's suggestion of welding some aluminum stock to it this weekend too when I go to my friends. Just hope I can get the metal clean enough to weld properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted June 9, 2010 Share Posted June 9, 2010 If I were doing it, I would cut the stub, then center punch and drill the head off the bolt and pull the stub out. Once you do that the bolt should just turn out without any tension on it from the stub. Aluminium isn't going to work - you can't weld Aluminium to steel even with TIG. Just weld a proper sized nut to the stud if you go that route. Then put an impact on it set to a low setting and just hammer on it for a while to loosen it. Should turn out relatively easily though I've had to weld nuts to broken studs anywhere from 1 to 10 times before I got the broken bit to spin out rather than just break the weld. I would drill the head off first though. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NinjaTech Posted June 9, 2010 Author Share Posted June 9, 2010 If I were doing it, I would cut the stub, then center punch and drill the head off the bolt and pull the stub out. Once you do that the bolt should just turn out without any tension on it from the stub. Aluminium isn't going to work - you can't weld Aluminium to steel even with TIG. Just weld a proper sized nut to the stud if you go that route. Then put an impact on it set to a low setting and just hammer on it for a while to loosen it. Should turn out relatively easily though I've had to weld nuts to broken studs anywhere from 1 to 10 times before I got the broken bit to spin out rather than just break the weld. I would drill the head off first though. GD I thought they were aluminum since it broke so easy and is about the same color. I could weld on it whatever metal it is though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted June 10, 2010 Share Posted June 10, 2010 It's a high-carbon steel so it may look similar to aluminium at the point of fracture but I assure you it is not. Aluminium of that diameter wouldn't hold for long . GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obk25xt Posted June 10, 2010 Share Posted June 10, 2010 Note* needs to be 1/4 drive, deepwell or it won't fit into the stub opening. I have a 3/8" drive deepwell e10 with an impact driver, fits fine and works great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted June 10, 2010 Share Posted June 10, 2010 I have a 3/8" drive deepwell e10 with an impact driver, fits fine and works great. <<<jealous. What brand? I couldn't find any in 3/8ths drive that where slim enough to fit inside the stub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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