Rust bubbles

[john40iowa]

I noticed recently behind the rear wheels around the lip of the wells- body exterior there is rust bubbles. They are maybe about two inches in diameter total, and about the same for both sides of the car. I took it to a body shop today and they would only do a total sheet metal replacement, which would cost $3500.00 per side. They recommend against patching a painting, as rust might reappear in the general area. It being a '99 would obviously be too old to justify major work. I am thinking about sanding the area myself, patching it and applying a decal (no decals on presently on this Forester). Any pointers on finding really good decals?

Thanks

[gbhrps]

I had a 97 Outback Limited that used a dark grey decal around the wheel wells. I wouldn't be surprised that after your body work, you could apply the same thing.

 

Here's a hint. The body shop that I work for from time to time does a lot of sheet metal repairs for rust and collision. Whenever we have to replace a decal we don't purchase a new one from the dealership. We digitally photograph a good decal on the car, or from the manufacturer's website, and take its dimensions. We drop off chip from the camera and the dimensions to a local graphics shop and they make one up for us, usually within a day or two, and for a fraction of the cost that GM or Ford wanted for it.

 

I'm suggesting that you get a photo of the Outback Limited from the late 90's, take that with the proper length/width, etc. to your local graphics house and see what they can do for you. Good Luck!

[nipper]

I had a 97 Outback Limited that used a dark grey decal around the wheel wells. I wouldn't be surprised that after your body work, you could apply the same thing.

 

 

That is exactly what i did.

 

 

nipper

[Allpar Mod]

Make sure you treat the rusted areas after you grind to good metal and before you patch the holes or it will reoccur. Try as best as possible to get the chemicals in the back of the metal also. There are a couple very good rust treatments made by SEM which are available at body shop suppliers in most major cities. Rust Mort and Rust Seal are two of the better SEM products.

[mikec03]

In the areas you describe, you probably have penetration or the rust is so deep that you can't grind it out. It will come back unless you get rid of all the rust. What I have done, on 3 subarus, is cut out enough of the metal to squirt behind the metal [say 2"x3"]. In the back and front, I apply naval jelly [phosphoric acid] wash and dry, then rust converter. Then fiberglass, bondo, and paint.

[bheinen74]

post the pics.....

all subarus in iowa will have rust when they are 11 years old, if winter driven. Did you tell the shop you could go out west and buy a rustfree one for less than they will charge to get yours fixed....:-\ (3500 a side.....yikes)

[nipper]

Blus Rust

 

 

 

 

[john40iowa]

post the pics.....

all subarus in iowa will have rust when they are 11 years old, if winter driven. Did you tell the shop you could go out west and buy a rustfree one for less than they will charge to get yours fixed....:-\ (3500 a side.....yikes)

 

Yes indeed, I stated the car wasn't even worth that much money. He explained this was for a perfect all new sheet metal , basically factory blended into the body. I tried to tell him my daily driver is loved, but not a show car. He said and I believe it, people spend a lot on patch and then come back six months later complaining of new rust.

[john40iowa]

In the areas you describe, you probably have penetration or the rust is so deep that you can't grind it out. It will come back unless you get rid of all the rust. What I have done, on 3 subarus, is cut out enough of the metal to squirt behind the metal [say 2"x3"]. In the back and front, I apply naval jelly [phosphoric acid] wash and dry, then rust converter. Then fiberglass, bondo, and paint.

My car looks almost identical to Nippers, minus a decal. I will do as prescribed above- found the Rust Mort today on line. My goal is not to keep a like new car, but rather a respectable daily driver for maybe 7 more years. The rest of the car runs and looks great. Thanks to all for the pointers.

[nipper]

My car looks almost identical to Nippers, minus a decal. I will do as prescribed above- found the Rust Mort today on line. My goal is not to keep a like new car, but rather a respectable daily driver for maybe 7 more years. The rest of the car runs and looks great. Thanks to all for the pointers.

 

I was a litttle surprised as to the size of the hole I had to grind out to get to bare metal. I used a dremel tool and used duplicolor rust conversion spray.

 

My body filler work aint pretty, but the sticker helps hide a lot of sins.

[Allpar Mod]

As I pointed out, the reason for returns to the body shop...untreated rust patched up. Even on surface rust, grinding and sanding it makes it look like it's all gone, but if you looked close enough with a magnifier, you'd see it in pores of shiny metal near where the bulk of the rust was. This is why a rust converter is so necessary. Use it on the adjacent areas to the main hole and soon you'll see spots of black, the rust in the pores being converted.

 

Naval Jelly is one of the oldest ones that actually worked. I remember my dad using it when I was a kid and that's a while ago. Truthfully, I forgot about it as it's been a long time since I used it. The SEM body products are superior as they are designed to work on body metal. The Rust Seal is a bit thicker than the Rust Mort and will cling a bit better, but both work very well. I have used them both. I haven't heard any feedback on the DupliColor product so I have no opinion either way.

[bheinen74]

ah, a thread that no person in the NW can really truly relate to.

John, you have the right idea. Try to make it look decent another 7 years. Spend some of your labor yourself, grind out what you can, use rust converter, bondo filler, paint to make look nice. Holds up a few years, then go at it again. You can keep it looking okay for the 7 or so years until it best to just give up and get something else. You have the right idea...thats waht my family does, and when its time to move on, sell it dirt cheap and find something solid to begin the process over.

the way the economy is, buying a new car is not possible for most of us. Living with rust is the norm, its what we can afford. When you start parking on peoples driveways, and it rains and debris of flakey rust falls off just from rain and leaves rust on your friends driveways, then its time to move on.