Grimm Posted June 24, 2010 Share Posted June 24, 2010 (edited) Well, I finally picked up a Subaru. Drove out to Steadman, NC and bought it today Almost crashed into the back of a lorry on the way home too, Its a 1985 BRAT Gl with 150,000 on the clock, rust free, and has complete jumpseats with seatbelts and a topper. Going to drive it to college after I get it running better. Also planning on a 6" SJR lift or lift of some sort (and whatever rims i can find for it cheap), a rollbar with daylighters, and a winch/prerunner with offroad lighting. Couple chaps up at wilco-hess found my keys humorous as well; starts with a filed down paint-can hook! Need a new ignition switch and door locks. Few questions for the pros: 1. Guy said it needs a trans mount (kinda hard to get into reverse) would this cause such a problem? 2. I was putting around in it (got home, unloaded it, and tested it out on some hills and a dirtbike track, hehe ) and it has a tick and randomly decides to die while driving. Ive noticed it does it when i am on the road, but not so much when Im scooting through my yard? Kind of strange. Havent really begun to look into it much, but I thought Id post if anyone wants to generously save me some time 3. It also needs front drive axles cause they are more than chatty (click up a storm) Anyhow. I will begin my search for info and fixes tomorrow, as it is getting late. Any advice on getting my ute rollin is much appreciated, as I am a new soob owner and never messed with them before. Its honestly a great bit different than the Fords I am used to repairing. Also if theres anyone out here towards winston-salem, NC Im always down for wheelin and off-road fun (as soon as its on the road and reliable that is) Thanks, -Grimm Edited June 24, 2010 by Grimm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2manetoys Posted June 24, 2010 Share Posted June 24, 2010 Well, I finally picked up a Subaru. Drove out to Steadman, NC and bought it today Almost crashed into the back of a lorry on the way home too, Its a 1985 BRAT Gl with 150,000 on the clock, rust free, and has complete jumpseats with seatbelts and a topper. Going to drive it to college after I get it running better. Also planning on a 6" SJR lift or lift of some sort (and whatever rims i can find for it cheap), a rollbar with daylighters, and a winch/prerunner with offroad lighting. Couple chaps up at wilco-hess found my keys humorous as well; starts with a filed down paint-can hook! Need a new ignition switch and door locks. Few questions for the pros: 1. Guy said it needs a trans mount (kinda hard to get into reverse) would this cause such a problem? 2. I was putting around in it (got home, unloaded it, and tested it out on some hills and a dirtbike track, hehe ) and it has a tick and randomly decides to die while driving. Ive noticed it does it when i am on the road, but not so much when Im scooting through my yard? Kind of strange. Havent really begun to look into it much, but I thought Id post if anyone wants to generously save me some time 3. It also needs front drive axles cause they are more than chatty (click up a storm) Anyhow. I will begin my search for info and fixes tomorrow, as it is getting late. Any advice on getting my ute rollin is much appreciated, as I am a new soob owner and never messed with them before. Its honestly a great bit different than the Fords I am used to repairing. Also if theres anyone out here towards winston-salem, NC Im always down for wheelin and off-road fun (as soon as its on the road and reliable that is) Thanks, -Grimm First off CONGRATS on the Brat! While I'm no where near a pro (a rookie at best), I've been having a similar random dying issue with my 85 Brat GL. It's been suggested that I change the Distributor (and I have), but I haven't had a chance to test it out yet because I'm in the midst of a seat swap. If it cures it, I'll LYK. If not, I'm buying a highly suggested Weber Carburetor. You're in teh right place for good people and good advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5_IMP Posted June 24, 2010 Share Posted June 24, 2010 Almost crashed into the back of a lorry on the way home too, Couple chaps up at wilco-hess found my keys humorous as well; starts with a filed down paint-can hook! Need a new ignition switch and door locks. Any advice on getting my ute rollin is much appreciated, as I am a new soob owner and never messed with them before. I'm confused. Are you a Brit, Kiwi, or Aussie living in NC? Or do you just talk funny? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimm Posted June 24, 2010 Author Share Posted June 24, 2010 Hahaha, maybe I just talk funny But yeah, do let me know about that distributor swap. I do hope it is something minor and minimal on the scale of complexity. I tell you, Im itching to take the ute with me up to the sand dunes in Michigan this weekend Too bad its not 100% running now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2manetoys Posted June 24, 2010 Share Posted June 24, 2010 I drove mine 100 miles home from where I purchased it and it only dies once, then started back up 5 minutes later and drove the rest of the way home. before I changed the distributor it would only go 1 or 3 miles then die. Sounded like it was either starving for fuel or choking on it and would lurch and jerk. Shut it down for a few minutes and then it would take off again for a few miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 24, 2010 Share Posted June 24, 2010 i've cleaned, greased, and rebooted clicking/vibrating axles before and they quiet right up, even on my lifted XT6 last year. might be worth a shot since aftermarket axles aren't great quality anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted June 24, 2010 Share Posted June 24, 2010 (edited) Welcome to the USMB. You came to the right place. The tick: Usually sticky lifters. Make sure you're not low on oil. Also, try a can of Rislone with the next oil change to clean out the gunk in the engine. I use it with three quarts of 20W-50 the first time and then switch back to 10W-30 or 10W-40 without the Rislone for the next oil change. Occasional dying: Change the fuel filter. Not the vapor separator (although you should change that also if it hasn't been done for a while), but the fuel filter which is mounted on a plate under the car near the gas tank. This guy is often forgotten and can be the cause of the car dying and then re-starting okay after a short time. Find a copy of How to Keep Your Subaru Alive (2nd edition). A bit quirky but useful for a first-time owner of an early EA81 Subaru. There's a pdf version floating around the USMB, but I prefer a hard copy version. After that, a better manual is the Factory Service Manual re-write by Robert Bentley. It covers early Subarus up to 1984 but there's little differernce between '84 and your '85. I can get you an ISBN number on the Bentley manual. Ebay or Amazon is a good source for both the HTKYSA and Bentley books. Don't spend more than $20 for the HTKYSA and the Bentley book can be pricey (up to $50) and is worth it; I was fortunate and scored mine for under $20 a few years ago. Clicking axles: A cheap fix is to try and find a decent set in a junkyard; all the early EA81 cars are the same for all practical purposes. A pull a part yard is great for learning what NOT to do with your car. Practice in removing an axle is usefull and if you break something, you can go to another car in the yard. MWE in Colorado is the best source for rebuilt axles (Search). A bit daunting to do your first one, but there a decent write-up in the USRM. Ignition lock: Find a similar EA81 in the junkyard and pull the ignition lock (maybe the entire steering column if it's easier) and the door locks for both doors. The door lock on the passenger side will have the keycode and most decent locksmiths (some dealers) will be able to cut you a master key that will fit both doors and ignition. After that you can cut duplicates more cheaply. Edited June 24, 2010 by edrach Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted June 24, 2010 Share Posted June 24, 2010 I drove mine 100 miles home from where I purchased it and it only dies once, then started back up 5 minutes later and drove the rest of the way home. before I changed the distributor it would only go 1 or 3 miles then die. Sounded like it was either starving for fuel or choking on it and would lurch and jerk. Shut it down for a few minutes and then it would take off again for a few miles.Sounds like a clogged fuel filter to me. Try that first before replacing the distributor. Distributors don't usually fail like you describe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted June 24, 2010 Share Posted June 24, 2010 1. Guy said it needs a trans mount (kinda hard to get into reverse) would this cause such a problem? Firstly, check the clutch adjustment. If the clutch doesn't dis-engage completely, it will be hard to get into reverse (and first gear if it's really badly out of adjustment). Secondly, it could be the transmission mount, but the shift linkage could be worn or out of adjustment. If the transmission mount looks okay, go for the linkage bushings or adjustment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted June 24, 2010 Share Posted June 24, 2010 1st, always listen to Ed 2nd, http://www.worldwidecm.com/HTKYSA.pdf 3rd, if your axles' boots are intact and you just want them to shut up for a while, try switching them between right/left; this will mean the axles will spin backwards compared to before you switched them and it might quiet them down. It might also just waste a few hours of your time though 4th, post some pics! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2manetoys Posted June 24, 2010 Share Posted June 24, 2010 Sounds like a clogged fuel filter to me. Try that first before replacing the distributor. Distributors don't usually fail like you describe. So far I've replace the Fuel filter (between the door & driver's rear tire underneath) , evaporator filter (under the hood next to the firewall on the Driver's side), coil, and now the distributor (used). I'm in the middle of replacing the seats with seats from a Legacy with the height adjustment (which is making it a mild PITA due to the brackets for the height adjustment), but once I get them back in, I'll take it for a cruise and see how far I get. The only 2 things left that I can think of since I'm getting fuel and fire at least for a while is that maybe the second barrel isn't opening on the carb correctly, which means I need to rebuild / replace (upgrade to Weber) the carb or the Fuel pump is not staying on and I might need to check the wires on it or replace it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimm Posted June 24, 2010 Author Share Posted June 24, 2010 (edited) Well, heres some Images of my ute Its really clean for a BRAT to be honest. I am trying to decide whether to fix the engine thats in it, or just go all out and buy a JDM WRX-STI engine with 270 hp and low miles. (I 'ave this sick fantasy of toatally spanking the hondas and muscle cars round these parts in a sand/road BRAT monster ) Any input on the difficulty of swapping in such a engine? I 'ave round a grand or so USD to put towards it I suppose. Eh, can always go back to work too if need i must What I seen when I arrived at its prior residence, sitting in the yard all charming-like, and beggin' for a grill/headlight bezel. Shes really clean to be honest; next to spotless really (with the petite exception of needing a new tailgate due to bullet holes weathering it out) Interior isnt perfect, but Ive seen worse. Dash is cracked of course. Yours truly and the ute; it was purchased and loaded in a twinkling Got it home and didnt waste a second; fixed the grill and headlight bezel (picked both up for free off a wagon on the way home ), and took the topper off for the summer months and to ease the refreshing process. Also replaced the shifter console whatyoumaycallit. Anyhow, hope yall enjoy the pics And any help/info on my engine and pondering my next step is much appreciated... Thanks, -Grimm Edited June 24, 2010 by Grimm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2manetoys Posted June 24, 2010 Share Posted June 24, 2010 Check the Retrofitting forum for advise about the Engine swap, but if what I've read is correct (and I'm going from memory on what I read, not questioning the accuracy of the info), the EJ with the DOHC is dang near impossible, but the Siingle Overhead Cam EJ20 has been done several times and a Good write up is in the Retrofitting section. Hardest part of the EJ20 or 22 swap is the wiring from what I understand. depends on your skill level and mechanical know how as to how hard it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimm Posted June 25, 2010 Author Share Posted June 25, 2010 When you said new distributor, Could I perhaps get away with a new cap and roller setup? Or must I replace the whole show? Also about to skip on across town to look at some tyres and pick up a fuel filer, a can of rislone to 3 qts. 20w50 oil. What kind of oil should i run? I usually run either castrol gtx full syn, or mobile one full syn. Always been a full synthetic kinda chap myself Just for the record, my little holiday up to silver lake was cut short about an hour from here, as the brakes in my RV decided to fail in the virginia mountains! Fortunately I was pulling into a gas station so I wasnt killed or anything of the sort Anyways, any help much appreciated, Thanks, -Grimm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 For starters, go with dino oil. You're just trying to clean out the engine right now. I'm a real fan of the Chevron oil; available almost anywhere and much less expensive than synthetic. I used to be a fan of Castrol, but dropped it in favor of the Chevron when I found it burned off faster in my older cars. I like to stay away from Pennzoil. Oil is always a personal choice, but I have a real problem dropping synthetic into an engine that was built before synthetic oils became poplular. Start with the distributor cap and rotor for now. You can always use it later if you find you need to replace the distributor. Subaru installed two makes of distributor: Hitachi and Nippon Denso. I don't think there's a real difference, but I've always felt the Hitachi version was the better of the two. Seems simpler to me (but that's probably because I'm used to them as opposed to the ND version). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2manetoys Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 Per GDs recommendation I'm trying a used complete distributor to see if that was the problem. I should have a Weber Carb on the way (Thanks renob!) that I'll be adding to the mix. Hope to have the seats in by Monday and I'll LYK if the Disty was the problem. Glad you weren't hurt in the Brakes incident on your RV. So where are you originally from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MysteriousXTC Posted June 27, 2010 Share Posted June 27, 2010 Awesomeness, welcome to the subaru family... Looks like a nice garage you got, I'm gonna have to come over and help wrench on it ... Seriously though stay in touch and let me know if you need any help with anything... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimm Posted June 28, 2010 Author Share Posted June 28, 2010 Heck yea bro. Should set up a wheeling trip or something soon. Maybe get the Nc members together and take a holiday out to Uwharrie or some place you can drive on the beach Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MysteriousXTC Posted June 28, 2010 Share Posted June 28, 2010 Looks like the wagon is getting sold this week, we shall see though... Maybe I should get my STI onto a beach... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimm Posted July 2, 2010 Author Share Posted July 2, 2010 Well... Still isnt running quite right :-\ Ive replaced the: Fuel filters (both) Drained the gas tank and put in some fresh gas Plugs Wires Oil (with rislone) Used carb cleaner and it didnt really help. Took the air cleaner off to see if it was choking it up, but that wasnt it Checked the distributor and it seems just fine. No play'wobbing at all... My oil pressure sits at around 22Psi when warm. Temp is steady just above center mark. Not quite sure whats causing the issue. I am considering replacing the fuel pump to be honest. Other thought is it may be the carburetor. Fellow up at the local service stop recommended a valve adjustment lol Any suggestions chaps? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted July 2, 2010 Share Posted July 2, 2010 25 year old Hitachi carburetor? Wait for the weber before you spend too much money trying to fix the Hitachi. Have you checked the timing and the vacuum advance? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimm Posted July 4, 2010 Author Share Posted July 4, 2010 I actually didnt suspect it so i didnt, but I am not seasoned when it comes to subarus, lol I dont think its the timing though. It idles like a champ and also drives well then it decides to start skipping I just put a fuel pump on it and that didnt help at all (although throttle response is slightly better) Does anyone have a good diagram of the intake/fuel system? I have the pdf version of HTKYSA and there arent many pictures I tend to be more of the picture learned kinda chap. Another idea I had was it may quite possibly be a hose in the fuel tank? Im nearly stumped fellows :-\ I just dont want to keep dumping money into it to only find its something worse. My mustang threw a rod last night, so Ill have to tidy up that little mess of a situation now too Eh, I reckon it could be viewed optimistically as well. I have reason to build the engine up now I suppose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2manetoys Posted July 4, 2010 Share Posted July 4, 2010 Here's a digital copy of the 83 Factory Service Manual. 1983 FSM Good Luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpholz Posted July 5, 2010 Share Posted July 5, 2010 did it sit for awhile? could be a gummed up tank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durania Posted July 5, 2010 Share Posted July 5, 2010 I'm loving it. Same color as my old BRAT I sold a couple years ago. You may want to put the camper back on. It kept my BRAT SOOO much cooler in the summer months. Need MOAR pictures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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