kirbykirb Posted June 26, 2010 Share Posted June 26, 2010 So, my legacy is a bit from 140k, but I want to work a list of what to replace in the next week or so.... Basically just assume everything is OEM what has been done though is timing belt, oil change.. normal fluid changes, etc.. Anyway heres my list: Knock sensor Valve Cover gasket (maybe, inspected one bottom no leaking so we'll see...) Spark Plugs Spark Wires Oil change. Rotors/Pads Brakes. Thermostat... Coolant Temp sensor Temp Sender sensor (for gauge.) What else what else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durania Posted June 26, 2010 Share Posted June 26, 2010 Timing belt and tensioner Water pump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted June 26, 2010 Share Posted June 26, 2010 Need more information to offer any meaningful help--what year Legacy? What transmission? CEL on? Any stored codes? Maintenance history? Are you sure you need the sensors (knock, ECTS and Gauge Sender)? When you do (or did?) the timing belt it's usually prudent, at your mileage, to replace the water pump. Also reseal the oil pump, perhaps put in new cam and crank seals. And check idlers, replace if necessary. For plugs I'd strongly recommend NGK, for wires Subaru OEM. Don't forget filters--oil, fuel and air. New PCV valve and clean the hoses leading to it. Let us know & good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirbykirb Posted June 26, 2010 Author Share Posted June 26, 2010 (edited) Need more information to offer any meaningful help--what year Legacy? What transmission? CEL on? Any stored codes? Maintenance history? Are you sure you need the sensors (knock, ECTS and Gauge Sender)? When you do (or did?) the timing belt it's usually prudent, at your mileage, to replace the water pump. Also reseal the oil pump, perhaps put in new cam and crank seals. And check idlers, replace if necessary. For plugs I'd strongly recommend NGK, for wires Subaru OEM. Don't forget filters--oil, fuel and air. New PCV valve and clean the hoses leading to it. Let us know & good luck. 96' Legacy EJ25D with the special pistons . Made in 95', sold as 96 model year, fun fun fun. I'm replacing the guage senders/temp sensor because one of them is faulty; my fans don't turn on if the AC is off; and the dummy guage in the instrument clusters goes high; but the second I turn on AC the fans kickon and the needle falls falls falls. . So since I think it could be the gauge sender; I'm going to replace the other one. Knock sensor, sometimes I hear pinging; and my timing gets retarded. Check engine light isn't on now; but here and there the one for a knock sensor comes on and retards timing and makes driving no fun. . So going to swap in one. Their expensive :|. And I think mine may be cracked from age/heat. Time for change. The other stored code I saw was cat inefficency, could be o2 sensors I guess,, may decide to change them.. prolly should since it's most likley original so yeah thats added to the list, two of them. . Waterpump; I'm not sure if it's been replaced but I assume it has for now, but you're right I should investgate it. just don't want to diy' timing belt stuff (since it runs on the belt..) as for the oil pump; is it removable behind the timing belt cover? (doesn't require engine disassembly?) since that should be replaced too (not just the seal.) As for the cam/crank seals, are those internal on the engine or are they accessible outside? oil filter- oil change was accounted for fuel filter - was in mind, not paper. need to change, it's original. air filter - eh inspected it, fine. As for pcv valve, theres a diy there? Edited June 26, 2010 by kirbykirb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuBrat84 Posted June 26, 2010 Share Posted June 26, 2010 (edited) Oil + Filter Change every 2-5k miles depending on your driving habits and climate. Air filter as needed 10-20k miles. Fuel Filter ever 30k at the MOST. PCV Valve is very simple it's right there on the intake manifold. Do it every time you do the fuel filter.. helps to clean the connecting tubes as well. ($7-20) Spark plugs (NGK PFR5B-11) Are good for 50-60k $10-15 a PIECE. (MUST HAVE!) Spark Plug Wires (Genuine Subaru!) Are probably good for every other plug change.. but might as well do them. ($50-100 depending on where you get them.) Serpentine Belts as needed 30-100k miles.. If you start to see cracking in the ribs it's time to change those babies! Timing Belts / Tensioners / Pulleys / Water Pump / Thermostat every 60-100k. I think that pretty much covers routine maintenance. I'm sure if I missed anything someone will chime in. Edited June 26, 2010 by SuBrat84 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirbykirb Posted June 26, 2010 Author Share Posted June 26, 2010 Oil + Filter Change every 2-5k miles depending on your driving habits and climate. Air filter as needed 10-20k miles. Fuel Filter ever 30k at the MOST. PCV Valve is very simple it's right there on the intake manifold. Do it every time you do the fuel filter.. helps to clean the connecting tubes as well. ($7-20) Spark plugs (NGK PFR5B-11) Are good for 50-60k $10-15 a PIECE. (MUST HAVE!) Spark Plug Wires (Genuine Subaru!) Are probably good for every other plug change.. but might as well do them. ($50-100 depending on where you get them.) Serpentine Belts as needed 30-100k miles.. If you start to see cracking in the ribs it's time to change those babies! Timing Belts / Tensioners / Pulleys / Water Pump / Thermostat every 60-100k. I think that pretty much covers routine maintenance. I'm sure if I missed anything someone will chime in. Yeah, need platinum plugs. 60$ on sparkplugs, hahaha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted June 26, 2010 Share Posted June 26, 2010 Waterpump; I'm not sure if it's been replaced but I assume it has for now, but you're right I should investgate it. just don't want to diy' timing belt stuff (since it runs on the belt..) as for the oil pump; is it removable behind the timing belt cover? (doesn't require engine disassembly?) since that should be replaced too (not just the seal.) The water pump probably hasn't been done. Most shops as well as the dealer don't do them until they fail. Same goes for the tensioner and idler bearings. At your mileage - if you are unsure you should do them. Oil pump's basically last the life of the engine. It should be removed and the bolts on the back cover checked for tightness though. Yes it is accesible with the timing belt removed. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirbykirb Posted June 26, 2010 Author Share Posted June 26, 2010 The water pump probably hasn't been done. Most shops as well as the dealer don't do them until they fail. Same goes for the tensioner and idler bearings. At your mileage - if you are unsure you should do them. Oil pump's basically last the life of the engine. It should be removed and the bolts on the back cover checked for tightness though. Yes it is accesible with the timing belt removed. GD Alrght, good to know... I don't wish to dive into doing resetting the timing for my subie (really scared I'll not align the heads to be TDC..and BOOM.)... But yeah oil pump is one thing I also want to replace because I know it hasn't been replaced in the life of the engine and at 140K (and we use 200K for engine life.) it's about 70% there.. :| ouchie, and most engine problems occur up in the higher 200k+ range because of lack of oil/lubricaation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuBrat84 Posted June 26, 2010 Share Posted June 26, 2010 I may have missed it. Did you say what year yours is? I think the only interference engines Subaru made were the 97-99 2.5l. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirbykirb Posted June 26, 2010 Author Share Posted June 26, 2010 I may have missed it. Did you say what year yours is? I think the only interference engines Subaru made were the 97-99 2.5l. Mines interference, 95/96' EJ25D. Special pistons included. . Also, the 96+ 2.2L EJ22s also became interference... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr.b Posted June 26, 2010 Share Posted June 26, 2010 those caty codes don't lie brother, save the money from the o2 sensors, and just get a new caty when she kicks the bucket. I have had good luck removing o2 sensors without damaging them. But new ones will help with the gas mileage, if you get good mileage now, you may want to skip them. have fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted June 27, 2010 Share Posted June 27, 2010 The oil pump will not have any appreciable wear - they are almost never replaced. 140k is nothing - it will go 300k on the original oil pump. Don't worry yourself about replacing that. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirbykirb Posted June 27, 2010 Author Share Posted June 27, 2010 those caty codes don't lie brother, save the money from the o2 sensors, and just get a new caty when she kicks the bucket. I have had good luck removing o2 sensors without damaging them. But new ones will help with the gas mileage, if you get good mileage now, you may want to skip them. have fun! Heh I wish I got good gas mileage now. I get around 18/20 city and 26/28 highway, it's about average, and I'm sure their original from 96' so time to replace . not a big deal just some extra $$$$ as always. And oil pump, alright won't mess with that. Just it's an essential part so since I'd be doing the waterpump/resetting timing, thought I'd get that clear up.. gunk, grease and 15 years of hell is never good on one of the most cruicial parts of teh car! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted June 27, 2010 Share Posted June 27, 2010 Heh I wish I got good gas mileage now. I get around 18/20 city and 26/28 highway, it's about average, 96 ej25 needs higher octane gas. that might cure your pinging. i would address the things you need now, or the things that will prevent engine damage, like all t belt components. then work through what you want and preventive maintenance, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirbykirb Posted June 27, 2010 Author Share Posted June 27, 2010 96 ej25 needs higher octane gas. that might cure your pinging. i would address the things you need now, or the things that will prevent engine damage, like all t belt components. then work through what you want and preventive maintenance, I've been using 93 octane, it helps but if I put the car to the pedal max I hear it pinging, it's funny and def is knock sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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