kirbykirb Posted June 27, 2010 Share Posted June 27, 2010 So, I wish to seafoam my engine, more then just putting some in the gas tank, I wish to put some in the oil, and then drop the pan within 200 or so miles and then in the intake (not directly though, don't wana hydrolocccccck) What are your opinion of seafoaming? I'm planning on using 1/3rd a bottle with less then 2/3 gallons of fuel in the tank and making it smoke smoke smoke, and then 1/3 down the oil for a few miles, to get into all the nice spots, and then the the final 1/3 into the intake.. Hehehe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
'84 Flat-Four Posted June 27, 2010 Share Posted June 27, 2010 (edited) There are soooo many seafoam threads that you may not get the answers you seek here with your post. A search or following the links to similar threads provided below will serve you well. It has been done a gagillion times before and I think hydro-locking shouldn't be a concern (although I'm just a shade-tree mechanic so what do I know...) I've seafoamed both my 84 and 95 without ever having this issue. I recommend that you read and follow the instructions on the bottle. It is a great product, but putting it in the gas and oil alone won't make it smoke. Only through the intake will this occur. Seafoam in the oil is a matter of choice. Personally I only use it in the gas and through the intake (thru pcv and central vacuum hose in TB). For the oil, I use MMO as a substitute for 1 quart of oil. Doing this with religious oil changes did wonders for my beloved Subaru piston slap. Good luck and happy smoke-out !!!! So, I wish to seafoam my engine, more then just putting some in the gas tank, I wish to put some in the oil, and then drop the pan within 200 or so miles and then in the intake (not directly though, don't wana hydrolocccccck) What are your opinion of seafoaming? I'm planning on using 1/3rd a bottle with less then 2/3 gallons of fuel in the tank and making it smoke smoke smoke, and then 1/3 down the oil for a few miles, to get into all the nice spots, and then the the final 1/3 into the intake.. Hehehe Edited June 27, 2010 by '84 Flat-Four Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted June 27, 2010 Share Posted June 27, 2010 Seafoam does a lot of good, but be aware that it has a reputation of being hard on engine seals. I don't think I would leave it in the crankcase for an extended period of time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StructEngineer Posted June 27, 2010 Share Posted June 27, 2010 I only put seafoam in the gastank to clean injectors, and through the intake to clean valves. If you want to clean the top end, crankcase, and/or free oil control rings from their lands via piston soaking use Marvel mystery oil. If you put them side by side, seafoam looks and smells like kerosene and marvel mystery oil looks more like oil (smells like cough syrup) Case in point, I wouldn't put seafoam in the crankcase unless you have a really good reason.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirbykirb Posted June 27, 2010 Author Share Posted June 27, 2010 I only put seafoam in the gastank to clean injectors, and through the intake to clean valves. If you want to clean the top end, crankcase, and/or free oil control rings from their lands via piston soaking use Marvel mystery oil. If you put them side by side, seafoam looks and smells like kerosene and marvel mystery oil looks more like oil (smells like cough syrup) Case in point, I wouldn't put seafoam in the crankcase unless you have a really good reason.. Mm, alright if a few subie fans are mentioning MOO in the oil instead of seafoam, that is what I'll do then. . And yeah, 200 miles a bit much, I'll do a bit of brisk driving to get 10-20 so miles to allow the oil to flow through the entire crankcase and then drain it, clean pan, new oil and new RTV . Hehe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldgray1 Posted June 28, 2010 Share Posted June 28, 2010 Removing and cleaning the oil pan shouldn't be necessary. I've seen it mentioned several times on this site that removing the oil pan often leads to oil leaks. Someone with first hand knowledge chime in on this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
'84 Flat-Four Posted June 28, 2010 Share Posted June 28, 2010 +1 ^^^^^ it is not necessary unless you know for a fact that you need to reseal due to a leak or something else... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted June 28, 2010 Share Posted June 28, 2010 +1 ^^^^^ it is not necessary unless you know for a fact that you need to reseal due to a leak or something else... ditto it always looks like the oil pan is leaking but it is never the oil pan. leave it alone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirbykirb Posted June 28, 2010 Author Share Posted June 28, 2010 Removing and cleaning the oil pan shouldn't be necessary. I've seen it mentioned several times on this site that removing the oil pan often leads to oil leaks. Someone with first hand knowledge chime in on this. My oil pan already has a leak I believe.. right in the back of it... so going to drop it to reseal it with RTV.. might as well clean it you know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted June 29, 2010 Share Posted June 29, 2010 ditto it always looks like the oil pan is leaking but it is never the oil pan. leave it alone. it always looks like the oil pan is leaking but it is never the oil pan. leave it alone. it is probably the oil separator plate on the back side of the engine behind the flex plate / fly wheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted June 29, 2010 Share Posted June 29, 2010 it always looks like the oil pan is leaking but it is never the oil pan. leave it alone. it is probably the oil separator plate on the back side of the engine behind the flex plate / fly wheel. Yep. Odds are REAL GOOD the baffle plate/oil seperator plate is leaking and running down the back of the engine. And it's NOT the seal on the oil pan or the oil pan. You can't get to those back pan bolts without a lot of messing around, lifting the engine, etc. If youi're gonna go through all of that just pull the engine and fix the baffle plate. Do whatever other maintenance you want to, and re-install. Search around here for similar experiences. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirbykirb Posted June 29, 2010 Author Share Posted June 29, 2010 Yep. Odds are REAL GOOD the baffle plate/oil seperator plate is leaking and running down the back of the engine. And it's NOT the seal on the oil pan or the oil pan. You can't get to those back pan bolts without a lot of messing around, lifting the engine, etc. If youi're gonna go through all of that just pull the engine and fix the baffle plate. Do whatever other maintenance you want to, and re-install. Search around here for similar experiences. Heh, always looks like the oil pan heh... Baffle plate, hmmm.... damn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted June 29, 2010 Share Posted June 29, 2010 Heh, always looks like the oil pan heh... Baffle plate, hmmm.... damn. kirby, bring us up to date, what have you done on the car so far? how does it run? how many miles? i can't remember. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirbykirb Posted June 29, 2010 Author Share Posted June 29, 2010 kirby, bring us up to date, what have you done on the car so far? how does it run? how many miles? i can't remember. Basically, nothing much besides give it gas and a new transmission. Wasn't leaking when I swapped it in, but happened some time after I popped in the transmission, didn't even think about the other seals and such, smart me. Oh and the tires too, but with just 4k on them my new tires have outer wear tear. Alignment is off by one degree (so within spec) so we'll see. Besides that though, it hasn't needed anything not even oil change since I don't drive that much. so basically just wanted to play catchup, get all the parts needed for the big time items (but not the ones that play with the cars timing, e.g. waterpump; I believe it was changed with the timing belt though in the cars past, t-belt is very new looking; NAPA belt.) But I wish to do: Thermostat (going to order this week/next.) Knock sensor (ordered.) Oil change (filter locally, oil as well.) ATF flush/filter I did with the transmission swap so not needed. 02 Sensors (front&rear.) Rear driver speed sensor (need to fix it, someone cut the damn cable!) Brakes (rotors/pads) this one I may toss off to a mechanic for sake of it being done right. typical stuff for a car reaching 140k. So it'd be nice and nice. The knock sensor is giving me the biggest issue though especially since the car pings (even on 93 gas!) if I make it rev high, over 6k+ I can hear it. Plus it retards the spark so the car no go sometimes; even if I floor the pedal it goes as fi it was at idle. Headgasket looks new, I can see a bit of it peeking out on the passanger side where the head and block mean (but eh who knows what that means.) and other misc stuff. it's all within my diy reach cept the brakes don't wana mess with it. :| Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted June 30, 2010 Share Posted June 30, 2010 But I wish to do: Thermostat (going to order this week/next.) Knock sensor (ordered.) Oil change (filter locally, oil as well.) ATF flush/filter I did with the transmission swap so not needed. 02 Sensors (front&rear.) Rear driver speed sensor (need to fix it, someone cut the damn cable!) Brakes (rotors/pads) this one I may toss off to a mechanic for sake of it being done right. Thermostat - ok, cheap fix Knock sensor - if you need it. Oil change (filter locally, oil as well.) - always a good idea. ATF flush/filter I did with the transmission swap so not needed. - check in 30k, do in 60k. 02 Sensors (front&rear.) front is more important than rear and should be subaru, rear can generic / cheap. Rear driver speed sensor (need to fix it, someone cut the damn cable!) - easy. Brakes (rotors/pads) this one I may toss off to a mechanic for sake of it being done right. - if you can the rest of this stuff you can do the brakes, pads are easy and rotors may not be needed, but only 2 bolts each side once you have open for the pads. get a haynes manual or a better one and read up on it. you can do this and save 200$. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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