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I am getting a '96 legacy AWD from a friend of mine. He needed a work truck and I needed a daily driver, so Im trading my '68 chevy for his legacy. Few quick questions, How hard are front drive axles to replace? Also, it has a auto, im curious how much time and money it takes to do a 5 speed swap, possibly dual range as I had great luck with my old GL. Thanks guys.

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I am getting a '96 legacy AWD from a friend of mine. He needed a work truck and I needed a daily driver, so Im trading my '68 chevy for his legacy. Few quick questions, How hard are front drive axles to replace? Also, it has a auto, im curious how much time and money it takes to do a 5 speed swap, possibly dual range as I had great luck with my old GL. Thanks guys.

 

in theory it is not hard, search a little and you will find several post detailing it and a couple with stories of rediculous attempts to remove the axle nut. my stumbling block has always been removing the axle from the hub / knuckle. if it has some rust in there it can be a beetch.

 

the debate is usually over what to undo on the knuckle to have enough room to remove the axle. i prefer to MARK FIRST the upper strut / knuckle bolt and remove both. at re-install just set the top bolt back to your mark and you do not need an alignment. these are large bolts and take some umf to remove but rarely a problem.

 

others prefer to remove the pinch bolt / ball joint on the bottom or the tie rod end and swing it out of the way. but the pinch bolts are notorious for busting. i have never seen or heard of a strut to knuckle bolt busting.

 

 

use lots of pb blaster.

Edited by johnceggleston
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To address the 5-speed swap question:

 

It all depends on your skill level, time the car can be out-of-commission, and access to the necessary tools and work-space. There are detailed swaps online - read a few to get an idea what your getting into.

 

Cost will depend on a bunch of factors, so you'll need to do some research there, too.

 

But finding a dual-range 5-speed will be almost impossible as they were never offered in the US for the Legacy/Impreza/Forester. They do show up for sale on here and other US Subie sites, but don't hold your breath. The Aussies got 'em - not sure who else.

 

GL,

Td

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just a few quick questions. For one, the brake warning light is on. I know it has awesome brakes, but I figure I should try to figure out why thats on. Brake fluid is up to where it should be. Next, how can I disconnect the stupid door buzzer? I was cleaning it out listening to music and the ding ding wouldnt stop. Other then that, its a great car. Thanks

Edited by corvette6698512
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Drive axles are very easy.

 

Don't swap it to a 5 speed. The auto's are typically more reliable - the 5's have issues with the main shaft bearings and of course the clutch maintenance. If it's just a daily - flush the ATF every 30k and it will last virtually forever.

 

GD

 

+1 on don't swap to a 5 speed. With all the time and money, and down time on the swap out, you would be far better off to sell this car with the A/T, and buy a Subie with a 5 speed.

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So both the battery and brake light flash on and off randomly all the time. Today the car lost all of its gauges and then it wouldnt run any faster then idle. I was stuck, and when it did die, the battery was dead. Put in a charged battery and it worked fine. So im curious, what would cause that? Is there a quick way to test if the alternator is charging? Also, why does the brake light flash with the battery light? They both go on and off at the same time flashing randomly. Thanks guys.

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