Air tools! Need some opinions...

[1-3-2-4]

Question here need to do the rear brakes but I tried last night with a hand ratchet with no luck (hit it with PB blaster) My 1/2" impact wrench is too large to fit I think the control arm gets in the way.. would a air ratchet work for me? at least one that's rated for 100 FT-lbs?

 

I did buy a husky one that's rated for 65 Ft lbs but I might spend a little more.

 

I don't know if me using deep impact sockets might be the issue.. I'd have to check in the morning.

Edited August 28, 2010 by 1-3-2-4

[daredevil1166]

I use quite a few Harbor Freight tools all day every day. I rarely have one that doesn't stand up to the job.

 

My Snap-On wrenches and sockets definetly fit better than most any others I've had.

 

And I really like Snap-On's battery powered tools. Their 3/8 battery powered impact is fun as hell to use. Super light and I think it could twist my arm off.

 

Obviously you have an aversion to HF's tools. Alot of people do.

 

But this might help you save some money.

 

I have a stand up HF toolbox. Black. I've had it for almost four years and it works like it was new.

That would be a great way to make your budget stretch.

 

I had a Husky one before that.(Home Depot's house brand?) I returned it. It was terrible compared to the HF one, and 2.5 times as much money.

 

I won't go any further. I might get beaten by the elitist tool nazi's.

Edited August 28, 2010 by daredevil1166

[1-3-2-4]

I guess you are talking to be since I was the last post.. but yeah I have this Husky tool and yes it's a HD house brand and I own a few HF tools I own the 1/2" earthquake impact which I like but I'm stuck between this husky I just picked up or do I return it (haven't connected it or used it yet) and get the 3/8" air impact..

 

I have this tool here

 

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?jspStoreDir=hdus&catalogId=10053&productId=100678392&navFlow=3&keyword=hstc4005&langId=-1&searchRedirect=hstc4005&storeId=10051&endecaDataBean=com.homedepot.sa.el.wc.integration.endeca.EndecaDataBean%40367370f9&ddkey=THDStoreFinder

 

If it wont show search for HSTC4005

Edited August 28, 2010 by 1-3-2-4

[1-3-2-4]

bah I returned that Husky tool and went and picked up the 1/2" harbor Freight air ratchet.

 

So I'm having an issue trying to get to the rear caliper bolts on the rear rotors the impact body is too big.. the issue is the end links and the rear sway are in the way of the lower bolt and I forget what's in the way of the upper.. I don't know if a U-joint would work on this area It's soo close

 

[NoahDL88]

I have found air ratchets to be all but useless knuckle busters.

 

Try a 3/8 impact with a shallow socket, should fit in there.

[1-3-2-4]

I tried.. I might have to take out the rear swaybar because that's what's blocking be from getting to the lower caliper bolts..

 

Ideally I would use my impact

[GeneralDisorder]

I have found air ratchets to be all but useless knuckle busters.

 

I really like them for general dissasembly tasks. But they aren't impacts and have virtually no power for "breaking loose" stuff.

 

Their utility lies in their ability to remove and install faster than you can without the potential damage durring installation that an impact could impart - and they fit down in tight areas. Basically they are a time saver and nothing more since you could do everything they do with a hand ratchet.

 

GD

[1-3-2-4]

Well we will see what happens in the morning because of right now a hand rachet is not going to remove rusted stuck on caliper bolts.. and the impact is too fat to fit in it.. the best I can do is get half the socket on..

 

if I really have to I'm going to have to remove the rear sway bar.

[GeneralDisorder]

Put a 1/2" ratchet on it and smack it with a 4 lb sledge = manual impact .

 

This is how I remove crank pulley bolts - people are amazed that it's this easy. I swear people are just too used to all these power tools and specialty tools anymore - no one can think far enough outside the box to realize that our fathers and grandfathers didn't have that stuff and figured out how to get by none-the-less. . Once you commit to the idea that it *is* possible some other way - it's just a matter of finding the "other way". I do this all the time and frankly I feel it's what differentiate's me from my competition.

 

There is no situation that I can think of that a hand tool wouldn't work with the right setup. Might take half a day.... but if you have more time than money you do what you have to do.

 

GD

Edited August 30, 2010 by GeneralDisorder

[1-3-2-4]

I don't have a sledge so I used a hammer.. still no go.. as soon as my batteries are done charging I'm going to go try again

[GeneralDisorder]

You need weight if you want to move something. A regular hammer is probably not going to cut it. You need mass so you get inertia behind your blow.

 

It's force vs. leverage - if you can put a huge cheater on it and it doesn't readily move (unlike crank pulley bolts, and other nuts/bolts on rotating assemblies) then you can just leverage your way out. If it moves or there is no room for the cheater then you need inertia on your side - a heavy blow that has so much force to it that the fastener breaks loose before the assembly can begin rotating.

 

Sometimes you have to hit it many times. Especially with too-small of a hammer. Think about how many blows an impact might have to use before it would spin out easily. You could easily have to hit it 20 or 30 blows with a sledge before you would even notice much movement. That's just the nature of removing tight or stuck fasteners.

 

Have you tried heat? A propane torch can get it hot enough that it more easily accepts penetrants like Yield or PB Blaster. The cooling effect of the penetrant causes it to wick up into the threads.

 

GD

[1-3-2-4]

You need weight if you want to move something. A regular hammer is probably not going to cut it. You need mass so you get inertia behind your blow.

 

It's force vs. leverage - if you can put a huge cheater on it and it doesn't readily move (as in the case of crank pulley bolts, and other nuts/bolts on rotating assemblies) then you can just leverage your way out. If it moves or there is no room for the cheater then you need inertia on your side - a heavy blow that has so much force to it that the fastener breaks loose before the assembly can begin rotating.

 

Sometimes you have to hit it many times. Especially with too-small of a hammer. Think about how many blows an impact might have to use before it would spin out easily. You could easily have to hit it 20 or 30 blows with a sledge before you would even notice much movement. That's just the nature of removing tight or stuck fasteners.

 

Have you tried heat? A propane torch can get it hot enough that it more easily accepts penetrants like Yield or PB Blaster. The cooling effect of the penetrant causes it to wick up into the threads.

 

GD

yeah I need to get a correct hammer as well as a deadblow.. I haven't used my torch just yet I do have a breaker bar but I may or may not have enough room.. I'm going out to try now.

[1-3-2-4]

Ha got the rear bolts out with the impact I found a 1/2" extension what bolts do I need for to push the rotor off? I thought it was the caliper bolt?

[porcupine73]

Air ratches can be useful in general situations just to speed things up, i.e. when I R&R the auto transmission pan it is nice to use the matco 1/4" because it just makes it faster to get those like 18 bolts out of there. Ditto the timing belt cover. But there you have to loosen all the bolts first anyway in this rust belt area unless you want to crack the covers.

 

For air tools I really like my IR right angle die grinder. I probably use that the most of my air tools. I have an IR2131 impact I use a lot too, I really like it and it works well. I got a IR 1/2" air drill off eBay a couple years ago. I used it a few times, and I was amazed how much power that thing has. I have the Chicago Pneumatic 1/2" air ratchet. It's pretty powerful but yes it won't really break anything loose, plus it is too big to fit into tight spaces. I usually end up using my shortie 1/4" matco ratchet if I am going to use one.

 

The cheapie $5 air cutoff tool from HF I use quite a bit and it is lasting nicely. I got a HF 3/8" butterfly ratchet that I really like but the thing leaks air like crazy. Those HF small pencil like die grinders are nice but they leak a lot of air after a few times of use. I have some HF air staplers and nailers that are holding up ok but I don't use them too much.

 

I use a 4lb dead blow hammer on my wrenches all the time to break fasteners loose. Even ones that aren't too stuck it just makes it easier getting it broken free.

 

I've used an impact on the caliper bracket bolts before but I had to use a short flex socket and an extension to fit it back in there. The hammer smack technique is easier though I think.

 

And remember to get good penetrating oil on those caliper bracket bolts. Those bolts do get seized in there pretty good in the rust belt areas and they will snap off on you if you simply try to outforce them.

 

If you have the caliper bracket off, and the parking brake __released__ on the rear, the rotor should be able to come off. Now they will often get rust between the rotor and hub making them hard to remove. So if you have the two holes in the rotor you can put the M8 bolt in there to drive it off the hub. Otherwise if you aren't saving the rotors some hammering on the old rotor might be necessary to convince it to part company with the hub.

Edited August 30, 2010 by porcupine73

[Fairtax4me]

I had a Husky one before that.(Home Depot's house brand?) I returned it. It was terrible compared to the HF one, and 2.5 times as much money.

Funny you mention the Home depot box. We don't have a Home Depot close by but I stopped in one last time I was in Richmond. The Husky boxes are CHEAP. I could watch it twist if I pushed on the top corner with my hand. That's not gonna cut it for me.

 

Agreed on the air ratchets. Used a few and haven't ever been too impressed by them. You can crack some things loose with them if you have room to swing the tool, but you can do that with a regular ratchet just as easy, and not have the damn air hose in the way. Plus they're loud, even the "quiet" ones, and they're slow. Faster than doing it by hand sure, but if I can fit an extension and a socket into there I'll just use an impact wrench on it.

 

Which brings me to these... http://www.mactools.com/product/tabid/120/p-324708-38-air-impact-ratchet.aspx

An impact ratchet might be right up my alley. Anybody used one?

[1-3-2-4]

Forgot to post some videos uploaded from the phone

 

air ratchet

 

 

 

impact

 

[Ron G "tinker"]

i own husky now - a - days, started out with cheap tool sets and such but they kept breaking, then i deceded to buy a husky 52" box with new tools, then there pack of air tools...(die grinder, air ratchet, impact[works beautifully], and now they come with a paint gun now too i think...!!

 

anyway, i didnt lube my airtools for over a year and a half and blew a seal, i took it back, and they upgraded it to a bigger one! (not a single hassle)

 

also hand tools are lifetime warranty, and air tools are 3 year warranty.

 

anyway they sell a husky mechanic tool set at home depot, and a 52" box there, and the air tool package.

 

when i got mine it was about 850$ and havent regretted it