Crank pulley on AT--where is the access hole to lock engine?

[Kwhistle]

I have a 98 OBW. I remember reading about some access hole where I can stick a heavy duty bolt to lock the engine in order to deal with the crank pulley. Where do I look for it. If anyone's got a picture would be much appreciated.

 

Thanks in advance.

[94Loyale]

I don't have a picture, but the hole you're talking about is right next to the split between motor and trans. It's on the motor side, and halfway down. There is a threaded hole on both driver and passenger side. But the passenger side hole is much easier to find.

[wtdash]

Not the greatest pic, but it's just under the throttle body - up to the right of the black plastic cover he's holding, on the back of the engine:

[94Loyale]

He's talking about the hole on the side of the bell. The one you can thread a bolt into to lock the crank. Which is actually visible in the picture you posted.

[Fuzpile]

Instead of giving a biga$$ diatribe here look for a new topic above called crank pulley tool.

[idosubaru]

another method, that is very quick, is to get the breaker bar or socket with pipe over the handle under the frame rail of the car and then bump the starter. your new found "impact" - one click of the key and the bolt is loose, it's magic.

[Kwhistle]

another method, that is very quick, is to get the breaker bar or socket with pipe over the handle under the frame rail of the car and then bump the starter. your new found "impact" - one click of the key and the bolt is loose, it's magic.

 

That's how I was planning on taking it out. There was even a video of this somewhere. It's putting it back together that concerns me.

 

So if I got it right, I can just stick a long high-strength bolt through this hole (arrows)?

 

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[wtdash]

Yes..just turn the crank on the front while looking down thru the hole 'til you see the holes in the flexplate. Stick the bolt - if it'll fit- in to hold and then remove the front crank bolt.

 

I HIGHLY recommend using a flare wrench or even an 'easy out' type of socket so as not to strip those 4 darn TC bolts....12mm, IIRC. Treat them w/respect as they will cause lots of grief if you don't.

 

You can get a ratchet/socket on there and kind of wedge it against the side of the access hole for leverage - hard to describe- Depending on your dexterity you might consider removing the TB, which isn't that tough - unplug the TPS/coil pack/IAC, disconnect the coolant lines, mark and remove the throttle/CC cables, and 4 bolts on the TB.

 

GL,

Td

Edited July 13, 2010 by wtdash

[idosubaru]

i just use a long socket extension - 3/8" to insert through the hole. whatever you try, just don't drop it down there.

[johnceggleston]

apparently there are 2 holes for locking the "flywheel / torque converter. there is the access hole on top for removing and installing the bolts holding the TC to the flex plate and then there is a smaller "bolt" hole half way down on the engine bell housing which can only be used for locking the crank to keep it from turning during tightening. i have never used the smaller "bolt" hole. it sounds a little scary, what if a tooth broke off the TC? but others have used it with out issue and recommend it as a good method to keep the crank from turning.

 

comments?

[94Loyale]

That's the hole I figured he was talking about? I never had any problems doing it that way, it won't hurt anything. That's why it's there

[eppoh]

I just went through this on an Impreza.

If the engine is in the car and the intake is on, it is pretty near impossible to get to that timing hole cover on top.

 

I used the started bump method to loosen the bolt.

 

Then to tighten it, I cut a length of accessory belt and wrapped around the crank pulley with a piece of duct tape to hold it on. Then used a chain wrench with a piece of pipe over the end as leverage to hold it while torquing it.

 

I was a little concerned about doing it that way, but it worked out fine. No problems.

 

A friend is working on a crank pulley tool for me right now. With 3 Subies, it will come in handy,

[Kwhistle]

Thanks for all the advice. So if I got it right, I'll have to take off some of the things atop this access hole in order to get to it? Haven't had a chance to actually take a peek in there yet, but how much work is it?

[johnceggleston]

Thanks for all the advice. So if I got it right, I'll have to take off some of the things atop this access hole in order to get to it? Haven't had a chance to actually take a peek in there yet, but how much work is it?

 

the air box certainly, no biggie, and maybe the IAC on the side of the throttle body. this gives you more room but you will want to mark it before you pull it so you don't have to calibrate? / adjust it when you re-install it. i marked mine in 2 places so when i line both marks up it was dead on.

 

there seems to be a consensus that a specific kind of wrench works best, i'm not sure just what kind.

[twoblacklabs]

 

Something scares me about sticking a bolt down there. Too easy to drop it. Try a long common screwdriver. Under ten bucks at Harbor Freight. Rotate crankshaft to where you want, pull off access cover (hard plastic, just behind throttle body), insert screwdriver and pound a few times until it bottoms out. Try to rotate crankshaft counter-clockwise and the bolt should loosen. If the crank rotates, you don't have the screwdriver wedged in tight enough.

 

Rock the screwdriver back and forth to release the tension and pull out when done.

[Fuzpile]

I can't do this John. I have already posted I made a tool. It is 27 1/2" long and weight 5lbs.

It engages the 4 holes in the inner part of the pulley. It only requires anyone who uses it to clear those holes ( by drill bit whatever) So the 4 steel pins engage into. Into where the breaker with the stress on it holds it in.

I want you to take responsibility once I send it to you that you send it to another that needs it when you are done. I put up the origional postage then we may or may not have a break in the chain.