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Figures !

 

drove 28 miles out of town car ran great on the way up. but on the way back

Smoking like a Crack Head. and i swear the Temp needle did 50mph to HOT ALL THE WAY UP!.

 

luckily uncle Dave went passed and turned back and got us. left the 28 miles away. thermostat out and fluids drained.

 

next morning (this morning) went and got the outback. filled it up with water and i drove it back. stayed on C the whole way back and i ran it hard 60mph most of the way.

 

No smoke and no over heating ! WTF!

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The oil pump seal is the front mail seal. Don't go and buy two. The oil pump itself has an O ring inside, but that is easy to source. Make sure you tighten the oil pump screws on the backing plate.

 

As far as the overheating, you may have had a bubble in the system. Refresh my memory, were the head gaskets done. If not, you are probably looking at them now.

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Your problem may have been due to a faulty thermostat. I would not run without a thermostat for very long. Replace it with a subaru one and go on from there. Were the Headgaskets replaced with genuine Subaru gaskets. I have used "certified" gaskets only to have them fail in short order.

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Your problem may have been due to a faulty thermostat. I would not run without a thermostat for very long. Replace it with a subaru one and go on from there. Were the Headgaskets replaced with genuine Subaru gaskets. I have used "certified" gaskets only to have them fail in short order.

 

why subaru ? why not just any form local parts store ?. genuine i have no idea were to get one. i sure as hell aint going to cravellie the Subaru garage. they have attitudes down there.

 

as for the head-gaskets i have no idea. i didn't do them

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If you ever looked at the difference between a Subaru thermostat and an aftermarket, you would realize why only Subaru. They are one of the parts that you do not want to scrimp on. They last forever and very rarely fail. They will not leave you on the side of the road like what happened to you the other day.

 

As for head gaskets, they just aren't made the same. I decided to try a few sets of OEM certified gaskets because they were a bit cheaper. Well, after having to pull and reseal three engines, I will go with the experts on the board and say that the only head gaskets for the EJ25D are the genuine Subaru gaskets.

 

If it were me and the only place available sucked, I would go to www.subarupartsforyou.com and order the thermostat and headgaskets and fix the car properly. You don't want to get stuck. It sucks.

 

Good luck.

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this 2.5L is really Pi$$ing me off. when he did the gaskets he told me did the right way, worked for the subaru garage & had a buddy from the garage help with it. so I'm sure he used genuine gaskets.

 

i can order online. and i will next pay to get the thermostat. I'll ask previous owner if they are genuine gaskets.

 

the car did pick a good place to break down, just not a good distance. i swear these Subaru's have a mind of there own.:grin:

 

If you ever looked at the difference between a Subaru thermostat and an aftermarket, you would realize why only Subaru. They are one of the parts that you do not want to scrimp on. They last forever and very rarely fail. They will not leave you on the side of the road like what happened to you the other day.

 

As for head gaskets, they just aren't made the same. I decided to try a few sets of OEM certified gaskets because they were a bit cheaper. Well, after having to pull and reseal three engines, I will go with the experts on the board and say that the only head gaskets for the EJ25D are the genuine Subaru gaskets.

 

If it were me and the only place available sucked, I would go to www.subarupartsforyou.com and order the thermostat and headgaskets and fix the car properly. You don't want to get stuck. It sucks.

 

Good luck.

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When you say that he worked for the subaru garage do you mean the dealership or an independant shop that works on subs. If he is an independant, I will bet he used aftermarket. Ask if he ordered them from subaru or napa. If he ordered them from napa, I can guarantee that they are not the right ones. many mechanics are unaware of the different gaskets that these cars require. They will swear up and down that they are all the same, but I assure you, they are not.

 

Look at the area of the head where the gasket is. If you see shiny metal sticking out at the mating surface, you probably have the right gaskets, If you see a dull gray material, you have graphite gaskets and they will not stand up under the punishment of this engine.

 

Hope you really got the right ones and that all you need is the thermostat.

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The independents are not the only ones that don't know the story about the Subaru gaskets. I was at the local Subaru dealer in Butler getting a part recently and talked about the gasket issue when I inquired on how much they charge to change head gaskets. I was thinking proactively about my OBW, but $1800 is something I cannot afford to put out right now, or in the forseeable future for that matter. Hopefully, the Soob will continue to run like it is now and buck the odds. 88k and a rock steady temp gauge right below halfway all the time even in the 90s with the a/c going. The parts manager had no idea why they fail on the EJ25. He told me that he knew something about it but that's all he knew. I believe that he was serious. I ended up educating him more than Subaru obviously has.

 

As to the stats, I've used nothing but Stant stats in all of my vehicles for years and have never had one malfunction. I've even had a couple stand up to a bout of severe overheating without going bad as I couldn't replace it right away after fixing the source of the overheat. I'm real curious as to why supposedly they fail in our cars and what makes Subaru branded stats so much better. Someone makes them for Subaru, as does all the auto manufacturers, so what makes these so much better and reliable? Inquiring minds want to know.

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I saw where you posted that you put RTV behind the crank pulley. That is a big no no. You need to pull the oil pump off the block, check the backing plate bolts and replace the O ring that is back there. Use anerobic sealant andput the pump back on and you should be good to go. If it is leaking elsewhere, you will have to address those leaks with new seals. Take a couple of pics under the car and from different angles and send them to me mdjdc1@gmail.com maybe I can help you narrow down the point of failure.

 

Mike

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yeah i will take pics for you and send them.

 

-John

I saw where you posted that you put RTV behind the crank pulley. That is a big no no. You need to pull the oil pump off the block, check the backing plate bolts and replace the O ring that is back there. Use anerobic sealant and put the pump back on and you should be good to go. If it is leaking elsewhere, you will have to address those leaks with new seals. Take a couple of pics under the car and from different angles and send them to me mdjdc1@gmail.com maybe I can help you narrow down the point of failure.

 

Mike

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finally site is back up !.

while we were down i swapped an EJ22 in my Outback.

HPIM7376.jpg

 

its running on 2 cylinders ( 2 front ones not firing but are sparking ) and have vacuum hoses i have no idea were they go.

 

also the tube in the back of the engine whats it for ? and i have leak there to because i messed up the threads.

 

Please Help !

 

HPIM7385.jpg

HPIM7390.jpg

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Update:

 

Engine is running Great now. i put high temp copper sealer on the leaking copper tube on the back.

 

Cylinder #1's plug was covered in oil :confused:

cleaned it up and the engine seemed to clear on its own.

 

still have Check Engine Light. also the Speed-o is working and still working after the engine change :confused: used the 2.2L's Speed Censor

 

the Temp Gauge Doesn't Work. so i cant tell if it gets hot. i did however let it run for 45min to an hour Constant and threw Superior Heat.

 

Sofar So Good. just gotta few things to figure out such as the Check Engine Light.

 

 

-John

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You said something about temp sensor? It's most likely the computer isn't getting info from the CTS and so it won't run right when it's cold.

Could also be the IACV sticking, then when it un-sticks it will get the right air and run fine.

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