Timing belt almost broke 2.5 , yikes

[blaze]

Timing belt on my 98 Outback Wagon 5spd 2.5 almost broke.

Just pulled out of a parking lot when I heard a loud whirling (metallic) noise? Pulled over quickly, then had it towed home. Found out the cog idler wheel (with teeth) had come apart But it stayed on the bolt after all the ball bearings departed So after removing radiator, belts, covers etc. The ball bearings chewed up the pass side cam sprockets. Top one (intake) had one tooth chipped, lower torn up bad. So went to local yard pulled both sprokets, for 20 bucks Then 412 bucks total at subie dealer for belt, idlers pulleys x3, and belt tensioner assy job complete. Plus changed out slow leaking power steering pump with one I already had I was planning on doing the belt this summer.

This is a good example to change out the idler wheels when you do a timing belt. Lucky me the belt and wheel held :banana::banana:

[Olnick]

Good catch, blaze! And thanks for posting this as a helpful warning for everyone. Always check those idlers, especially the cogged one.

 

Here's one more banana for you!

[idosubaru]

dude, wow that's pretty awesome you caught it like that, crazy.

[NoahDL88]

I had an idler let go 1 year after a timing belt because I was too cheap to replace it, and of course, murphys law, 1000 miles from home and a cute girl in the car.

[WoodsWagon]

The cogged idler is under the most stress, so it fails first usually. I've had them come in with a flat worn on one side of the pully hub from how long it was spinning on it without the bearings. The teeth of the pully tend to grind into the head of the oil pump bypass spring cap thingy, so check that too. I also had one that the pully seized, ripped the bolt halfway out of the waterpump, and sheared it off. Car was driven home 30 miles or more, and the timing had only jumped 1 tooth. That was a mess with the pully ping-ponging around inside the belt covers.

[Fuzpile]

Man you missed the bullet! I was doing my timing belt stuff and checking idlers when a neighbor came by. One flat one had the slightest of play and the toothed one had no detectible play. I said I'm replacing the toothed one(and did 42$) He said "why that one" ('91 would know) Hear that? Hear the difference?Feel the difference? Sprocket baby is dry and it's a matter of time.

[blaze]

The cogged idler is under the most stress, so it fails first usually. I've had them come in with a flat worn on one side of the pully hub from how long it was spinning on it without the bearings. The teeth of the pully tend to grind into the head of the oil pump bypass spring cap thingy, so check that too. I also had one that the pully seized, ripped the bolt halfway out of the waterpump, and sheared it off. Car was driven home 30 miles or more, and the timing had only jumped 1 tooth. That was a mess with the pully ping-ponging around inside the belt covers.

 

You are correct 91 Loyale, the noise it made was the cog wheel grinding into the oil pump housing.

[rxleone]

Man you missed the bullet! I was doing my timing belt stuff and checking idlers when a neighbor came by. One flat one had the slightest of play and the toothed one had no detectible play. I said I'm replacing the toothed one(and did 42$) He said "why that one" ('91 would know) Hear that? Hear the difference?Feel the difference? Sprocket baby is dry and it's a matter of time.

 

wat

[Fuzpile]

Replying to the "wat" remark. Thinking he misspelled wtf until I see it's our couz in NZ . Means i'm an rump roast some kinda way. I stand behind both allegations. A sealed and lubed BB will wear to minimal amounts until one knows that it is too far. A dry bearing already has the marks of forthcoming disaster written on its balls.

[rxleone]

Replying to the "wat" remark. Thinking he misspelled wtf until I see it's our couz in NZ . Means i'm an rump roast some kinda way. I stand behind both allegations. A sealed and lubed BB will wear to minimal amounts until one knows that it is too far. A dry bearing already has the marks of forthcoming disaster written on its balls.

 

You're not an rump roast, that post was just structured in a way that pretty much made it impossible to read.

[Fuzpile]

Something to add; Timing covers. Mine were fairly messed up with most the bottom bolts' having lost the integral nuts of the cover. I made up some threaded clip things which act as a clamp at those lips. Started sealing the bottom with silicone but not too much. That is, I don't want water piling in there but Do want to know if a seal is leaking before the belt is contaminated.

Some just run without covers. No way. it is too easy to split the central main cover so that belt etc can be inspected without removal of Mr. pulley.