crazyman03 Posted July 17, 2010 Share Posted July 17, 2010 So here's an interesting question. My A/c isn't blowing as cold as it was before. Normally, i would just toss it off as a simple refrigerant issue.. but quick question first though. Before, i would hear clicking (I'm assuming relays) under the dash on the passenger side. Sounded like they were turning on/off the condenser? I noticed that when they click the engine would get a load like the compressor is kicking on/off. I don't hear them much anymore, at all even. Would this be because I'm low on freon? The compressor is still spinning. (not just the pulley, but the clutch is engaged). and when I press the AC button there is a load on the engine. -Justin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted July 17, 2010 Share Posted July 17, 2010 It would help to know what Subie you have. A simple check for low freon is to put the AC on and then pull the pressure switch plug off the dryer and jump the pins. If the clutch kicks in, you are low on pressure. DO NOT Run it for more than a few seconds this way. Look for traces of oil around the fittings and on the front of the radiator to check for leaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyman03 Posted July 17, 2010 Author Share Posted July 17, 2010 '91 Lego 2.2 4eat. would this drier be behind the glovebox? -Justin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted July 17, 2010 Share Posted July 17, 2010 Engine bay Passenger side strut tower. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted July 18, 2010 Share Posted July 18, 2010 can you get a pressure reading? either a set of real manifold gauges or the generic cheap-o throw away things from the parts store even? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyman03 Posted July 18, 2010 Author Share Posted July 18, 2010 i wouldn't even know where to start to be honest. I've never messed with an A/C system whatsoever. -Justin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyman03 Posted August 6, 2010 Author Share Posted August 6, 2010 what would be the best place thats not a stealership to get the freon recharged? i called "Go Subaru" in golden today and they quoted me in the neighborhood of 170-375 to recharge it. and somewhere around 700 to convert to the new refrigerant.. -Justin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samneric Posted August 6, 2010 Share Posted August 6, 2010 what would be the best place thats not a stealership to get the freon recharged? i called "Go Subaru" in golden today and they quoted me in the neighborhood of 170-375 to recharge it. and somewhere around 700 to convert to the new refrigerant.. -Justin If you are mechanically minded, its worth buying a set of gauges and a copy of the Haynes A/C manual. That will give you an understanding of what the pressure readings on the gauges mean. I actually bought a freon capture machine, dot3 tank and a freon sniffer. Great investments. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldgray1 Posted August 6, 2010 Share Posted August 6, 2010 Do you have a Firestone store or Pep Boys store in your area? For basic A/C service like charging, they aren't that expensive. Also, if you have an auto parts store near you, buy a copy of Haynes service manual Subaru Legacy '90-'98(I think). You can also order the book from amazon.com, too.There is a section in there that deals with charging the A/C. You really need to open the hood of your car and get your hands in there on some of that Subaru goodness! These early Legacy models are great cars to learn on. The parts to upgrade your refrigerant to R134A are not that expensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldgray1 Posted August 6, 2010 Share Posted August 6, 2010 Also echo what samneric said. The Haynes A/C book is good. Gauges are a definite plus, too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted August 6, 2010 Share Posted August 6, 2010 Wipe the sight glass on the drier and when the a/c turns on see if there are bubbles. There should be minimal to no bubbles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyman03 Posted August 6, 2010 Author Share Posted August 6, 2010 quick questions first, lmdew: you mentioned jumpering the connection, where is this connection under the hood? i looked in the area but I think i'm looking at the wrong connectors. All i found was a 4-wire connector? I searched for what it might look like. this?: Obviously with wires coming out of it? *if* my system needs to be recharged, why? does that mean that it has a leak? or simply that the freon has lost its kick? I was doing a bit of research, and it seems too even if i were to recharge the system, i wouldn't be able to even buy the stuff. apparently you need to be licensed or certified to even think about it. I also looked into maybe doing a conversion to r134A and seems that too i would need a licensed mechanic to do it. does this sound right? I was looking on different "kits" and found this link seems pretty straightforward (not only judging from that site) -Justin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samneric Posted August 6, 2010 Share Posted August 6, 2010 quick questions first, lmdew: you mentioned jumpering the connection, where is this connection under the hood? i looked in the area but I think i'm looking at the wrong connectors. All i found was a 4-wire connector? I searched for what it might look like. this?: Obviously with wires coming out of it? *if* my system needs to be recharged, why? does that mean that it has a leak? or simply that the freon has lost its kick? I was doing a bit of research, and it seems too even if i were to recharge the system, i wouldn't be able to even buy the stuff. apparently you need to be licensed or certified to even think about it. I also looked into maybe doing a conversion to r134A and seems that too i would need a licensed mechanic to do it. does this sound right? I was looking on different "kits" and found this link seems pretty straightforward (not only judging from that site) -Justin You should really buy the Haynes A/C book - they have a section on retro-fitting R12 systems. I did it on my Brat - bought new compressor and expansion valve and drier.... Problem is: r134a is not as efficient as r12 so it won't blow as cold as a system designed for r134a - no matter what you do. The freon won't lose its kick - the only way freon loses its ability to cool is if it is leaking out. Of course - the compressor might not be doing its job properly either. If you want to troubleshoot leaks you either need to buy an electronic freon sniffer or put dye into the system and use a uv light to spot the leaks. If this is the case, replacing the seals will do the trick but I don't know if you can have R12 added nowadays - it is a dying breed..... By jumping the connection, the precious poster was talking about disconnecting the electrical connector from the dryer and connecting the wires together - there may be four wires - two for low pressure and two for high pressure..... You do need to jump the right ones so you will need the FSM for your year to figure out what is what.... (if I rememner correctly the connections were horizontally opposed to each other) Either way, buy and understand that A/C manual!!! or pay to have it done! Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyman03 Posted August 12, 2010 Author Share Posted August 12, 2010 ok, so.. I put a DMM on the wires found +12 on 2 and +12 on the other 2. 1(+12) 2(+12) 3 4 I jumpered 2 and 3, and the clutch kicked in for a split second. no blown fuse, nothing. Just on and now I cant get it do it again. I went to the auto part store and asked if they had a guage to put on the system to measure how much pressure i had. (y'a know, to see if i'm crazy and i'm actually low on freon). Well.. they dont sell 'em individually. But they do sell them with a can of r134a :-\. Quick question.. The A/C worked great one day blowing really nice and cold and literally, the next day, it stopped. I feel there is something that I did to it that caused it to stop working. for some odd reason (don't ask why i had the wild hair to do this) i unplugged the clutch for a second while the engine was on. I wouldn't think it would've caused a problem.. but could it? maybe damage a relay when i plugged it back in? Right after i did that it stopped working, now that i think of it i noticed it the next day.. but i noticed it a bit right after i did that. I'm crazy arent i? -Justin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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