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I'm thinking this is VERY bad


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I'm referring to the fat chunk of block missing between the two cylinders. Corrosion doesn't bother me that much in comparison

 

N. Ursalia: I have no experience with JB weld - so pardon my ignorance - are you being sarcastic or serious?

 

- Erik Hosa - Tacoma, WA -

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Sure looks toast to me.

How long did you drive it with this problem?

Looks like the combustion was passing through

this cut out. Head gasket went

then the hot gases passing through the opening melted the block and the liners?

Odd very odd.

Wheres Qman?

I would like to hear what he says.

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Actually I didn't drive the car with this problem at all - only into my garage. I'm sure you old-timers remember Chewy/Matt - I bought it from him, and he said it always acted wierd since he got it from someone down in Oregon (if any of you remember, this is the car that had the 14" australian wheels on it... ) Thats a reasonable guess Skip - at least it sounds like it makes sense.

 

- Erik Hosa - Tacoma, WA -

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JB is pretty strong - And that looks to be about your only option short of having someone who can weld aluminium put some metal on there, and having it milled flat.... that, or use this block as your new jack-stand.....

 

I think personally I might actually try JB weld - what's the worst that could happen? Once it's fully cured it should withstand the heat - the pressure I don't know about. Might blow the gasket again. I would certainly use an old gasket if I tried this - would be a pitty to waste a new one on such an experiment.

 

GD

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BTW - I'm in no way badmouthing Matt - he didn't screw me over in any way to his knowlege (there was no oil in the water, water in the oil - so he assumed the head was fine... which it is)

 

Brian: the 81-stocker wagon GL (my lifted is the 82)

 

- Erik Hosa - Tacoma, WA -

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subaru brat- I could tell that was a joke but I think he was looking for a real answer here.

 

GD - mmmm nope that would not be weldable due to the fact that the liner and the block are both blown thru and so close to one another. and no JB cannot take the heat and pressures of the combustion chamber. used gasket? thats like using used TP to wipe your a$$. single use only.

 

I know some times its fun to try some backwoods enginering but let him get the proper information first.

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I think it could be welded - no need to weld the liner up - just weld enough aluminium back onto the block to file it down flat and be able to seal. And if you cinch a used gasket down tight enough it will work fine. I've used many old head gaskets without incident. I've also had them blow - it just depends on what shape it's in. Same goes for any gasket - exhaust gaskets are a prime example - they need replacing if they are bad..... nothing bad can come from a used gasket that works - it's only bad if it doesn't work...... I'm just saying that *I* would TRY it. Not that it will work, or that it's something that everyone should consider. These engines are tough, and very rarely do my "backwoods" engineering attempts actually fail. I'm very often pleasently surprised in fact.

 

GD

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Bummer, is this the motor out of the wagon from Matt? I heard it run after we thought the gasket let go. I can say that I haven't seen a Subaru engine do this. The sleeve is definitely gonna be cracked by the look of the seperation at the top. For the long term I would have to say trash it. 1800's are all over the place and much cheaper than any attempted repair would be.

 

I have one that should have a good short block. I should have it out soon. How much you looking to spend? You can get a shortblock cheap enough but then the expense of putting it back together. Is this for a driver or are you gonna sell it once it's running? A used motor from PaP may be the right move at this time. Email me and we'll work some sort of magic for this one.

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Should've spent longer looking at the pic, and more thinking. That's not the head you've got a pic of, it's the block (hence the comment about the heads being alright). Thought that chunk looked smooth enough, it should be there (hence thinking the heads were alright, when I was looking at the block, not the heads, hence the heads are alright, but not the block).

 

Oh, I give up trying to save face :D.

 

P.S.: Now that I look at it, it doesn't look all that smooth. Ah... oh, well. :D

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Am I serious about the JB Weld? Absolutely :). Fully cured, the stuff is amazing. My present motor in the 2000 RS had an oil seepage at a casting mark, which got the owner a new block and me a nearly new block (1400 miles). JB Weld fixed it like a charm. The guy who did the repair has gone about 35k miles on his stock car motor fixed with JB Weld. It'll cost you $5 for the JB Weld, and the worst that will happen is it will blow out over time. With that much surface area that, I doubt it will though. It's kinda 1/2 assed yes, but done properly, the stuff is absolutely amazing :). Get new heads if you can afford to, but for $5 you can't afford to not give it a try.

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I duuno about JD Weld...

 

Might work in certain applications, but I don't think I'd trust it for a critical seal in a "driver" type vehicle.

 

If you are to that point, you need to bite the bullet and think replacement. It's not worth screwing with b*llsh*t when you consider that your labor is 90% of the job. If you screw up and it fails, then you're screwed.

 

I would invest in a solid core to work with, or find a better car. Unfortunately, there is just no easy fix here.

 

Good luck, John

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:cornfuzz: :cornfuzz: :cornfuzz: :cornfuzz:

Now how the he[[ did that happen? It actually looks like it was done on purpose. And I'm not saying Matt did it, it just looks man made.

EA81 engines are all over. I know theres a couple in the Tacoma PAP right now.

dont know what they charge for one tho.

Give em a call - 253 588-1775.

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You will not find a chunk. That is aluminum that has vaporized. We took a Chevy race car to the track 2000 miles away, drove it a few laps and the engine wouldnt run good. Tore the motor down and found the same as that picture.

 

JB Weld is good for some things. maybe that problem. If you can find a good short block for $40 i would get that. Welding will cost a lot more, cuz then you need it machined.

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