Is it just my battery?

[rkrall]

I have a 2006 Subaru Impreza 2.5i. My car is sluggish, doesn't start right and the engine runs hard when I do get it to start. Is this all battery related or could there be another issue?

 

Last night I replaced the serpentine belt(s). Took it for a test drive. Everything ran fine. Then I had to remove the battery to replace my left low beam.

 

When I went to drive home last night car didn't want to start. We assumed it was the computer resetting itself since the battery had been removed. But it sounded fine idoling. I hadn't gone a mile 'til I had problems.

 

It idoled hard when I stopped, had no pick up (very sluggish even when I had it going) and when I pulled away from a red light the radio turned off.

 

When I got home I checked the belts and bettery connection. Everything looked good. Tried to start it in the driveway and it started every time, but the engine ran hard.

 

This morning it also started right away, didn't start as hard as last night, but the engine sounds strained and the car shakes a little while it idols.

 

The battery is the origional factory battery, and I don't have a way to test it yet, but the radio turning off and hard starts and slugishness point to the battery.

 

I'm just not sure about the engine running hard and the shaking. Is that battery related or something else? I've never had that as a system of a low battery.

[Rooster2]

As so often advised here, take your car to an Autozone, Advance Auto, or another auto parts store for a free of charge diagnostic of your car's charging system. This takes less than 5 minutes, with minimal wait time, and is done in the parking lot of the parts store. Don't take to the dealer, they will charge you appx. $75 for this diagnostic service, and you will have to leave your car for most of a day.

[edrach]

Battery is only active when starting the car. Once it's started, all the electrical needs should be supplied by your alternator. While you are at Autozone, have them check the alternator output also.

Edited July 23, 2010 by edrach

[Allpar Mod]

I recently had an issue that I shared in a previous thread that regarded the alternator not putting out and poor driveability and malfunctioning radio/gauges. Definately check the alternator and battery condition.

 

In my situation, the battery finally died on an off ramp stopping for a light and disabled the Soob after things got really weird. You haven't related that this has happened to you. The idiot light for undercharging never came on. It works again after replacing the alternator which I determined to be putting out 11 volts.

 

The OBW now runs well after the swap. I installed a pillar mount voltimeter to monitor the charging system after all was said and done because I no longer trust the idiot light. Gauges are much better than lights anyway. Subaru could have done their customer base a big service by equippng their cars with full instrumentation like most other carmakers do these days. Way too often, by the time an idiot light comes on and you realize that something's amiss, there's more damage than if you see a change in a gauge reading and can get to the problem sooner. A Sunpro 2" voltimeter costs like $14 at Auto Zone and a universal pillar pod mounts up cleanly. Wiring is simple. I'd highly recommend doing this for all Subaru owners.

 

I'd also recommend everyone not posessing one purchase a good quality hand held multimeter to do testing yourself. They are not difficult to learn to use and can be very helpful diagnosing several categories of problems. Just think of the money and aggrivation you'll save being able to find some problems yourself, and the satisfaction of being able to do it yourself also. I just replaced my digital readout Radio Shack one (much better than the old style analog meters) after over 20 years of faithful service. If my idiot brother in law hadn't dropped it a while back fiddling with what he shouldn't been while I was fixing my father in law's Chrysler, it still would be in service. Sears has good ones for under $30 and up in the tools department.

Edited July 24, 2010 by Allpar Mod

[Cougar]

It sounds like there may be a problem with the power getting to the accessories. Check the voltage getting to the fuses in the dash fuse panel and make sure that you see about the same voltage that is at the battery. Also check for any AC voltage across the battery while running the engine around 1,500 RPM. You should see no more than .1 volt.

[nipper]

Clean the terminals and make sure they are tight.

 

Check the voltage with the battery disconnected and watch for a drop.

Reconnect the battery and start the car. With everything on at 1800 RPM you should get 13.5 to 14 volts. If you do not then it is your alt. Dont let autozone or anyone test it as they do not always do it right.