987687 Posted August 22, 2010 Share Posted August 22, 2010 Both. SVX's were ODB1 until 96. They went to ODB2 for 97-98. I am wanting to keep my trans from my 99 forester and mate it to a 92 SVX. My trans is a phase2, and the SVX uses a phase1. This conversation is to try to figure out how to make a phase2 trans happy by either fooling the TCU into being happy, or using a phase1 TCU with a phase2 trans. Like every car in the US, the SVX switched to OBD2 in 96, not 97. There was a law that said by MY96 every car HAD to be OBD2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgrote Posted August 22, 2010 Author Share Posted August 22, 2010 Like every car in the US, the SVX switched to OBD2 in 96, not 97. There was a law that said by MY96 every car HAD to be OBD2 Fixed:rolleyes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 22, 2010 Share Posted August 22, 2010 (edited) oh okay, so it just switched the same as the rest, thanks. i suppose you're wanting to keep it OBDI? how about use an OBDII SVX intake manifold? wouldn't that alleviate some concerns (and create others ) ? then you could probably use an SVX ECU and TCU. i think i'd aim for everything OBDII SVX, with your "OBDI" long block and keep the forester trans, seems like that would be easy (as easy as wiring an AT swap gets anyway ) i did the same thing a few years ago. OBDI engine, OBDII intake, OBDII body. there were some trans changes in 99 - like the delayed forward engagement issue - but i think they're still the same electrically? Edited August 22, 2010 by grossgary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgrote Posted August 22, 2010 Author Share Posted August 22, 2010 If I could have found a ODB2 SVX, I would have. But, at this point, I have what I have. It would actually be cheaper to just buy a phase1 trans. If I have to go this route, I will. Although it looks like it's going to be possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 22, 2010 Share Posted August 22, 2010 (edited) If I could have found a ODB2 SVX, I would have. sorry, i tried to clarify but didn't. i wasn't suggesting a different motor, but a way to use the one you have. how about use an OBDII EG33 INTAKE? intakes are usually easy to find, people trash them all the time. SVX long block is the same OBDI and OBDII right, no difference? that's what i did - OBDI long block - OBDII intake manifold - OBDII vehicle. plug and play, which yours won't be since it's an H6 swap but that might make it straight forward and no messing with TCU's or ECU's. Edited August 22, 2010 by grossgary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgrote Posted August 22, 2010 Author Share Posted August 22, 2010 I have seen people look for the elusive ODB2 intake manifold and harness for months. If I run into one before I actually start the swap, and for a good deal, I may look into it. I honestly think it will be cheaper just to buy a phase1 trans. From the info gathered here though, it looks like I will need to do neither. It looks like it may be possible, and someone else is trying to do it right now. If he is successful, then I am golden. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 23, 2010 Share Posted August 23, 2010 doubt you'll need to since that other dude it working on it, i'm sure they'll find a solution. I have seen people look for the elusive ODB2 intake manifold and harness for months. these guys claim to have one for $50. 800-392-5595 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgrote Posted August 23, 2010 Author Share Posted August 23, 2010 On an unrelated note, I have read that with the proper exhaust, these 3.3l's can sound like a porsche. Do you think using OE porsche exhaust can aid in this? I may be getting FOR FREE a stock exhaust from a 996 twin turbo. Should sound niiiiiiiiice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted August 23, 2010 Share Posted August 23, 2010 Isn't that a rear engine car? You'll have to do some fabrication to make that exhaust work on a suby... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgrote Posted August 23, 2010 Author Share Posted August 23, 2010 More than just rear engine. It's titanium exhaust. If I can manage to get the motor in there, I can fab up some pipes. Biggest problem may be not being able to weld to it. How does one weld titanium? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted August 24, 2010 Share Posted August 24, 2010 More than just rear engine. It's titanium exhaust. If I can manage to get the motor in there, I can fab up some pipes. Biggest problem may be not being able to weld to it. How does one weld titanium? Pay someone a crapton of money to do it for you? You most likely need the correct gas and correct wire... By the time you buy all that it will probably be cheaper to pay somone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgrote Posted August 24, 2010 Author Share Posted August 24, 2010 HaHa. Looking at pics on Ebay, it looks like all factory connections were done with wide band clamps. It looks like the inlet and outlet are at a 90 degree angle. Maybe I'll do side exit through the body. I am ages away from needing exhaust, but I CAN'T WAIT to see these things up close. God, I hope my Dr bud comes through. This would be the crowning jewel of the build. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgrote Posted August 28, 2010 Author Share Posted August 28, 2010 Well, httrdd's runs and drives. It looks like the only concession on the trans is needing to lock it into 50/50 mode. Info on this is on SF.org. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eulogious Posted August 30, 2010 Share Posted August 30, 2010 Well, httrdd's runs and drives. It looks like the only concession on the trans is needing to lock it into 50/50 mode. Info on this is on SF.org. What the issue with the trans? You shouldn't have to do anything for the AWD to work. That mod is nice (I have it done through the modded TCU through the DCCD knob) but not necessary for the AWD to work... We have a link of it somewhere around here as well, infact I believe I did it and posted about it. Used the resistors and all. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=105077 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted September 1, 2010 Share Posted September 1, 2010 Info on this is on SF.org. link? sf.org is something about evangelical christians..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgrote Posted September 2, 2010 Author Share Posted September 2, 2010 link? sf.org is something about evangelical christians..... Yah, that is probably a site I would not frequent. My bad for thinking everybody knows about foresters. http://www.subaruforester.org/ Here's a link to the specific thread about the diff lock. It's basically the same info as here. There might be a little something to add though http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f89/4wd-demand-4eat-3091/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eulogious Posted September 2, 2010 Share Posted September 2, 2010 Here's a link to the specific thread about the diff lock. It's basically the same info as here. There might be a little something to add thoughhttp://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f89/4wd-demand-4eat-3091/ What's different than from what I did? Look to be the exact same, but if it is different I would like to know... Also, did the other dude having any problems with his trans when he got it to run? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgrote Posted September 2, 2010 Author Share Posted September 2, 2010 What's different than from what I did? Look to be the exact same, but if it is different I would like to know...As stated, I believe it is basically the same. I didn't read all 16 pages of it. It makes me dizzy after reading it for a while. Also, did the other dude having any problems with his trans when he got it to run?He said he's running with no problems. He asked if there was a way to lock 50/50. I have been hounding him a little to find out just what he hooked up of the wires running from the ecu to the tcu. Here's a link to his thread. http://www.rs25.com/forums/f145/t129706-h6-lgt-go-fast-project.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgrote Posted September 4, 2010 Author Share Posted September 4, 2010 So I actually got to work on the donor a little the other day. It took me 4 1/2 hours to get the motor out, working by myself. I also labeled every plug and tubing I disconnected. That is time consuming in itself. I will try to make some pics work, but every time I think I have it figured out, I fail. HEY, something's missing here! Oh, there it is. I didn't unbolt these parts of the motor mounts.:icon_eek: And to think, I drove this car home. Pic for no reason This is all of the tools I used to get this motor out. I only used the impact wrench on the exhaust bolts, but I really didn't need to. There really isn't anything special here. The only casualty was a plug going to the steering rack, and the timing cover bolts are seized. They crack the plastic around the back part when I try to unbolt the front cover. Now it's time to start collecting parts. I'm am at least going to pull the heads and have them worked out a little. It needs valve stem seals. New gaskets, w.p., timing belt, etc. Hopefully I won't need to get into the block. We will see when the motor comes apart. This may wait until this fall though. For now it will get wrapped in plastic and descicant beads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgrote Posted July 8, 2011 Author Share Posted July 8, 2011 After a long hiatus, I'm picking this project up again. I've freshened up the motor with new gaskets and a head job. I decided that my car was too rusty to bother with the swap, so I've been watching for a Forester from FL with a blown motor to do this to. I finally found one and plan to pick it up on Sat. or Sun. It's been parked for a few months and is very, very dirty. Now to get back to work. Has anyone else played with the TCU's anymore since I've put this down? There's a guy on RS25.com that got his to work, but he isn't telling me what wires he hooked up between the TCU and ECU. I guess I'm gonna figure it out on my own. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgrote Posted July 16, 2011 Author Share Posted July 16, 2011 I have run into a problem with my h6 swap that I need a little advice on. The rad. I will be using does not have provisions for a tranny cooler, so I'm going to have to run an external one. Since I'm keeping a/c, there is no room for it in front of the rad. I think I can fit something above the driver's side wheel well. My questions are: 1) How big of a cooler do I need? 2) Should I put a fan on it? 3) If so, should it just run when the car's on, or thermo-controlled? 4) Does anyone have experience with this? I like this style, because I wouldn't need a fan, but I'm not sure how well they work. I will cut a vent in the bottom of the liner to allow air to the cooler, but I would like to avoid a fan if possible. The heat sink type looks like it would be less prone to damage, but still wondering just how well they work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted July 16, 2011 Share Posted July 16, 2011 Transmission fluid is quite a bit hotter than coolant. So you really should have an internal cooler in the radiator. Most transmission coolers are designed as AUXILIARY units, not standalone. If an integrated one is not an option, you will need a unit with some pretty large volume, and airflow. Whatever you decide on, be sure to get a trans temp gauge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgrote Posted July 17, 2011 Author Share Posted July 17, 2011 I found a rad. with a trans cooler that will fit. It's from a 93-96 Chrysler Concorde. I got it all mocked up and into place today with minimal cutting. The problem now is that I won't be able to get it into place with the motor in and I won't be able to get the motor in with rad. in. I need to come up with a way to get the rad in from the top. MOOR cutting! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted July 24, 2011 Share Posted July 24, 2011 (edited) I've just read this whole thread but can't remember the reason for you using the auto other than the fact that your foz is already an auto... I say this as over here I've had the pleasure of knowing two subi's that have the H6 conversion, both are manual. I've heard many say go the EJ20G over the H6 as the H6 is gutless. What they don't realise is that they're running around in a factory auto H6 outback... These manual H6's are the duck's nuts! They have ample power on tap at any time you need it. I was blown away! Anyway, here's a write up of one of the fellas who did the conversion. Both vehicles ironically came from the same work shop at different times and have ended up in Victoria from interstate. Lucky me I reckon you'll get a pot load more from this engine if you mate it with a manual... My 2c that I thought I'd share with you, it is a conversion after all! *edit* also with the rack from the donor vehicle that has the plug that you broke, if it is salvageable this rack is one that gives you slightly heavier steering at speed to reduce floating from the power steering feel becoming very light. If you could shoe horn this into the foz it would another feature that I reckon you'd love. You'd probably have to change the rack and tie rod ends for it to work, simple really! Cheers Bennie Edited July 24, 2011 by el_freddo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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